Ask The Coach #4: To consolidate, or grade-hunt?

The latest issue of my Ask The Coach column is now out in ROCK Magazine Winter 2011. Grab a copy, it's worth it for the cover alone. A brilliant Simon Carter image of Lee Cossey on one of the best looking new routes Australia's seen in a decade (Sneaky Snake 33/8c, Taipan Wall, Grampians, Australia).

As for my article, well, it delves into that age old debate about whether it's best to quest after the next grade at all costs, or consolidate a base at each grade before moving up the ladder. We take a special look at Adam Ondra and riff about specialists vs generalists in climbing.

As always, I'm looking for training-related questions to answer in future installments, so please email them through (upskillclimbing AT The next question chosen for publishing wins a copy of the upcoming Australian climbing flick Smitten on DVD. I don't get many questions, so if you ask a good question you're in with a big chance.

While we're at it, why not bite the bullet and subscribe to ROCK? For the price of a low-end quickdraw (in Australia anyway!), four issues will just show up in your mailbox. What a nice surprise.

Ask The Coach #4. Click to enlarge like Adam's hair.


nick said...

nice article on a topic all climbers pushing their limits shoould know about. On a pedantic note, I don't think that photo of Ondra is Overshadow. The rock is not at all like Malham, I would suggest it is Oliana.

Lee Cujes said...

I thought that myself regarding the photo Nick. ROCK sourced the image. However, if you have a search the Googleweb you'll find photos of Ondra wearing the exact same gear on his Overshadow send day.