You guys know all about Odyssey now. You don't need me to tell you that it is the single most varied and diverse crag at Kalymnos and hosts the biggest grade range of any sector (3s to 9s). Could this be why it draws the climbing celebrities?
|Recognise this guy? Yep, none other than climbing superstar Iker Pou. Rumour has it that he has been sent here on a secret mission by The North Face to scope out potential for a TNF festival type thing in September 2012. True or not, you heard it here first :)|
Edit: Are we on it or what? Festival now announced.
|As you can see, we run the biggest, baddest cameras in the business.|
|The steep, tricky and slippery Mermezeli 6b+ provided more of a warm-up than the crew were bargaining for. NAILS! :)|
|Bo takes a quick warm up on Eyreclea 5b.|
|Owen bagged Dionysos 7a|
|Typical view from the cliff.|
|The lovely Tiia who works in the climbing shop was hard at work on Polifemo 7c|
- 7a Dionysos - Trifecta! Morning tickage by Owen and Andy and myself. Superb steep line on big holds. Loved it. ...
- 6c+ Itaca - Woo-hoo! Having tried this in 2008 and 2010 it just HAD to go this trip. One shot today working it out with Sam, and sent 2nd shot at the end of the day with Owen and Andy as it came into sun. Awesome steepness on pockets and crimps. ...
- 7a Dionysos - Great climb! Cleaned up last years proj in 1 shot today :) ...
- 7b+ Inti Raymi - Two working laps.
- 5c+ Laertes
- 4c Argo
- 5b Eyriclea
- 6a+ Poly Retsina No Good - mmm not so sure with this one.. could have been a combination of pumpage ruining my reading skills but not a fan ...
- 6b+ Atena - FANTASTIC!! i love this route :D ... (off the final hold on the flash attempt!)
GOAT'S BITCHIN (or, GHOST KITCHEN)
I would have to say that this season, Ghost Kitchen has been the single busiest sector on the island in terms of # climbers vs. available routes.
|Buoyed by yesterday's success, Bo warmed up by flashing Exotic Ambelli 6a, and then...|
|Andy: Man, that was hard. Do you want to top rope this Bo?|
Bo: It looks awesome. I'm leading it Andy.
Andy: It's 6b+!
Bo: Pull the rope! I'm leading it!
Result: 6b+ flash. Previous best lead = 6a. WTF!? :)
|Sweet! Love the b+n gear.|
|I use a bowline, but Sam prefers a figure 8 with Yosemite
follow-through. Super neat, more compact than using a stopper knot, and
pretty easy to untie. |
What do you use?
|Andy onsighting Axium 6c+. One of my faves.|
|Susy and Andy both found Totenhansel 6c+ scary. Polished footers down low and dynamic pops between glassy tufa flows. They both persevered and sent.|
|Owen is well behaved as long as he has his toys to play with.|
|Bo dispatches Zyklop 6a+ first try before her toes say NO MORE! |
Ghost Kitchen sector.
|Post send review. |
"It was like this, so then I did this..."
Some memorable achievements from today included:
- Owen's redpoint of the nails Sisyphus Junior 7a+
- Bo (who'd previously led 6a) ticking off 6a, 6a+, 6b and 6b+ all first try today! MVP!
- Susy overcoming fears to dispatch Totenhansel 6c+
- Andy's easy onsight of Axium 6c+ and having fun up high on Totenhansel extension 7a+
These guys are on fire. I can't wait to see what's to come in the second half of the trip!