tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-90646725885595299822024-03-05T18:30:47.371+11:00Upskill ClimbingPositivity & Creativity in Australian Climbing by Lee CujesLee Cujeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.comBlogger258125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-71316998784711628452015-02-14T19:54:00.008+11:002023-07-23T11:53:56.009+10:00VVV - Viral Vixen VideoYes, it's been super quiet here at the Upskill blog. I actually never posted in 2014. Is that bad?<br />
<br />
On a positive note, I have been doing heaps of climbing. The 2013 and 2014 seasons are some of the most fun climbing I've had in the SE Queensland region, ever. You know I love new routing. For those two years, all my energy outside work was funneled into developing three major new cliffs in the Urbenville region of northern NSW: <span style="color: purple;"><b>Vesuvius</b></span>, <b><span style="color: purple;">Spot X</span></b> and <b><span style="color: purple;">Crossroads</span></b>. <br />
<br />
Between the three crags, we established 71 routes. 20+ of these were over 40m in length. It was epic.<br />
<br />
All this action is a mere two hour drive from Brisbane. I put lots of k's on the car. But so, so worth it. All info for all three crags is now available on <a href="http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/northern-rivers-urbenville" target="_blank">theCrag.com</a>, and the season is just starting. If you live in Brisbane, 2015 could be your Urbenville year. It's the Catalunya of Queensland.<br />
<br />
I capped off both prolific seasons with a hard first ascent. The second of these was <b>Vixen</b> 32. I was really pleased to vision, and then eventually climb this extremely overhanging, blank looking wall. The movement on it is super good - one of the most fun routes I've done. Erik filmed on it using his ingenious RopeClimber camera, and <a href="http://www.epictv.com/" target="_blank">EpicTV</a> ended up picking up the video. 200,000+ views later, and lots of people have now seen Spot X, even if they'll never climb there. <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ZCu2t0mPz4&ab_channel=LeeCujes">Watch the vid</a>.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><br/><br/>Lee Cujes</div>Lee Cujeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-79065992356903479372013-11-25T08:31:00.000+11:002014-09-21T18:47:59.370+10:00Climbing Anchors - The ideal sport route lower-off?Looking
for the ideal sport route lower-off configuration is like a quest for
the holy grail. There are so many different setups and configurations,
and generally, they all generally have some advantages and
disadvantages.<br />
<br />
Let's look at a few different configurations for pro's and con's.
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY_YRYUedfATvIeNdaDw7JMCWM2JwJueCyysvDWJbBwyi5kr0FTkj7q2Q7E_fO4BFaNFPDR6eh_p5gB64EQghK35QF5SjaebVpNJH4ljJmgIZvTujoIwFehGylKRE-mn4kQCgZUVe8gUxC/s1600/Venus-deMilo-anchors-After.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY_YRYUedfATvIeNdaDw7JMCWM2JwJueCyysvDWJbBwyi5kr0FTkj7q2Q7E_fO4BFaNFPDR6eh_p5gB64EQghK35QF5SjaebVpNJH4ljJmgIZvTujoIwFehGylKRE-mn4kQCgZUVe8gUxC/s320/Venus-deMilo-anchors-After.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>A custom chain setup.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Visual impact:</b> Bad. This is a pretty visually obtrusive anchor.<br />
<b>
Expense:</b> Bad. High cost due to number of components.
<b> </b><br />
<b>Rope-twist factor:</b> Good. Low.
<b> </b><br />
<b>Lifespan:</b> Good. Where the rope touches are rings which spin, spreading the wear.
<b> </b><br />
<b>Replace-ability:</b> Good. Mallions attach the chains.
<b> </b><br />
<b>Convenience:</b> Bad (no clip and lower).
<b> </b><br />
<b>Single clip safety:</b> Bad. Ideally you want to clip to the anchor and be immediately attached to two bolts.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKiz21OOgH7ehfdSIU4lI3TNF-KOQwlV8JnUuzJjWO8CzAoua539WmK2wmELLG7xKuf_5sK3RauAcjAs5We10GKIEiCJcqveuGEJyu4a8fIFlTXazZUcU1vBpoEhS4GRf72aWNxWsf_8BB/s1600/two-rings.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKiz21OOgH7ehfdSIU4lI3TNF-KOQwlV8JnUuzJjWO8CzAoua539WmK2wmELLG7xKuf_5sK3RauAcjAs5We10GKIEiCJcqveuGEJyu4a8fIFlTXazZUcU1vBpoEhS4GRf72aWNxWsf_8BB/s320/two-rings.png" height="224" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Horizontal Fixe rings - quite common setup.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Visual impact:</b> Good. No chain involved, so pretty low impact.
<b> </b><br />
<b>Expense:</b> Not bad.
<b> </b><br />
<b>Rope-twist factor:</b> Not great. Even if this was threaded correctly (not like the photo) this configuration does twist the rope.
<b> </b><br />
<b>Lifespan:</b> Good. Where the rope touches are rings which spin, spreading the wear.
<b> </b><br />
<b>Replace-ability:</b> Good. Tru-bolts have been used (the only time I recommend their use!) to enable the anchors to be removed and replaced.
<b> </b><br />
<b>Convenience:</b> Bad (no clip and lower).
