Here's the video.
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Hawkesbury 2009: Dose 5: J-Bay & finale
Posted by Lee Cujes Labels: Climbing Camp: 2009 Hawkesbury, Climbing ReportIt was Greek feast night last night so we were sleeping like Gods. It’s 3:30am. Not a creature is stirring. Suddenly out of the inky blackness…screaming, yelling! Piper races past me, “Get up dude, we’ve hit another boat!”. I’m still mostly asleep, and I stumble out onto the bow. Holy crap where are we? We’ve drifted heaps and have rammed another houseboat. The party boys on the other boat are still awake and nicely toasted. “Are we moving or are they moving?” They push us back with a mooring pole. “Where’s your lights?!” they’re yelling at us. Shit, did we forget to turn on the anchor light? No, it’s turned on. Hmm, no it isn’t. The penny drops. We’re out of power and drifting blind towards the flotilla of yachts moored 200m east of us.
Okay, don’t panic. The tide has come in and the anchor has pulled, no problem, we’ll just let more chain out. Click. Nothing. The anchor winch isn’t going to work without power. Motors on. I keep her pointed into the strong gusty breeze which has kicked up while we wait for the alternator the charge the batteries. After five minutes or so we try again. Three links of chain go down. Hmm. Time for a more aggressive approach.
Erik and Glenn start fiddling with the anchor winch. Amazingly they figure how to unweight it, unclutch it and get it in freespool. Smash! Well, we’ve just dropped ALL our chain. If that ain’t doing it nothing is. Has it caught? Are we swinging? Yes…yes…! Okay back to bed everyone, party’s over. We’ll figure out what to do in the morning. I was so blitzed on adrenaline it took me an hour to get back to sleep.
Sleeping. Gradual awareness. Please be good weather, please be good weather, please be good weather. Open eyes, squint. Sunlight. Yes! Up we get. Go outside. Man we drifted last night, how crazy was that?! Still no power, so commence the manual winching operation. Good training for Erik and Glenn. We motor back up to prime position in front of the main wall of J-Bay, scene of our climbing for the day, and drop anchor manually yet again.
I headed out the obvious traverse line of Neptune 21 and slithered back down a tree. Wet Dreams 21 was next and I psyched Erik up to go for it – which he did and just barely managed to slap his way through without falling. Killer!
Glenn had two shots – bombing down into the clear water both times. I never told him there was a little stingray in the landing zone. Sam did the first few moves before chickening out back to the ledge. I did Hiding Three Fingers 23 with its sinker pocket, and then scoped out a project which is essentially the direct on Neptune. The way I’d envisioned it was a huge campus move and I gave it a good lash, but fell about a foot short on latching the top hold. Not even close! Splash!
Our airport pickup at Brooklyn was due just after lunch, so it was time to get a move on. Would have liked to stay longer and work a few more things (especially that proj) but that’ll have to wait for next time. We cruised back and rung Mark who was to pilot the boat back into the marina. I think I could have done as good a job, because he crashed it pretty solidly into another houseboat during the docking process. She’ll be right Mark!
We said our goodbyes and dropped Piper at the train station (which curiously just happened to be opposite the pub) and headed to the airport. Upon check-in I convinced everyone to come with me so we could check in together at oversize baggage. I did my best to sweet talk the girl into giving us all a sporting goods allowance and share our overall allowance. We weighed all our bags and they came to 142kg. “So sir, that’s 2kg overweight. Would you like to remove the 2kg and put it in your carry-on or pay $16?”. Yeah, I think we’ll remove the 2kg. We scrape through without paying any excess. Gold!
So now we’re home. We learnt heaps about the area. There’s projects we all want to go back for, there’s things I want to bolt, and there’s fish I want to catch. Glenn said he’d never climbed that hard for that many days and said “Fretted Pom and Sea Monsters were the best climbing experiences I have had ever”. I’d call that a win.
Well I hope you enjoyed following along on our adventures. We’re always looking for keen climbers for our upcoming trips. Check out the trips page to see what's coming up.
Until next time...
