Ueli Steck Climbing Training Plan

Ueli Steck
© Robert Bosch

Climbing just published a story taking a look at the fitness of alpinist Ueli Steck. As far as climbers go, it would be difficult to imagine someone with greater fitness than Ueli. I mean this is the guy who literally sprinted up the Eiger in 2 hours, 47 minutes in 2008. Only a year earlier, the Swiss Federal Institute of Sports Magglingen judged Steck 'out of shape'. In his quest for setting the fastest speed record he could, what followed was a year of the most scientific and rigorous training Steck could devise supported by a slew of sports scientists and training specialists.

Here is just a selection of his training plan.

Get psyched!

FOCUS: ALPINE ENDURANCE (PRE-EIGER RECORD)

• MONDAY 

  1 hour running–Intensity 2 / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour stabilization (core) training / slideshow
• TUESDAY 

  2 hours running–Intensity 2 / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour mental training / slideshow
• WEDNESDAY
  
4 hours climbing in the gym / 2 hours running–Intensity 1 / 1/2 hour stretching / slideshow
• THURSDAY
  
4 hours climbing in the gym / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour mental training / slideshow
• FRIDAY
  
1.5 hours running–Intensity 1 / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour mental training / slideshow
• SATURDAY 

  3.5 hours running–Intensity 4 / 1 hour stretching / slideshow
• SUNDAY (REST DAY)
  
Climbing with my wife 4 hours / 1 hour stretching

FOCUS: YOSEMITE CLIMBING (2010, WEEK 17)

• MONDAY 

  Run: 12 kilometers/1,000 meters gain–Intensity 2
• TUESDAY
  
Climbing outdoors: 3 pitches of 5.13d, 2 of 5.13a, 1 of 5.11d / 1 hour weight training / 1 hour stretching
• WEDNESDAY
  
Climbing outdoors: 4 pitches of 5.14a, 2 of 5.13a / Run: easy 12 kilometers/800 meters gain–Intensity 1
• THURSDAY 

  Run: Eiger Lauper Route, running and climbing from Grindelwald, 20 kilometers/3,075 meters gain–Intensity 3
• FRIDAY (REST DAY)
• SATURDAY 

  Climbing in the gym: 4 pitches of 5.13b, 3 of 5.12d, 5 of 5.12b, 6 of 5.11d / 1 hour weight training / 1 hour stretching
• SUNDAY
  
Run: 18 kilometers/1,700 meters gain–Intensity 2

FOCUS: GENERAL ENDURANCE (2010, WEEK 33)

• MONDAY (REST DAY)
• TUESDAY 

  3-run series, total 27 kilometers/ 5,100 meters gain–Intensity 3 / 1 hour stretching
• WEDNESDAY
  
Climbing gym: 3 pitches of 5.13b, 4 of 5.13a, 6 of 5.12c, 4 of 5.11d / 1 hour stretching
• THURSDAY
  
Climbing gym: 3 pitches 5.13b, 5 of 5.13a, 6 of 5.12b, 6 of 5.11d / 1 hour stretching
• FRIDAY
  
3-run series, total 27 kilometers/ 5,100 meters gain–Intensity 3 / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour mental training
• SATURDAY
  
Climbing outdoors: 2 pitches 5.13d, 1 of 5.12c, 3 of 5.11d
• SUNDAY (REST DAY)
  
Drive to Dolomites

FOCUS: HIMALAYA (2011, WEEK 2)

• MONDAY
  
1 hour running–Intensity 2 / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour stabilization training / slideshow
• TUESDAY
  
2 hours running—Intensity 2 / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour mental training / slideshow
• WEDNESDAY
  
4 hours climbing in the gym / 2 hours running–Intensity 1 / 1/2 hour stretching / slideshow
• THURSDAY
  
4 hours climbing in the gym / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour mental training / slideshow
• FRIDAY (REST DAY)
  
1.5 hours running–Intensity 1 / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour mental training / slideshow
• SATURDAY
  
3.5 hours running–Intensity 4 / 1 hour stretching / slideshow
• SUNDAY (REST DAY)
  
Climbing with my wife 4 hours / 1 hour stretching

The Eiger's hardest free route, Paciencia (5.13b), a 27-pitch line on the right side of the north face.
© Robert Bosch