<b> </b><br />
<b>Single clip safety:</b> Bad. Ideally you want to clip to the anchor and be immediately attached to two bolts.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv9n1NUlSdq_1v7gUnz_yQ4vqN0Ko6i2V6lPFLZsRQGfBcXZOBh2tAMAwD5aiOci00lhCXTZyloYOuN1WjUc_RPmUzkFRrK8lPzDvVbZgQ4Gjdlvl52B3LqEXhzXS6GaWgwvyXfBaOpo34/s1600/fixe-rap-anchor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv9n1NUlSdq_1v7gUnz_yQ4vqN0Ko6i2V6lPFLZsRQGfBcXZOBh2tAMAwD5aiOci00lhCXTZyloYOuN1WjUc_RPmUzkFRrK8lPzDvVbZgQ4Gjdlvl52B3LqEXhzXS6GaWgwvyXfBaOpo34/s320/fixe-rap-anchor.jpg" height="320" width="320" /><i></i></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Commercial Fixe anchor set. Very common.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Visual impact:</b> Moderate. <br />
<b>Expense:</b> Moderately expensive.<b> </b><br />
<b>Rope-twist factor:</b> Good. Single ring sits perpendicular to the wall. No rope twist.<b><br /></b><br />
<b>Lifespan:</b> Good. The rope wears the ring, which can spin and spread the wear.
<b> </b><br />
<b>Replace-ability:</b> Not great, as you have to replace the entire anchor, or chop the ring and install an alternative.<b></b><br />
<b>Convenience:</b> Bad (no clip and lower).
<b> </b><br />
<b>Single clip safety:</b> Good - you're always on two bolts. This makes for a good multipitch anchor, and quite a good sport route lower-off, if somewhat inconvenient.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH4KyzlcBKyU1vzHLe9raZvQZFIjTP0WaPUSQQ2wuJK2RUOlxPtF9sdOe94kW1GkniufsF3HLSRUEb8NVcytJOEK78Pz5R99XSMuj2RQ0_fcZ0hkmS06JjUhdmGX32pEdB61IcLAXtMh5L/s1600/raumer-anchor.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH4KyzlcBKyU1vzHLe9raZvQZFIjTP0WaPUSQQ2wuJK2RUOlxPtF9sdOe94kW1GkniufsF3HLSRUEb8NVcytJOEK78Pz5R99XSMuj2RQ0_fcZ0hkmS06JjUhdmGX32pEdB61IcLAXtMh5L/s1600/raumer-anchor.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Commercial unit from 'Raumer'</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Visual impact:</b> Not great. It's a pretty big beast. The double-chain version of this is even more obtrusive.
<b> </b><br />
<b>Expense:</b> Reasonably expensive as this is a commercial product.
<b> </b><br />
<b>Rope-twist factor:</b> Good. Lowering off a single point minimises rope twist.
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyE20vhMTiuzgQnOAL5Cz82dmjijcPdEA_k4fBvZFM7jndBsw9hFopgeqw13xPeu2ZTE_tOTxrbYxYJ9_Mu1iYWOCYY0i8dsrIW7fPxcnoi9-b0GhXeHFe3r_OP69I-2aPZ-NDjZ3WI8Do/s1600/worn-fixe-biner.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyE20vhMTiuzgQnOAL5Cz82dmjijcPdEA_k4fBvZFM7jndBsw9hFopgeqw13xPeu2ZTE_tOTxrbYxYJ9_Mu1iYWOCYY0i8dsrIW7fPxcnoi9-b0GhXeHFe3r_OP69I-2aPZ-NDjZ3WI8Do/s200/worn-fixe-biner.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Wear!</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Lifespan:</b> Bad. In high-traffic areas, this thick stainless carabiner will be worn through in a year or two (see right).
