What do I need to train?
Close your eyes. Think back. Why did you fall off your last hard climb?
Power training options
Close your eyes. Think back. Why did you fall off your last hard climb?
- You couldn’t physically do the moves; even after a sit on the rope ==> you need to work on power and strength
- You could make the distances between the holds (do the moves), but you couldn't stick them ==> you need to work on finger strength and recruitment
- You fell off after the crux, towards the top, because you were pumped and exhausted ==> you need to work on endurance
- You could do all the moves, perhaps in a couple of sections, but you couldn’t string them all together ==> you need to work on your power endurance
Power training options
- Exercises that emphasise strength with speed, such as clap pullups.
- Campussing [see moon training article]
- Hard, short, dynamic boulder problems
- Weights
- Weighted pullups
- Slow and controlled bodyweight exercises [see 'Frenchies' video]
- Hangboarding [see moon article]
- H.I.T. workouts
- Bouldering on smaller holds
- Campussing
- Maximum effort short power problems (1-4 moves)
- Eccentrics (lowering with big weight) [see my video - #2]
- Low intensity climbing
- Go for milage, avoiding massive burn where possible. 40% - 70% of ability.
- 60-90 minutes continuous climbing
- Standard route climbing
- Circuits (short and long resistance) [see my video]
- Noshakes bouldering with failure in 5 minutes. 60 - 95% of your maximum ability. 15 min break.
- Horst pullup intervals (5 pullups in 60 sec, repeat x10) [see Horst blog]
- I will have more on this in an upcoming blog, suffice to say that the one area every single climber I have coached can call a weakness is their core strength. You can always be better. L-sits, bicycles, one or two-legged front levers, bridge holds, swiss ball exercises, sit-ups and crunches, one arm presses with weights, the list goes on.
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