Hawkesbury 2009: Dose 4: Eagle Rock
Posted by Lee Cujes Labels: Climbing Camp: 2009 Hawkesbury, Climbing ReportEagle Rock. I remember reading about this crag in an old ROCK magazine which made continual reference to the J-Man. This sounded pretty dicky at the time until, now, I’ve come to know the J-Man, and he’s about to guide us on his home turf.
Imagine a chaotic surge of monster surf fifty metres high. Freeze it, metamorphose it to sandstone and paint it orange. Here we are. Eagle sits right on the water. The water literally laps the base of the wall. There are some routes starting here, but most of them start up in the guts of this chaotic maze-like crag. A series of fixed (or hidden) ropes provide assistance, and stainless rungs have been placed at strategic locations to allow climbers to move about between the sectors.
While on the boat I’d quizzed Piper on the central line of the cliff which punches through the biggest section of roof on the main wall. I was expecting him to say this was grade 27. “Nah, that’s Antho’s 22, Sea Monster” he casually replied. Whaaa? My sandbag senses were tingling! Parts of it were dripping water, but the line was so bloody amazing looking I grabbed Glenn and we got to work. We could always back off, right? The first pitch called Floater was grade 20, and was a traverse line on crazy holds which kicked you back into pumpland. This set you up for the stellar second pitch. Perhaps 20m long, and overhanging at least eight metres, this line punched through the orange ceiling with the aid of a crack and an intermittent sidewall. Using bolts, cams, fixed slings, and pitons(!), I worked my way out through mind melting territory, taking the frequent super funk rests (e.g. ride the motorcycle, mega-bridge-the-chasm) between punchy moves. I can’t think of a crazier pitch of climbing at that grade I have ever done. I was in heaven. Glenn seconded while Piper the videographer gave encouragement and moral support. Even though he had two rests, this was a great effort given this grade is at Glenn’s current upper limit. That will be an experience he’ll never forget. Actually, looking at the guide now, I see that pitch is given 23! Knew my sandbag sense was spot on!
The final pitch was Glenn’s lead up a low angle, holdless grade 16 slab (Children Overboard). This couldn’t have been further away in style from what we’d just done, but it was a nice way to top out the cliff and celebrate. Woohoo, what’s next?
Sam and Erik both led their way up A Port In Every Girl 16, a black edgy slab, and the whole group adjourned in the kitchen (the boys have been busy!). I got antsy and went for the onsight of the short and punchy Fish Fingers 25, but had to settle with second shot.
Time to head back to the mothership for late lunch and relaxation. Wait just a minute! The Stiltskin is high and dry on a big boulder! Not a problem for the muscular strongman Erik, who proceeds to act as foreman and gets Sam to lift and push the boat off the rock herself. He’ll argue different ("I was holding the rope!") but too bad buddy, this is my blog. You’re outed!
It was mid arvo and there was still more juice to be squeezed out of the day, and I managed to wrangle a belay from Glenn, so headed over to try a linkup of The Gill 24 into Sea Monkies 23 for a bottom to top of crag experience. The blank vertical face of The Gill reminded me of a hard Frog Buttress face climb, with a start devoid of footholds, and lots of crazy moves I can’t even remember to reach easier ground.
Once I’d reached this easier ground I hooked a foot onto a juggy flake and sat on it for a rest, when it snapped off and sent me flying. There goes the onsight! Back on and I went through to the top. Shirt off, mop the sweat off, and time to continue up into the madness above. Sea Monkies is the mega classic three star route of the crag and provided excellent steep climbing which unfortunately got more and more wet as I climbed. Despite the shocking rope drag and epic swampiness, I managed to come away with the onsight, but only my the skin of my teeth.

Even by the time I got back to the boat after cleaning the pitches, I was still just a bit pumped. © J Piper 2009
Yesterday there were some sore muscles and complaining fingers. The rest of the group were also feeling it. Glenn was quite keen for some verticality after yesterdays cosmic steepness, so we headed over to the two pitch link-up of Starboarding, a 42m face route. There was not a skerrick of chalk to be seen, and I struggled for a number of minutes to read the crux of the first pitch, but eventually went the right way, crimping for all I was worth. The second pitch continues off a ledge onto a face above using the most amazing large scoopy pockets, then leading to an unrelenting patina-crimp covered face. Not one large hold to be seen. I thought the second pitch in particular was an absolute pearler! Thoroughly recommended. Glenn seconded with a couple of forearm explosions, and Erik (the big guy not usually known for his endurance…on the rock) made it to one move below the top before crashing. Awesome effort!