<b> </b><br />
<b>Replace-ability:</b> Bad. When the carabiner is worn
out, it's quite a job to chop it off with a grinder. This leaves a
spinning ring which you can lower off, or put another captive steel
carabiner with a mallion. The other option is to replace the entire unit
with an identical unit.<br />
<b>Convenience:</b> Good. Clip and lower, baby!<br />
<b>Single clip safety:</b> Good. You can clip anything and you're attached to two bolts.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiybHmtq82ZZ3A9f9qY7BmGwFi19CY2rcTpYVRTi7AdCT3yeGGCMvGS_2vCMlQmQj1f2eD8aCf38HgR7c9R8UpILa5812m4FVtbhwhHkz_no6b10GEDMLZogJl_bnCk0CGLVEZDOBLMemjZ/s1600/naked-rings.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiybHmtq82ZZ3A9f9qY7BmGwFi19CY2rcTpYVRTi7AdCT3yeGGCMvGS_2vCMlQmQj1f2eD8aCf38HgR7c9R8UpILa5812m4FVtbhwhHkz_no6b10GEDMLZogJl_bnCk0CGLVEZDOBLMemjZ/s320/naked-rings.png" height="260" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Two naked glue-in rings.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj71fZHdVvOrLjXSUzF3YjUxc7E4XwHG_9no6so639eovIHUYI8IHpJLDFMPIMGvJVvlSaoLj3rlr0CEYqy0pvPnHAu0TlzJnkyA6VbRNZa_FsmY5kUVEhsd5pQt_BSEzSwoWD9r5u_QDHf/s1600/worn-ubolt.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj71fZHdVvOrLjXSUzF3YjUxc7E4XwHG_9no6so639eovIHUYI8IHpJLDFMPIMGvJVvlSaoLj3rlr0CEYqy0pvPnHAu0TlzJnkyA6VbRNZa_FsmY5kUVEhsd5pQt_BSEzSwoWD9r5u_QDHf/s200/worn-ubolt.jpg" height="200" width="183" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Wear on ugly U-bolt. Bad!</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Visual impact:</b> Good. About as low-impact as you can get.<br />
<b>Expense:</b> Good. Pretty cheap.<br />
<b>Rope-twist factor:</b> Not great. This configuration does twist the rope.<br />
<b>Lifespan:</b>
Bad. Rope-wear will wear these bolts out (see right). This anchor can
be good for very low traffic routes, but as soon as wear is noticed,
install some mallions and chain.<br />
<b>Replace-ability:</b> Bad. Once
these wear out you have to heat them with a blowtorch to melt the glue
and then extract. It's pretty full-on! Lazy people would chop them but
this is messy at best.<br />
<b>Convenience:</b> Bad (no clip and lower).<br />
<b>Single clip safety:</b> Bad. Ideally you want to clip to the anchor and be immediately attached to two bolts.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX7VGyPp4OPAK9gXpd55JIGnIM3_AOLJGiF4Vh-rR0ejV3Qgjh7qGjvnV3SiEj3hfegzQ-RqJnFqhFxZlTN2B5JhYKou9oyAWlo4sGdJ6CaNAn4BvOZExXmdLbGn0eEy3H4vwhb4uxnHlx/s1600/hybrid-rap-anchor-good.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX7VGyPp4OPAK9gXpd55JIGnIM3_AOLJGiF4Vh-rR0ejV3Qgjh7qGjvnV3SiEj3hfegzQ-RqJnFqhFxZlTN2B5JhYKou9oyAWlo4sGdJ6CaNAn4BvOZExXmdLbGn0eEy3H4vwhb4uxnHlx/s320/hybrid-rap-anchor-good.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Fixe ring and chain combo.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Visual impact:</b> Moderate. Chain always stands out, but at least this is only one length.
<b> </b><br />
<b>Expense:</b> Moderate. There are a few components here. Cheaper than most commercial setups though.<br />
<b>Rope-twist factor:</b> Good. Placed in this configuration, the thread point acts as one. Minimal twist.<br />
<b>Lifespan:</b> Good. The ring will spin. The chain is easily replaced.<br />
<b>Replace-ability:</b> Good. All wearable components are easily replaced.
<b> </b><br />
<b>Convenience:</b> Not great (no clip and lower) but at least you have plenty of clip points.<br />
<b>Single clip safety:</b> Bad. Ideally you want to clip to the anchor and be immediately attached to two bolts.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTiIucEvdIBHYTA8eVW0aiTNslNUZ2UBBzspk-qmgRGhv0mNOZy9f3JSfpJlV0sqHViJSfcJOhfYygM7EB75mrbzV00XNtzgKmkD3MNrhlzGGqfWziwlx9hsivS1ExwAKTsW0ZwqFW1BSY/s1600/twistshackle-anchor.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTiIucEvdIBHYTA8eVW0aiTNslNUZ2UBBzspk-qmgRGhv0mNOZy9f3JSfpJlV0sqHViJSfcJOhfYygM7EB75mrbzV00XNtzgKmkD3MNrhlzGGqfWziwlx9hsivS1ExwAKTsW0ZwqFW1BSY/s320/twistshackle-anchor.JPG" height="294" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Glue-in rings with twist-shackles for "replace-ability"</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
For a while, climbers started to use <i><b>twist shackles</b></i> because they would not twist the rope and you could replace the components that wear. Seems like an ideal solution, right?
