Rodellar 2010 - Trip Report 2 (Pince Sans Rire, El Camino)

Our "rest" day included adventures such as hiking through the canyon, visiting quaint churches on the top of hills that were locked, scoping sectors not yet visited, and for myself, an epic getting lost on the way to La Pincenetta sector (ordinarily a 1hr 15min approach) and having no option but to swim down a canyon. Freezing and a bit scary!

At least there was a nice sunset as I walked back soaking wet.
You can see the Gran Boveda, one of the "big 3" killer Rodellar sectors in this pic.
We all slept well.

Day three dawned overcast and the paving stones were wet outside the apartment. It had rained overnight. The tufas would continue to be wet. No problem though, as our sector for the day was the left side of Pince Sans Rire.

Kirsty on Ciao Bambino 6b (20)
Some of us top roped La Alimana de Ocana 6b (20) to warm up. This is the easiest route on this pretty difficult sector, so a quick top rope is nice for a no stress warm-up. May really enjoyed the route and thought it might be a go-er for a lead.

May on La Alimana de Ocana 6b (20)
After dialling the moves, she was ready for attempt number one. This resulted in a struggle through the mid-height bulge and a fall. Great! Why great? No yells of take, no grabbing the draw. 100% commitment to the move, a throw, and a nice clean fall. For someone struggling with their "falling demons" this is a big leap forward.

For someone struggling with their "falling demons" this is a big leap forward.
The positive energy from this fed straight into her second attempt, and after doing a huge throw, missing the hold and falling back onto a jug (but not the rope), only to power-yell and go though on the second try was just great to see. She was fierce! Result? A clean tick, and a new hardest lead climb! Bring it on!
May's gold star. Not bad for day three! Gold star not redeemable for cash.
May spent the rest of the day with an un-wipe-offable grin, and proceeded to ride the wave, with several burns on the classic, steep power-haul Los Hermanos Peruanos 6b+ (21).

May sussing the moves on Los Hermanos Peruanos 6b+ (21)
Kirsty also had a big day. The small rails at the top of La Alimana de Ocana 6b (20) were giving her curry! She had four solid burns throughout the day, working sequences and taking some good falls in the process. This is sport climbing!

Kirsty takes flight.
"I've taken more falls in the last three days than in the last six months!"
Kirill also had a successful day. After sending La Alimana de Ocana 6b (20), we thought he might be a bit tired, but he then went on to flash the 5m overhanging Los Hermanos Peruanos 6b+ (21). His equial hardest flash! This, from the self-confessed "not good at overhangs" guy who's only been climbing a year and a half. And to make it a clean sweep, the corner route Ciao Bambino 6b (20) also got redpointed.

Kirill contemplates the capping roof on Ciao Bambino 6b (20) before pulling through for the send.
Day four dawned bright, clear, cold and windy. El Camino it is! The left side of the wall has some great routes in the grades we're chasing. I am happy to report team ticks of the nemesis route from day two, Bugs Bunny 6a+ (19). Everyone finished it off in style. Then without hesitation, on to harder things.

Sam and Kirsty have found a new project in the tough tufa blob route Future Promesas 6c (22)
How cool is this guy?
If only Elmer Fudd was as lucky. Kirsty waves goodbye to Bugs Bunny 6a+ (19).
Kirsty samples Para Mis Amigos 6a+ (19)
It's a nice view across the canyon to Nuit De Temps sector. There's some 40m pitches here!
Ordinarily you'd only climb for the morning at El Camino as it goes into the sun after lunch, but today, with the cold wind it was actually nice to climb in the sun. The team decided to stay and press on with their projects. Kirsty and and Sam worked Future Promesas 6c (22) until their skin was done for the day. May went to work on Para Mis Amigos 6a+ (19) and found a very challenging reachy crux. Kirill went for the flash attempt on Felipe el Hermoso 6c (22) and got his nose touching the anchors but was too pumped to clip. Argh! A second try yielded a similar result and a fall I managed to snag on film. I happened to be filming Sam, and Kirill came flying off and basically flew across the frame. Sam didn't even notice. That's focus. Third try and it was in the bag. Nice Kirill!

That night there were some tired bodies in need of a rest day. However a day hike is on the cards. Some rest day!

Weather is clear and crisp for the next week. Things are just getting better and better. Stay tuned!