Chris Sharma's Finestra project at Margalef

How's that for name dropping?

Sam and I were fortunate enough to catch up with Chris Sharma and Daila Ojeda at Finestra sector in Margalef where Chris was attempting a new project.

The steep wall at Finestra must be one of the most futuristic pieces of rock I have seen anywhere. It must be roughly 60 degree overhanging 20-30m long (just to the lip!) and with basically no rests that I could see anywhere. No tricky kneebars. Just lots of tiny, sharp pockets. There's nowhere to hide on this wall.

Chris' project climbs the insane wall in the background. © Lee Cujes 2010
There are about six or so routes on the wall including undone projects. I think the easiest route is 8c or 8c+ (!!)

Chris' project climbs an existing route to a bad, sloping "rest" about ten metres or so below the lip. It's 8c+ just to this rest! Then several bolts worth of new hard climbing to the lip encounter. The holds to turn the lip are so poor and sloping, I didn't see Chris link these moves even once on one of his working burns.

Needless to say, the route is going to be hell hard, and very impressive.

Chris attacks the lip on his project. © Lee Cujes 2010
Chris and Dalia were both super friendly - true climbing ambassadors.

The photo we couldn't leave Spain without. Thanks for being such a good sport Chris :)


Patrick Simon said...

you are the true climbing tourist! nice 1