<b> </b><br />
<b>Why this is <span style="color: red;">not good</span>:</b>
The shackles can flip around so the rope is running over the pin of the
shackle. This can undo the shackle (!!). People have tried to overcome
this by "mousing" the shackles in position using wire or cable ties, but
ultimately, this turns into a mess. Avoid twist shackles.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI_2BMvl4_0mjtL5kxYkhEQZoaRvXmZz-rVZfbr9-B_aBA1uk4HtVB2HeZabQZ1qYteCOeHMwpwInNqWWb8WgD27maUhpI4AJTQPirqyXCLvd9iuR45gEj9H2WKp2dZrzuNuL4IiqH8gAj/s1600/mussy-hook-anchor.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI_2BMvl4_0mjtL5kxYkhEQZoaRvXmZz-rVZfbr9-B_aBA1uk4HtVB2HeZabQZ1qYteCOeHMwpwInNqWWb8WgD27maUhpI4AJTQPirqyXCLvd9iuR45gEj9H2WKp2dZrzuNuL4IiqH8gAj/s320/mussy-hook-anchor.png" height="233" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>"Mussy hook" lower-off.</i> <i>Gaining popularity in America.<br />
This setup ticks a lot of boxes but has some drawbacks.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Visual impact:</b> Moderate. They're very beefy, no doubt.<br /><b>Expense:</b> Good. These mussy hooks are supposed to be quite inexpensive (available in large hardware stores like Home Depot). Beware however cast versions of these - probably from China, and strength unknown.<br /><b>Rope-twist factor:</b> Could be a big problem unless they can sit off the rock. Mike Law says <i>"<span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" data-reactid=".r[4vd97].[1][3][1]{comment771253002888489_8978974}.[0].{right}.[0].{left}.[0].[0].[0][3]"><span class="UFICommentBody" data-reactid=".r[4vd97].[1][3][1]{comment771253002888489_8978974}.[0].{right}.[0].{left}.[0].[0].[0][3].[0]"><span data-reactid=".r[4vd97].[1][3][1]{comment771253002888489_8978974}.[0].{right}.[0].{left}.[0].[0].[0][3].[0].[0]"><span data-reactid=".r[4vd97].[1][3][1]{comment771253002888489_8978974}.[0].{right}.[0].{left}.[0].[0].[0][3].[0].[0].[0]">I
lowered off a lot of Muzzy hooks in Owens River Gorge and they
destroyed ropes by twisting, I think the fat ones have a thick spine and
sit so far off the wall that rope tension pulls them over at about 45
degrees, towards e</span></span><span data-reactid=".r[4vd97].[1][3][1]{comment771253002888489_8978974}.[0].{right}.[0].{left}.[0].[0].[0][3].[0].[3]"><span data-reactid=".r[4vd97].[1][3][1]{comment771253002888489_8978974}.[0].{right}.[0].{left}.[0].[0].[0][3].[0].[3].[0]"><span data-reactid=".r[4vd97].[1][3][1]{comment771253002888489_8978974}.[0].{right}.[0].{left}.[0].[0].[0][3].[0].[3].[0].[0]">ach other.</span></span></span></span></span>"</i><br /><b>Lifespan:</b> Good. The mussy hooks have a huge
rope-bearing surface and are very thick so they'll take a long time to
wear to about halfway where they can be replaced.<br /><b>Replace-ability:</b> Good. The hooks are easily replaceable via the mallions<b>.<br />Convenience:</b> Great! Clip and lower!<br /><b>Single clip safety:</b> Bad. Ideally you want to clip to the anchor and be immediately attached to two bolts.<b> </b><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiscyz1pB69SzGy09peszc5WzOeM7J77q7jIWuVy_lXDv7pvVP44xS-YWzqK97_dnaG7kksX5-A1Fl_SRRQkfQ_rsDtTZswrummCE084VqsrhYALc2L2IOG6ERGOIWjI9js0_XY8yQzrIR1/s1600/nice.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiscyz1pB69SzGy09peszc5WzOeM7J77q7jIWuVy_lXDv7pvVP44xS-YWzqK97_dnaG7kksX5-A1Fl_SRRQkfQ_rsDtTZswrummCE084VqsrhYALc2L2IOG6ERGOIWjI9js0_XY8yQzrIR1/s1600/nice.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Rotating rings, replaceable!</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Visual impact:</b> Moderate. They're very beefy, no doubt.<br /><b>Expense:</b> Moderately expensive. But everything here will last for a very long time, and will be easy to replace.<br /><b>Rope-twist factor:</b> Not as good as a single point, but not bad.<br /><b>Lifespan:</b> Superb. For starters, everything is 316 stainless, and the glue is Hilti RE-500, the best there is. The rings freely rotate, and when and if they need replacing, this is easily achieved via the mallions.<br /><b>Replace-ability:</b> Super.<b><br />Convenience:</b> Average.<br /><b>Single clip safety:</b> Ordinarily I would rate this "bad" but in this case, I give it a "good" based on the fact it's a stainless glue-in with the world's best glue, in granite. You're good. <b> </b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<span style="color: red;"><b>CONCLUSION</b></span> <br />
As
