How's that for name dropping?
Sam and I were fortunate enough to catch up with Chris Sharma and Daila Ojeda at Finestra sector in Margalef where Chris was attempting a new project.
The steep wall at Finestra must be one of the most futuristic pieces of rock I have seen anywhere. It must be roughly 60 degree overhanging 20-30m long (just to the lip!) and with basically no rests that I could see anywhere. No tricky kneebars. Just lots of tiny, sharp pockets. There's nowhere to hide on this wall.
|Chris' project climbs the insane wall in the background. © Lee Cujes 2010|
Chris' project climbs an existing route to a bad, sloping "rest" about ten metres or so below the lip. It's 8c+ just to this rest! Then several bolts worth of new hard climbing to the lip encounter. The holds to turn the lip are so poor and sloping, I didn't see Chris link these moves even once on one of his working burns.
Needless to say, the route is going to be hell hard, and very impressive.
|Chris attacks the lip on his project. © Lee Cujes 2010|
|The photo we couldn't leave Spain without. Thanks for being such a good sport Chris :)|