We were all pretty shagged, but headed up to the Crows Nest sector to check out the scoop of the century(!) aka Front Page News 22. This is a mega orange scoop reminiscent of those found on Taipan Wall.
I led and Glenn put in a sterling job seconding cleanly. There’s a right hand variant of Pete Weatherhead’s which finishes up a bit of a blank gap, so I jumped on this (Sports Page aka Sports Illustrated) for the second ascent. While mostly easy, I reckon the final move is worth 23 all by itself.
By the time we were done with this, we were quietly zorched, so retired to the Rumpole and began our cruise to Jerusalem Bay for our final day of climbing. As we pulled in to this deep water soling venue at about 5:00pm, the rain began to fall. What is it about us, DWS and rain? Ah well, there’s nothing for it but to go fishing. See ya!
Hawkesbury 2009: Dose 3: Crafty’s DWS and Flat Rock
Posted by Lee Cujes Labels: Bolting, Climbing Camp: 2009 Hawkesbury, Climbing Report, New RoutesWe woke to a grey morning, and commenced our cruise south to Crafty’s, arriving at around 9:00am. As we approached, Glenn said “This looks like my height!”. Piper winked at me knowingly. As we dropped anchor, a light rain began to fall. You’re kidding aren’t ya? All the photos I’ve see are of sunny gorgeousness and people in bikinis. With a waterfall coming off the right side of the cliff, we’d need to be committed.
It was a bit of a slow start as we waited for the rain to abate. I went fishing for a while (two bream on plastics), then returned to psyche up the troops. The wall itself, capped by roofs was dry, but it would be impossible to top anything out as the top three metres of the cliff was saturated.
The true believers (Glenn, Erik, Sam and I) boarded the Stiltskin and cruised across to the wall as Piper and Sheree settled down on top deck under the canopy. As we got underneath it, the true size and scope of the venue impacted on Glenn, who was forced to retract his earlier bravado. We climbed up the slick muddy moss and barnacles on to the starting ledge and dried our shoes.
The crew enjoyed the right to left traverse which gets gradually more difficult. After one false start and a downclimb (not a splashdown), I punched up Glassy 24/5 and sat at half height on the cliff recovering. Bets were laid as to the first person to hit the drink. I think most of the money was on me, but Sam bombed and the punters cheered. I finished up the finale of Piscean Passage 20 but couldn’t top out in the rain, so I psyched myself up and jumped from ¾ height, perhaps 10m up. Scary stuff, but I image you’d become accustomed to it after a while.

Team Upskill on the wall as the rain comes down. I'm in blue, high on Piscean Passage 20 © J Piper 2009
Erik, Glenn and me all tried the left to right traverse but all snapped off – the damp rock was greasy and slick. I finished up by doing most of Aquarius 22, but not the very top which gives the grade. The rest though were the nicest moves I did on the wall. Great cut-looses on juggy flakes. Then it was back to the boat for hot showers to warm up.
That afternoon, the plan was to cruise north and east to Eagle Rock, but we happened to get sidetracked along to way by a nice, smooth wall 10-15m high near Square Bay. Piper sifted through his notes and determined this was Flat Rock, climbed on 30 years ago by members of the Wondabyne Climbing Club. A line of lovely orange scoops was visible straight up the main wall, and even though dusk wasn’t far away, I grabbed the bolting gear and forged up through the bush. I managed to get the line bolted just as night fell.
Today we woke up to a thick white mist and near zero visibility. This soon burned off to a beautiful sunny morning. We grabbed the trad gear, jumped in Stiltskin and hit the crag. I raced up the new route, doing more cleaning as I went to create Flathead Second Cast 20, in honour of the fish I’d picked up yesterday. The crux was a dynamic throw from an undercling and incut crimp to a big pocket. The slightly shorter girls struggled mightily with this move and tried in vain to discover a ‘girl method’, while the monster Erik calmly reached through statically. It was a bit of a bloodbath for Sam who smacked the back of her hand on the dyno, and then proceeded to open two flappers.
