Climbing periodization and planning

I've been a bit slack. It's cool though, we all have periods where for whatever reason (family, weather, motivation, work, gardening) our climbing goes through a downtime cycle. I never really feel good about this, but I know it is actually a good thing. It's valuable rest time that the body needs.

Sometimes it's hard to get started again though. That's where having a plan helps. Planning specific training phases is referred to as periodization for climbing. You basically map out what you plan to train and when, and you structure it in such a way that there is a definite focus for each phase.

So I have just used my Google Calendar and mapped out the following:

Phase 1: Hypertrophy 4-6 weeks
Phase 2: Max Recruitment 2-3 weeks
Phase 3: Power Endurance 2 weeks
Phase 4: Power Endurance/Peak 4 weeks
Phase 5: Rest 2 weeks

Now I can easily see what I should be training at any given time. As you can see, I have a big block of hypertrophy (or strength-building) ahead of me for this month. So I'll be hitting up the fingerboard and doing some short, hard bouldering.

So what exercises do I do for each of the other phases? Well, check out my What do I need to train? And how?! article.

Now I know what I should be doing, I just have to actually make a start. I'll start tonight, honest.

Rest day © E Smits 2009

More info:
Rockprodigy's training plan, which is what I base most of my stuff on
You can read my article on using a training diary for climbing here

Keywords: climbing training, climbing periodization, phased training, phase training, fingerboard, hangboard