you can see there is no "right answer" when it comes to sport-route anchors, but there are materials and techniques that are nearly always
more appropriate than others. Route developers should always be thinking "When this anchor is worn, how easy is it to replace?"<br />
<br />
<b>Further reading:</b><br />
To learn even more about bolting, read my 2013 updated article "<a href="http://www.upskillclimbing.com/2009/02/how-to-bolt-rock-climbs-and-how-not-to.html">How to bolt rock climbs, and how not to</a>"<div class="blogger-post-footer"><br/><br/>Lee Cujes</div>Lee Cujeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-65455845996861958212013-11-01T08:55:00.000+11:002014-09-21T18:54:12.101+10:00Kalbarri - It's Gold!It was 1994 and I was finishing school when I first started climbing. Soon after, every request for birthday or Christmas presents was for anything climbing related. Invariably, a favourite gift was the 'Simon Carter Calendar' for that particular year. In the first one I ever had, there was a picture of a girl. A girl climbing an orange, overhanging arete. The route was called <b>Rattler</b> and was in a place I'd never heard of called <span style="color: purple;"><b>Kalbarri</b></span> in remote Western Australia. The route was grade 22 which was inconceivable at the time, but I cut out the image and put it on my wall in my university dorm and vowed I would one day go to Kalbarri to climb Rattler.<br />
<br />
Fast forward a mere 19 years. Hectic work schedule. A long weekend possibility? A few hasty emails. Book flights. Book hire car. The team was set: the QLD squadron of JJ O'Brien, myself and Sam, and the NSW ranks of the Carter company: Simon, Monique and Coco. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3r_mhGnMM_LopXyxV57ujHLXasxOLxjdRjCKV8Abr8temyiMXS9cPRrP7zN7WMobV3ZJnd36YqCjFONlZfEZa8vwKuJ36pCa8CrSzZCOUeMc6vS18E8hV0lcnj1Twum18M8E_6EYpyv6m/s1600/Screen+shot+2013-10-31+at+7.39.45+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3r_mhGnMM_LopXyxV57ujHLXasxOLxjdRjCKV8Abr8temyiMXS9cPRrP7zN7WMobV3ZJnd36YqCjFONlZfEZa8vwKuJ36pCa8CrSzZCOUeMc6vS18E8hV0lcnj1Twum18M8E_6EYpyv6m/s400/Screen+shot+2013-10-31+at+7.39.45+PM.png" height="233" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Google says 51 hours by car. Perhaps we'll fly to Perth?</td></tr>
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Now, some say that Perth is the world's second most remote capital city. It's a really long way from anywhere. Kalbarri is about six to seven hours north of Perth by car. So yep, it's a mission. In fact, I had never before been to Western Australia, so this would be pretty exciting.<br />
<br />
On top of that, immediately before flying out, we got word that the road in to the climbing area was closed for roadworks and would stay that way for 17 weeks. Noooo! Much negotiating with the local Ranger by Simon managed to secure us a way in, but not on the road.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvaQ4KIl3WOC53uik2z2P69flnRjs9ZRZuXEs4-a2Tbl8duiplHhDM-Xq84WehBvYTS6lOn_F7bIEUNnTksNNr9ZAtfyuX4HAbMomCmwNUBp3dg3L4Ur4tQChiAB8HyEXyV0nVKQkfPReo/s1600/IMG_7703.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvaQ4KIl3WOC53uik2z2P69flnRjs9ZRZuXEs4-a2Tbl8duiplHhDM-Xq84WehBvYTS6lOn_F7bIEUNnTksNNr9ZAtfyuX4HAbMomCmwNUBp3dg3L4Ur4tQChiAB8HyEXyV0nVKQkfPReo/s400/IMG_7703.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The way in. This is early and the sand is still damp from the dew. This is good.<br />
When the sand is white, and dry, and you're <i>not</i> in a Land Cruiser - you are scared!</td></tr>
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The head ranger in his jacked up Land Cruiser looked very skeptical at our hire cars: Nissan X-Trail and Toyota Rav-4. After being read the riot act and letting our tyres down - a LOT - we left the bitumen and turned onto a very scary fire trail composed 100% of sand. I won't go in to the driving too much, suffice it to say that I have no idea how we didn't get bogged multiple times, and we took our soft-roaders to the limits of their abilities. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp7HkWRffalQJl8-g3H0Qcbc8zKREIaqHevn8fFioMIVK1DpxLVECR40UDIvFxMSUafS03GCZ2VH3IbsTphXzuxWYNCHTKwnuoItEdPgZKZIA8E0eeL3_9p_SmfKy7xxzRL-2YHQKV9qEw/s1600/IMG_7432.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp7HkWRffalQJl8-g3H0Qcbc8zKREIaqHevn8fFioMIVK1DpxLVECR40UDIvFxMSUafS03GCZ2VH3IbsTphXzuxWYNCHTKwnuoItEdPgZKZIA8E0eeL3_9p_SmfKy7xxzRL-2YHQKV9qEw/s400/IMG_7432.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First view of the gorge and I am stoked!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRO-JsID7ovOLd7YzDEuIr0MYoXN-47dpPEilTk0sW3pOWnEqN8wA0WgI49EaIG2LZKOtujJaXqAJuJtGYvGAeMB-DvjCl8FZhN5pAUoQ08aGuK6h4ClnovhDFEv9ENz_eTxmAd4-V-bb5/s1600/IMG_7476.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRO-JsID7ovOLd7YzDEuIr0MYoXN-47dpPEilTk0sW3pOWnEqN8wA0WgI49EaIG2LZKOtujJaXqAJuJtGYvGAeMB-DvjCl8FZhN5pAUoQ08aGuK6h4ClnovhDFEv9ENz_eTxmAd4-V-bb5/s400/IMG_7476.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We're on the walk-in and Coco leads the way.</td></tr>
