I hope you'll enjoy reading my perspective on these training-related topics. It comes from compulsively reading everything I can on the subject over the last 10+ years, using myself as a crash test dummy and - over the last few years - having the opportunity to coach a lot of climbers of various body types and abilities.
|Click to enlarge and read.|
Pic is me on the FA of My Way or The Railway (8a/29), Butterfly Valley,
Cat Ba Island, Vietnam (c) Jason Piper.
Let me know what you think.