Hey guys
If you've been reading this blog for a while you might be thinking about training, and improving your own climbing. This could be something that is right up your alley.
I'm running a climbing and coaching climbing holiday to Kalymnos, Greece in November this year. I have some initial information up on the website here...
http://qurank.com/upskillclimbi
Plus there is a flyer on the site with more detailed information as well.
The coaching component of the trip will be as much or as little as desired for each person. The focus will be on climbing the best routes, maybe getting some personal bests under our harnesses, and having a great time as a group.
Obviously, there's still lots of detail to work out including exact cost and the precise dates, but that's the way all good trips start. If you think this could be something you (and your partner, or climbing partner) could be up for - get back to me and let me know so I can pencil you in.
Even if you think this isn't your thing, you may have some ideas as to great people who could be interested. Please go ahead and forward this to them. Group dynamics are extremely important on a trip like this, so I'm looking for fun, happy, competent people who are PSYCHED on climbing and getting better. If any of you can think of people, let's talk!
We only live once. Let's do it.
Got up to Brooyar on the weekend and sent Neil's old open project, Carnivore at Wolf's Lair. Can you believe it's been 11 years since it was bolted? I'd been on it back in 2004 but wasn't up to it then.
Here's a pic from back in '04...
So after one memorable mega fall from the top of the route, past the belayer (hi Sam!) into the trees below, I sent it on the second morning. Very short, but punchy and fun. After sending it, I rebolted it with four rings so it's ready to go for hassle-free repeats. I'm suggesting grade 28, see what you think. (See old qurank post about Carnivore here).
I onsighted Graham's Little Wednesday at Black Stump. which I think he's been struggling to grade. So, Graham - I reckon it's 25! :) Fun little route. Same story for Rocky's Pebbles at Point Pure. This had a slash 24/25 grade in the guide, now simply 25. Congrats to Rocky on the bolting of this, really nicely done. An intricate and enjoyable route but still needs miles more cleaning.
Lastly, I eliminated the aid from Tight as a Drum (22 A1) at Point Pure, taking a big fall on the first attempt. Someone may have done this before, who knows. Regardless, it's a hell of a move out to the arete. Let's call it 24.
On Sunday I made the third ascent of A Kneebar Too Far (29) at Coolum. First climbed by local Matt Eaton last year and repeated by Adam Donoghue, the route climbs out one of the steepest and most 'cavey' bits of the Coolum cave. I tried the route for the first time one week prior, putting in two good shots. Even though the line is very steep, there's surprisingly not too much very overhung climbing, because the section of rock you climb is mostly perpendicular to the ground, and you simply traverse from left to right. I think I counted 27 moves. I love routes which traverse, because my training wall at home is so short, I end up doing a lot of traversing, so it's great when a route actually matches up with what you're training. Nevertheless, I was really sore after trying it due to its burly moves.
My second day was on Thursday and I put in three good shots, coming very close to sending it on the second try, falling off right towards the end. I was very surprised and happy, and was feeling very positive about the next day. So after two days of rest I was back. On the long drive up to Coolum, Neil Fewtrell and I were talking about how cool it would be to have stand lights to light up the recesses of the cave for photos. Neil pointed at the generator in the back of the ute and said "Whatdaya reckon?" After a quick stop at Super Cheap Auto we had our lights and were ready for the easy-walk-in-turned-epic with a 35kg generator and light-kit.
When, drenched in sweat, we emerged at the cliff, photographer Phil Box could only point and laugh. Then it was out turn to point and laugh as we watched Phil desperately aiding amongst savage bees with the use of the four metre pool cleaning pole, hooking his rope over horns and gingerly jugging upwards to get into the primo spot for shooting.
Phil in position (c) N FewtrellAfter warming up on other routes, my plan was for my first attempt to be the 'photo lap' where I would hang on bolts as necessary to get some photos, and complete my warm up. But as I launched out into the business, I felt pretty good so just kept going, despite cutting loose on a few sections ("bad feet!"). Once making it past the route's signature inverted kneebar, you're pretty much home and hosed as there is a very restful double kneebar right before the anchors. As I sat in the double kneebar, I had a headspin from lack of calm, even breathing. My whole body had been held taut to maintain the right tension through the lower moves. I reached out and clipped the anchors, and then climbed out past them to satisfy the shortie Matt who couldn't make the clip from where I did. Didn't want him to say I hadn't done it properly! Psyched!
Under the belly of the beast! (c) P BoxPhil was keen to get another angle on the route, so I agreed to have one more burn on it for him and was on such a sendage high, that I managed to do it cleanly a second time. Cool! It's now a lap route! Well maybe not quite =)
Exiting the signature kneebar for the final section. (c) P Box