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One of the first climbs I saw as we walked in was Rattler. It was much smaller than I imagined! Over all the years this route had grown to epic proportions in my mind. I dumped my pack, racked up and soundly ticked it. It felt good.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC_iiMwi8Hf1HlSC0FZAUYrRnevycM2NEANJCW75FuYWoySWtOxaEjMpuRwyPk-iiFQWfIQzZdwRErNBrJEbyn59YfdxGlOsWjMRg_Gz1OPtA8s7JsBu6DLT2nme9qWnQph46ggLEZUzJq/s1600/IMG_7752.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC_iiMwi8Hf1HlSC0FZAUYrRnevycM2NEANJCW75FuYWoySWtOxaEjMpuRwyPk-iiFQWfIQzZdwRErNBrJEbyn59YfdxGlOsWjMRg_Gz1OPtA8s7JsBu6DLT2nme9qWnQph46ggLEZUzJq/s640/IMG_7752.jpg" height="640" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sam ticks Rattler (22)</td></tr>
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I'd heard of the area "The Promenade" which was the home to steep hard sport climbing in Kalbarri. This small but perfectly formed sector was developed by a core group of WA locals like Chris Jones and Gerhard Chipper (yes, that's his real name!) in the early-mid 90s and in some ways was ahead of its time, certainly in Western Australia. The wall varies from slightly steep on the right end to something like 60 degrees overhanging on the left and has 9 routes and a linkup between 24 and 29.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMQCPO4GnpFrihZUpW5jGbIVa0kMnTiITL4MHaeCXTCK57DjSaE0FUXo-nyPMbxlN8FRk7-b6dyRawVLgSvwZjBOpNl0RwZdlDJYAq3C2NbMoT6iC5UgOcnIEHVuNsL5pzEApkzQOt6-Iq/s1600/Screen+shot+2013-10-31+at+7.15.36+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMQCPO4GnpFrihZUpW5jGbIVa0kMnTiITL4MHaeCXTCK57DjSaE0FUXo-nyPMbxlN8FRk7-b6dyRawVLgSvwZjBOpNl0RwZdlDJYAq3C2NbMoT6iC5UgOcnIEHVuNsL5pzEApkzQOt6-Iq/s400/Screen+shot+2013-10-31+at+7.15.36+PM.png" height="297" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Check out The Promenade on <a href="http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/kalbarri/area/12155485" target="_blank">theCrag.com</a><span id="goog_749052122"></span><span id="goog_749052123"></span></td></tr>
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As it turns out, we had a mere two and a half days to climb, and we simply went to work on this wall. I was lucky enough to get the two hardest routes (Glass Slipper 29 and Homophobia 28) done fairly early, so I decided the mission was to tick the wall! I worked my way down in difficulty as I got more and more tired, and I can tell you my hardest ticks were the easiest graded routes on that last day. We had to leave at a certain time to be able to make our plane and the only way I could meet my objective was to climb the last three routes back to back with basically no rest. I was wailing on the final 24, especially when I discovered its top bolts were missing.<br />
<br />
Anyway, I somehow made it and got it done:<br />
<ul>
<li>Glass Slipper 29 - 2nd shot</li>
<li>Homophobia 28 - 2nd shot</li>
<li>Bustin' Down The Door 27 - 2nd shot</li>
<li>Root Canal 26/7 - flash</li>
<li>She Magic 26 - flash </li>
<li>Super Funky 25 - 2nd shot</li>
<li>Fuck The Law 25 - 3rd shot! </li>
<li>Heavy Petting 25 (maybe 23/4?) - onsight </li>
<li>It's A Boy 24 - onsight</li>
</ul>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjIJSQDFk0_R0u_zUjVg0eOktDDs0Exk6fPmzWqULXcw0eSfX1_IjjstHPllY-1TPuo6WQhwyVWEshyphenhyphenz-n-p2OaE-v2UZ6sP_cWB48yUN5Hc7Y9SDdzKpI0F9GhU7mTpD-v_zUtlaseiNr/s1600/IMG_7552-MOTION.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjIJSQDFk0_R0u_zUjVg0eOktDDs0Exk6fPmzWqULXcw0eSfX1_IjjstHPllY-1TPuo6WQhwyVWEshyphenhyphenz-n-p2OaE-v2UZ6sP_cWB48yUN5Hc7Y9SDdzKpI0F9GhU7mTpD-v_zUtlaseiNr/s400/IMG_7552-MOTION.gif" height="267" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This cut-loose and clip sequence was on the flash of Root Canal 26/7.<br />