The rest of the cliff had some attractive cracklines on it, so I racked up and reminded myself how to place trad on Mechanical Man 18, a Gladiator-style barndoory hand crack which came complete with a fixed hex and Half Hour In The Fo’castle 20, a fingertip crack corner which wasn’t in the guide. In fact, Mechanical Man was given 14 M1 in the original 1970s guide. Glenn bombed onto my green alien on both routes before topping out, and Erik was stuck with cleaning duty – “damn trad climbing!”
Once Piper had satisfied himself that he had pictures of every angle of the cliff for the upcoming guidebook, we cruised to Eagle Rock (wow!) and have moored in nearby Gunyah Beach. This is a gun night fishing spot, with us landing two hairtail, multiple bream and Piper getting stuck (literally) into some eel-tailed catfish.
Tomorrow we get to sample the jewel of Hawkesbury River climbing – Eagle Rock. Sweaty palms!
Hawkesbury 2009: Dose 2: The Bluffs
Posted by Lee Cujes Labels: Climbing Camp: 2009 Hawkesbury, Climbing ReportWhat I failed to mention last time is that our intrepid local guide Jase Piper rocked up complete with back brace. Yep, he’d come a cropper deep water soloing six weeks earlier and had been healing ever since.
“So Jase, you’re allowed to swim?”
“Well, the doctor said to do nothing.”
“What about walking around?”
“Nothing. Bed rest.”
“Jugging ropes?”
“…”
The Bluffs are some of the biggest and most atmospheric cliffs on the Hawkesbury. Due to the adventurous access, there’s only been a small amount of development on these cliffs to date. The left Bluff contains a couple of multipitch routes (which look pretty great) and a couple of projects. The right Bluff has a fully developed ‘High Wall’ which was our target for the day.
So after piloting the Rumpole close to the cliffs, we boarded the orange dinghy (dubbed the Stiltskin) and cruised through oyster leases to the little beach under the left Bluff. What followed was some epic steep gully bashing with Piper leading the way in his back brace and pack! It felt like mountaineering but with leeches.
After about 45 minutes we stood atop the left Bluff and began picking our way over to the top of the right Bluff.
We set a fixed rap line and abseiled down to a vegetated ledge where the routes start. The exposed position combined with the gritty rock type really reminded me of Point Perpendicular (which I love). Glenn, Erik and Sam all led a long grade 16 corner and Sheree seconded.
I blasted up the middle right flake route, estimated at 18 which Sam, Sheree and Glenn agreed was more like 20. I thought it was a classic with a balancy, technical middle section. Erik slapped his way through for the flash – nice!
The left hand flake route looked every bit as good, but I found this grade 20 route to be poorly bolted, with almost every bolt in a silly position, creating needlessly dangerous fall potential. The only redeeming point was that Piper snapped some great photos.
There was a middle variant which finished up a sustained face which looked good so I jumped on and enjoyed the technical climbing on pockets and crimps. Glenn put in an amazing effort to second this cleanly. I thought this was a hard and sustained 21, I’ve done many easier 22’s. The final route of the afternoon was the mega exposed arête of Fretted Pom 23. Situated on the bottomless far right section of the High Wall, you must rap down to a small ledge with an 80m clean drop beneath your feet. The climb itself is roughly 20m high and takes in some superb orange rock with big punchy moves to overcome sections of blankness between good breaks. I led the route, loving the exposure and positions. Glenn gallantly seconded, falling only in one place – top effort. Glenn said the anticipation hanging around on the belay (read: cold sweats) was heaps worse than the actual climbing itself, which was fun and absorbing.
