Prime Evil

It's been almost a year since I've been to Mt Coolum. But last weekend there were some huge storms predicted and apart from an indoor gym, Coolum is the only possible option. There's been a few routes go up since I've been gone, and one of them is Prime Evil (29/8a/13b). This (like a bunch of other routes) shares the start of my 2008 first ascent Evil Wears No Pants before breaking left and taking in a series of boulder problems and outright rests. Very stop-start, and in true Coolum fashion, pretty weird.

I put a couple of burns in with Jimmy who had already done the route and was kind enough to swap some beta (he was working my route Bite The Hand That Feeds). I did some good links, and it is always fun remembering how to climb the tricky, 70 degree overhung start of Evil. Yesterday, I dispatched the route on my second try - fourth all up.

John O'Brien was there with the camera and captured some of the action, and some of the sitting around...

This is the handy kneebar you get at the end of the first section of Evil. It's bomber.

The Wildcat move. Slippery slide out of kneebar, catch horn, swing gracefully towards Marcoola.

Yep, this is a complete sit down on a horn. Throw in a kneebar and toe-hook and all you're lacking is a cool beverage.

I think this is my fave shot. You take a three finger pocket with your right hand and roll around a kneebar to snag a big sloping edge.

You can fall on this move, it's a bit wacky.

My bro, JJ!