Hope this doesn't induce seizures or vomiting.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
What really stuck me about Kalbarri was the rock. I loved the perfect, clean rock shelves to belay from. No need for rope bags here. I loved the different textures in the rock, and the deep rich oranges. This is ancient, ancient sandstone - over 300 million years old. The sun was blazing but we were cool in the shade.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjVrdHVJnnkgGrHD6KECSQzgly-8mKT_SZSz4DCyNVlnAJinZHJAMfRu1HiCBiVFDdaK6kgIBcfqukuzx3-UAU9s7_T_5m5qjaZTIK7-CcfsugJuGEtBD3aXpCiGRwrlxyesZH4O-i1d1c/s1600/5d8f00a2cf6711e2851d22000a1fb71f_7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjVrdHVJnnkgGrHD6KECSQzgly-8mKT_SZSz4DCyNVlnAJinZHJAMfRu1HiCBiVFDdaK6kgIBcfqukuzx3-UAU9s7_T_5m5qjaZTIK7-CcfsugJuGEtBD3aXpCiGRwrlxyesZH4O-i1d1c/s400/5d8f00a2cf6711e2851d22000a1fb71f_7.jpg" height="400" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rock texture instagram</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Here's a few final pics to help me remember what a great micro-trip this was...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpzpXXjQCxERgw95VVhpFocNanrxAElz_DMzqM9ltvmGqBtfmThL2oinPQUyoaj8wX1hZ_DYKWWTP3IKn_5Ks8_tFNJklDryLRus0H-qKPGoDHe_GTnRVLnWV-FNywkmHH1f22pt7zaM6V/s1600/IMG_7489.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpzpXXjQCxERgw95VVhpFocNanrxAElz_DMzqM9ltvmGqBtfmThL2oinPQUyoaj8wX1hZ_DYKWWTP3IKn_5Ks8_tFNJklDryLRus0H-qKPGoDHe_GTnRVLnWV-FNywkmHH1f22pt7zaM6V/s400/IMG_7489.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Discovering the rock on Crankshaft 24</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxpmtxzbAyLejh9WoxuHut-qWrH_eWV5UJNDSU8Q6hzyEmzCom-CR4qUg5gUn0B9kjKKwJ3SLWiZwm02RVCZuR_gKt3kdJJNqcVCGhxeTO67mkrs9wqoF-1AKTMPIRrvq_ttGQj_hFhSdZ/s1600/IMG_7510.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxpmtxzbAyLejh9WoxuHut-qWrH_eWV5UJNDSU8Q6hzyEmzCom-CR4qUg5gUn0B9kjKKwJ3SLWiZwm02RVCZuR_gKt3kdJJNqcVCGhxeTO67mkrs9wqoF-1AKTMPIRrvq_ttGQj_hFhSdZ/s640/IMG_7510.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sam on Obscene Gesture 18</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJlmMZ9jZddfgaVSEQmJUnkX6qC9pG4sPoMSlDYNuvTrqxooLqc8IGvIw2VIe5si_b2aQDC__yiclg3nyGR8lmCjsOA8aVNkGMFTfXSdVB0ctqPjyI-uvGTQjw6_fDHTxkbEzLJZ_vsk1L/s1600/IMG_7527.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJlmMZ9jZddfgaVSEQmJUnkX6qC9pG4sPoMSlDYNuvTrqxooLqc8IGvIw2VIe5si_b2aQDC__yiclg3nyGR8lmCjsOA8aVNkGMFTfXSdVB0ctqPjyI-uvGTQjw6_fDHTxkbEzLJZ_vsk1L/s400/IMG_7527.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I think this one was Bustin' Down The Door 27</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizpMAPj_MRja8P0YAl67Y4UdvkXHfTM-hCCgfzzf9b8e0TcNZnTTW-lyfPLQN5HchVD5EhqoQl1rFKzOqwFr1-UUyGgKMgCu8YPvpSzg8hlNcAZ5nucLXeU19ZgWautgDzwagbiTOIr1aK/s1600/IMG_7589.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizpMAPj_MRja8P0YAl67Y4UdvkXHfTM-hCCgfzzf9b8e0TcNZnTTW-lyfPLQN5HchVD5EhqoQl1rFKzOqwFr1-UUyGgKMgCu8YPvpSzg8hlNcAZ5nucLXeU19ZgWautgDzwagbiTOIr1aK/s400/IMG_7589.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wow!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNdA0Y9yRP3SrJfESWKp5WOODxgW4Mu1tFJvZ-p7i_2uoVvNTHEPD4ENwsytYwxde8Iqj_aXgLO5T8fViIpbMOj5cohcOEqAxycpHBDtY1mpwbACcb71D0JYCgg3AzhuRI2g9nH4rpRLFo/s1600/IMG_7628.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNdA0Y9yRP3SrJfESWKp5WOODxgW4Mu1tFJvZ-p7i_2uoVvNTHEPD4ENwsytYwxde8Iqj_aXgLO5T8fViIpbMOj5cohcOEqAxycpHBDtY1mpwbACcb71D0JYCgg3AzhuRI2g9nH4rpRLFo/s400/IMG_7628.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chilling on the diving board finish of Glass Ceiling 29. So good.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh64d6wx45WPK-fNbkTeHPSq0qsYOWwDykgf_6Za6i0Z-oS1uOApHFumR8haDDpFXDhbMlsIKFTN9anroSmyAJkEl22BbJdRa6vsF6Ww8VsFnKN_XVS1TNsDDD-X_pV3OKKkhUSH7UgnEzd/s1600/IMG_7768.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh64d6wx45WPK-fNbkTeHPSq0qsYOWwDykgf_6Za6i0Z-oS1uOApHFumR8haDDpFXDhbMlsIKFTN9anroSmyAJkEl22BbJdRa6vsF6Ww8VsFnKN_XVS1TNsDDD-X_pV3OKKkhUSH7UgnEzd/s400/IMG_7768.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My man JJ put in every last ounce of juice and finished off Root Canal at the death.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Nearly all pics here are from JJ (<a href="http://jjobrienclimbing.blogspot.com/">http://jjobrienclimbing.blogspot.com</a>). No doubt we'll see a few pearlers come through the <a href="http://www.onsight.com.au/" target="_blank">Onsight Photography</a> media house at some point too.<br />