We were very thankful to not have to walk down the gully of death, with Piper showing us a sneaky abseil descent down the left Bluff (2x 60m raps). (Tim’s project on this wall looks fantastic – get ‘er done Tim!). This did however leave us with a rather horrendous bush-bash to get back to the Stiltskin. I punched down to water-level which was covered in big rocks and mud and ran, jogged, slipped and bouldered my way back at top speed so I could get the boat and bring it closer to the exhausted troops. When I got back to the beach I found the Stiltskin high and dry, five metres up the beach. No worries, I’ll just drag it back. Fat chance! The poly hull is heavy as sin and I couldn’t budge it using my hands. A climbing based solution was in order. I clipped a short sling from my harness belay loop to a rear lanyard on the boat and did a series of fierce leg-presses to shift the boat, inch by inch towards the water. Once I motored back to the crew it was ladies first and we ferried back to the Rumpole for some well earned icy cold drinks, spag bol and cannelloni. Tomorrow will see us deep water soloing at Crafty’s – woohoo!
Hawkesbury 2009: Dose 1: Deliverance
Posted by Lee Cujes Labels: Climbing Camp: 2009 Hawkesbury, Climbing Report, New RoutesTwo days ago saw the commencement of the 2009 Upskill Hawkesbury Houseboat super trip. Glenn and Sheree Ferguson, Erik Smits, Neil Monteith and Kathy Dicker arrived at a property beneath the new cliff Deliverance, and were met by Sam and me.
While Neil went off on a mad new-routing rampage, the rest of the group went on the great via feratta adventure to gain the top of the cliffline. This was a good way to take in the sights of the area and get a feel for the rock. We then went bouldering at the great sandstone bouldering area on top of the ridge. The boulders here are smooth and windblown and slightly reminiscent of Fontainbleau. Every time I go here I manage to put up a few more cool things, usually involving horrendous mantles, and this time was no different. Glenn had never really done the ‘holdless sandstone mantle’ before, and by the end of the arvo, his shins and forearms were showing signs of wear. He would come to be thankful for this mantling practice later…
Yesterday, Neil commandeered Erik early to belay him on his two newly equipped projects at Deliverance. Chubby Boy sits next to my super overhung line Buck Yeager 25 and involves one of the more amazing mandatory dynos I have seen. Neil was flying through the air time and again to overcome a big section of overhung blankness, and doing his best to put a hole in his rope sheath. By the end of the day however, it remained a project. His other new route did succumb however, and after much power-yelling Drop Them Pants 24 was born, taking in some big spans between deep pockets, leading to a desperate tech slab. I managed to onsight this by the skin of my Magos.
Erik and Glenn both climbed Neil’s long Swampy Cow Corner 20 first try, and after I did the first ascents of the orange marble corner of Purty Lips and varied face and bulge Squeal Like A Pig, the rest of the group swarmed up them both. To assist with democratic grading, a secret ballot system was devised where all ascentionists submitted their vote in a hat. Purty Lips received 2x 17, 2x 18 and 2x 19, so a grade of 18 was locked in. Squeal Like A Pig settled at 19.
Dusk was not far off and some light rain was moving though, but that didn’t stop Glenn attempting Sea of Sleep 21, a link-up wall climb with endless slopers (thank god for that bouldering!). He topped out after struggling with one slopey layoff section. I decided to equip an easier looking long line we’d spied last time (dubbed Manta Ray) and managed to get it bolted and sent. As I clipped the anchors the heavens opened and night fell. Manta Ray climbs a feature not unlike Miss Kandy Kane at Brooyar (for those that know that route) i.e. the arête of a huge cave feature on massive holds. The top layback kicks you back into overhanging terrain and it’s quite a unique feeling for a grade 17 route. Before dinner we bid farewell to Neil and Kathy who were due back in Sydney for work.
Today we woke to rain and despite much enthusiasm, much of the cliff was wet. Thankfully, Manta Ray was dry enough to climb, and Erik and Glenn both flashed the route with ease, confirming the grade. This was the first route to feature my new anchor design concept, the single oversize horizontally-placed U-bolt. When installed, this looks like a large kitchen drawer handle. The rope can run along the whole surface, so there is no concentrated point of wear, the legs are far enough apart to be considered separate bolts, the visual impact of the anchor is quite low, and the rope pulls much easier than with double bolts.
