Evil - my hardest route yet

So, for those that hadn't picked up the hints on qurank, or seen it on CragTV Ep. 2, I just wanted to confirm that on Sunday I completed my longest-running project yet, being Evil Wears No Pants at Mt Coolum. Adam Donoghue was the visionary behind this amazing route, and working from the top-down, climbed 95% of the severely overhanging 20m line cleanly before he moved interstate to Tassie earlier this year. I simply worked to unlock the boulder problem start and link it with Adam's existing line to give a 'from the ground to the top' climb -- the 'new' Evil Wears No Pants at grade 30.

And it's awesome. In my mind, right now, I truly think it is the best climb in Queensland.

In order to complete this project, I drove 2430km and spent $467 on fuel. I injured my shoulder, neck and groin and spent $117 on massages. I hit the ground once, and swore many times. I shipped in new shoes from the States for the heelhooks. My 60m rope needed to be chopped four times, leaving me with a 43m rope. I went through a roll of sports tape, three belayers, half a kilo of chalk, 10 Red Bull's and two packets of sour snakes.

It is my hardest climb, and I loved it. Clipping the anchors was bittersweet as it closed the book on this particular journey. Thanks to everyone who has supported me, given some encouragement, or sent some positive energy my way - it really makes a difference.


© Chris Fox 2008