Yesterday, Tom O'Halloran made the first repeat of my route from 2008 Shadenfreude (31/8b) at The Pulpit. I was lucky enough to film Tom's climbing on the day. This was a route that took me 17 days to establish, and Tom repeated it on only his second day! There's a reason he's #2 in Australia. It was awesome to behold.
On his first day of trying the route, Tom discovered a new sequence in the middle of the 13 move bouldering crux which is certainly much better than my original way. It eliminates a low percentage stab to a tiny pocket which was a section which repeatedly stopped me when I was trying it. It's amazing the tunnel vision you can get on sequences without outside input from other climbers.
Tom, who has previously onsighted grade 30 routes affirmed that even with the more solid sequence, Schadenfreude felt harder than Point Break (30/31) which he'd recently climbed in the Blue Mountains. He's now super keen to repeat the other hard routes at the cliff (things like One Hit To The Body (30), Below The Belt (31) and The Singularity (32) will no doubt be on the list).
The Upskill camera will be rolling. Psyche is high!
Play it here, or (better) open it up BIG on Vimeo.
On his first day of trying the route, Tom discovered a new sequence in the middle of the 13 move bouldering crux which is certainly much better than my original way. It eliminates a low percentage stab to a tiny pocket which was a section which repeatedly stopped me when I was trying it. It's amazing the tunnel vision you can get on sequences without outside input from other climbers.
Tom, who has previously onsighted grade 30 routes affirmed that even with the more solid sequence, Schadenfreude felt harder than Point Break (30/31) which he'd recently climbed in the Blue Mountains. He's now super keen to repeat the other hard routes at the cliff (things like One Hit To The Body (30), Below The Belt (31) and The Singularity (32) will no doubt be on the list).
The Upskill camera will be rolling. Psyche is high!
Play it here, or (better) open it up BIG on Vimeo.
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| Behind the scenes. |
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