Glenn was itching to clean up Sea Of Sleep 21, and did so in fine style despite a light misting rain. Thankfully the route is capped by a roof and is fairly protected. Because of the general wetness of the cliff, we conducted a mini bolting clinic with me going ground-up on a section of dry cliff protected by roofs. I was explaining to Glenn how good I was at judging sandstone strength when I busted a hold and fell onto the first bolt I’d placed. This mishap made the next placement even more interesting, as there was no regular gear placements to hang off and I had to rely on a hook on a 10mm thick bit of jutting flake. I gingerly sat on it while squinting my face up a lot. After getting braver, I bounce tested it, pulled up the drill and placed a U-bolt. By this time, we could see our ride approaching on the river. It was our 45 foot deluxe houseboat ably captained by none other than Hawkesbury aficionado and King of Kneebar, Jason Piper. Nobody knows more about climbing on the Hawkesbury River than Jase (and guidebook partner in crime Anthony Alexander) so it’s great to have him along on the trip.
We’ve now loaded up the boat and our merry band of six have cruised to within cooee of the super impressive Bluffs, 100m high cliffs above the wreck of the HMAS Parramatta. I’ve caught a nice sized flathead and we’re ready for an adventurous day on the Bluffs tomorrow. Stay tuned!

Our sweet ride - the Rumpole! © L Cujes 2009
We fly out tomorrow for the Upskill Hawkesbury Houseboat Trip. We'll endeavor to get the odd trip report online here letting you all know how we're getting on.
(I'm taking 8kg of bolts!)
Isn't it amazing what you can knock up on your phone, in about two minutes?
Hawkesbury Cliff Development: Deliverance
Posted by Lee Cujes Labels: Bolting, Climbing Camp: 2009 Hawkesbury, Climbing Report, New RoutesIn preparation for the Upskill Hawkesbury Houseboat Trip in March, CRUX magazine Ed and avid new-router Neil Monteith and I spent the weekend going hell for leather on a great new cliff on the Hawkesbury River dubbed Deliverance. It's remote, and has private land access issues, but thankfully we have gained permission to climb here. The cliff is NE facing so is in the shade for most of the day which makes it an ideal summer cliff.
Neil established three routes (20, 22, 24) and one unfinished project. I established three routes (22, 22, 25) and two others awaiting first ascents (around 18-20).

Neil on FFA of Sea Of Slopers (22) © L Cujes 2009
We're planning on spending at least one day at this cliff on the Hawkesbury trip. There is first ascents to complete, as well as scope for putting up new lines.
If you're keen to come along, get in touch!
Hawkesbury Houseboat Climbing Trip Announcement
Posted by Lee Cujes Labels: Climbing Camp: 2009 HawkesburySmooth water. Orange sandstone. Soak a line while breakfast cooks.
"Which cliff to steer the boat to this morning?"
You may have heard about the last Upskill Climbing trip to Kalymnos in Greece (trip reports here). Well, it rocked, we're back, and we're planning the next one. A little closer to home this time...
The Hawkesbury River, just north of Sydney cuts a meandering path through a hell of a lot of beautiful sandstone, much of which is virtually inaccessible, except by boat. It's quite a unique phenomenon: where else is there such a quantity of rock, so close to a major capital city, which is so untouched? So in March 2009, we're going to board a luxury houseboat and spend a week exploring a host of hidden gems which are scattered along the river. Everything will be taken care of, and all you'll need to concentrate on is the climbing.
The climbing itself will be quite varied. Sport climbing, new routing, adventure tradding, bouldering and deep water soloing (see Crafty's pics for a taste) will all be available, based on our collective appetites. And, like all Upskill trips, there'll be a coaching/learning component so you come away with lots of learnings to improve your climbing.
So, if you think you might be keen on coming and want to be notified when the planning is complete and cost is known, send me a quick email -- upskillclimbing AT gmail.com and I'll pop you on the mailing list.
Cheers!
Lee
PS: For more pics, check the Hawkesbury River and Central Coast Climbers photo pool on flickr.





































