It's been almost a year since I've been to Mt Coolum. But last weekend there were some huge storms predicted and apart from an indoor gym, Coolum is the only possible option. There's been a few routes go up since I've been gone, and one of them is Prime Evil (29/8a/13b). This (like a bunch of other routes) shares the start of my 2008 first ascent Evil Wears No Pants before breaking left and taking in a series of boulder problems and outright rests. Very stop-start, and in true Coolum fashion, pretty weird.
I put a couple of burns in with Jimmy who had already done the route and was kind enough to swap some beta (he was working my route Bite The Hand That Feeds). I did some good links, and it is always fun remembering how to climb the tricky, 70 degree overhung start of Evil. Yesterday, I dispatched the route on my second try - fourth all up.
John O'Brien was there with the camera and captured some of the action, and some of the sitting around...
|This is the handy kneebar you get at the end of the first section of Evil. It's bomber.|
|The Wildcat move. Slippery slide out of kneebar, catch horn, swing gracefully towards Marcoola.|
|Yep, this is a complete sit down on a horn. Throw in a kneebar and toe-hook and all you're lacking is a cool beverage.|
|I think this is my fave shot. You take a three finger pocket with your right hand and roll around a kneebar to snag a big sloping edge.|
|You can fall on this move, it's a bit wacky.|
|My bro, JJ!|