Angry Dragon

A couple of posts ago I mentioned a new 30m project at the Pulpit...

On the weekend, I headed back to the Pulpit yet again, and began work on a great new 30m project which Duncan equipped earlier this year and gave to me to try. It has a tough, in your face opener which I solved with several thumb underclings, some crimps, and a big throw/span. The climbing then backs off through a section of slabby climbing where you would be able to climb into a cave with an anchor at the 15m point. And once I've climbed that cleanly, that'll be one route, but the real line (the extension, as it were) doesn't go into the cave and instead continues up the ever steepening wall into the top crux, which is haaaard! Slopers, weird gastons, high awkward feet, a core destroying left foot stab, then a super long crux stab for a perfect three finger flatter. When you catch this you're really extended with terrible, terrible feet. You get through this bulge onto the headwall, and finish up the runout outtro of Gay Abandon, an existing 27. It's gonna be cool!

Well, last week was my second full day devoted to the route. On the first try, I fell on the tricky start, cruised up the easy section, and then surprised myself by freeing the upper crux bulge for the first time (about grade 29). I then sat, chilled out a bit and spent time working the Gay Abandon finish which is still quite pumpy and sequency.

On the second try I freed the bottom for the first time (about grade 26/7), only to fall on the upper crux. I thought to myself "Oh no, it's going to be one of those routes". It would have been easy to lower off at this point, but I climbed through and again worked the upper section several times, and I was lucky I did.

On the third try I could tell I was more tired, however I made it through the start, and latched the upper crux flatter by the skin of my teeth, climbing through up into Gay Abandon where I was soooo thankful that I had spent the time working the upper section. As it was, I only just managed to get through it without pumping off (I haven't been doing much enduro climbing lately).

So there it is! Angry Dragon (29) is born! Another good hard route for Queensland. Great concept by Duncan.


The crazy upside down holds of the opener on Angry Dragon (29) © G Llewellin 2009

3 comments:

Gareth said...

I reckon you should call the first half "Hot Lunch"

Anonymous said...

The photo makes it look like limestone! That wasn't much of a project. Come down and try the undercling mono Nowra project... NEIL

Anonymous said...

what undercling mono project is that?