What do I need to train? And how?!

What do I need to train?

Close your eyes. Think back. Why did you fall off your last hard climb?
  1. You couldn’t physically do the moves; even after a sit on the rope ==> you need to work on power and strength
  2. You could make the distances between the holds (do the moves), but you couldn't stick them ==> you need to work on finger strength and recruitment
  3. You fell off after the crux, towards the top, because you were pumped and exhausted ==> you need to work on endurance
  4. You could do all the moves, perhaps in a couple of sections, but you couldn’t string them all together ==> you need to work on your power endurance
And how?!

Power training options

  • Exercises that emphasise strength with speed, such as clap pullups.
  • Campussing [see moon training article]
  • Hard, short, dynamic boulder problems
Strength training options
Finger strength training options
  • Campussing
  • Maximum effort short power problems (1-4 moves)
  • Eccentrics (lowering with big weight) [see my video - #2]
Endurance (Continuity) training options
  • Low intensity climbing
  • Go for milage, avoiding massive burn where possible. 40% - 70% of ability.
  • 60-90 minutes continuous climbing
Power Endurance training options
  • Standard route climbing
  • Circuits (short and long resistance) [see my video]
  • Noshakes bouldering with failure in 5 minutes. 60 - 95% of your maximum ability. 15 min break.
  • Horst pullup intervals (5 pullups in 60 sec, repeat x10) [see Horst blog]
Core strength - the forgotten X factor!
  • I will have more on this in an upcoming blog, suffice to say that the one area every single climber I have coached can call a weakness is their core strength. You can always be better. L-sits, bicycles, one or two-legged front levers, bridge holds, swiss ball exercises, sit-ups and crunches, one arm presses with weights, the list goes on.
So now you've got a way to analyse your performance, and the options on how to train each element. The important thing is actually making a start. Get to it!