<br />
I felt so happy and at peace here. If you have the chance to go - do!<div class="blogger-post-footer"><br/><br/>Lee Cujes</div>Lee Cujeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-91746809808907992102013-04-17T11:34:00.001+10:002023-07-23T11:52:53.386+10:00Queensland Climbing feature in Ascent Magazine 2013<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoyIE0HCRKQPKnKQ6P1O6h3hSB631sxw3qACUdscp_2Rqu9rd10HsiufSafiIREVmj3n67x32eQiToE7fasojfmJn7jItJHSHK1JF32mlDuKIbHB4suTAq5DNZAS8oy1BDDTwJkfCwIkB5/s1600/ascent-magazine-2013.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoyIE0HCRKQPKnKQ6P1O6h3hSB631sxw3qACUdscp_2Rqu9rd10HsiufSafiIREVmj3n67x32eQiToE7fasojfmJn7jItJHSHK1JF32mlDuKIbHB4suTAq5DNZAS8oy1BDDTwJkfCwIkB5/s200/ascent-magazine-2013.png" width="149" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kaly cover shot. Not <br />SEQ, but still nice :)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Wow! I was amazed when issue #210 of my R&I subscription arrived and I discovered that there was a Queensland climbing photo-feature article <b><i>"The Wild Walls Down Under"</i></b>. R&I has a circulation of 30,000 and is one of the most recognisable climbing magazines in the world.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.onsight.com.au/" target="_blank">Simon Carter</a>'s photo article really showcases some of the variety our region offers, which is now being admired worldwide.<br />
<br />
Stoked to see some of my first ascents as well as my best mates <a href="http://jjobrienclimbing.blogspot.com.au/" target="_blank">John J O'Brien</a> and Duncan Steel up in lights.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIlJl-_04ITv4C6p9DTkm3ikEQt7deKU0SVqmY4aFhEfV86T2HRgmgTRtzI6daBZiLoRlsQ2dkgQBdyd8Uh_OLOcJwJPs9wRvRt4Z4thgAAL0uCYQia2vbkaf4KJ4SbAe2Unn4wdjRBGVy/s1600/ascent-magazine-2013-page1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIlJl-_04ITv4C6p9DTkm3ikEQt7deKU0SVqmY4aFhEfV86T2HRgmgTRtzI6daBZiLoRlsQ2dkgQBdyd8Uh_OLOcJwJPs9wRvRt4Z4thgAAL0uCYQia2vbkaf4KJ4SbAe2Unn4wdjRBGVy/s320/ascent-magazine-2013-page1.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A couple of my Glasshouse first ascents. Pitiless (left) remains Glasshouses' hardest, while Stainless (Anti)climb is historic, being the first time these aid pitches have been freed.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDqe0KpsJAxnTbgXtJf19TgfVq3pNXx6wfC0D87BA_4U9m3GFXpI_3Bsaphhb75lid2Q5kXL-rwp5zhKOWjDe-8eVG2DmXWgbsAFh_ngn0Ns4PRI8M4DrRtsMuUTKxdxksvzz_q6MyKd58/s1600/ascent-magazine-2013-page2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDqe0KpsJAxnTbgXtJf19TgfVq3pNXx6wfC0D87BA_4U9m3GFXpI_3Bsaphhb75lid2Q5kXL-rwp5zhKOWjDe-8eVG2DmXWgbsAFh_ngn0Ns4PRI8M4DrRtsMuUTKxdxksvzz_q6MyKd58/s320/ascent-magazine-2013-page2.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Duncan cranking our hard trad at Frog Buttress.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXSOvgnf4Ar_3ThVhyRhjEKYyM8n8TtiDVS_1XpTI_VBp8Y5O0kbitNlFkRx_AcTFATkGkWRPo9ZIaFbnKaqFT7UDuqaqIMvLQlQhRKOeUXlY4ntOxKNDC-EFGSXtIJSPAkscjF1FNel_j/s1600/ascent-magazine-2013-page3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXSOvgnf4Ar_3ThVhyRhjEKYyM8n8TtiDVS_1XpTI_VBp8Y5O0kbitNlFkRx_AcTFATkGkWRPo9ZIaFbnKaqFT7UDuqaqIMvLQlQhRKOeUXlY4ntOxKNDC-EFGSXtIJSPAkscjF1FNel_j/s320/ascent-magazine-2013-page3.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sabina (left) scored the cover of Simon and my guidebook to the region with this ascent of Aphelion 22 on Tibro, while Alex Straw (right) is hanging upside down on the top of my unrepeated route Bite The Hand That Feeds 31, which the project Taking Care of Business joins at Mt Coolum.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-oTMIjScMWFaIqysN9xAd0Fg3N3tqrn6ZbygnTxTG7DU2HxTX3RDNT5BCwVZiduJWOOlp3KanYqEQvdlUBzXQ5cxQOXatkDVMQ3voripIG1pOcbMULpyg7LcTLf8imvWVZH5sK4d2ee9v/s1600/ascent-magazine-2013-page4.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-oTMIjScMWFaIqysN9xAd0Fg3N3tqrn6ZbygnTxTG7DU2HxTX3RDNT5BCwVZiduJWOOlp3KanYqEQvdlUBzXQ5cxQOXatkDVMQ3voripIG1pOcbMULpyg7LcTLf8imvWVZH5sK4d2ee9v/s320/ascent-magazine-2013-page4.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">JJ O'Brien climbing the route we established Black Leather Dungarees 26, Mt Coolum. And a picture of a grater.</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer"><br/><br/>Lee Cujes</div>Lee Cujeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-18934372302641618462013-04-05T11:58:00.001+11:002013-04-05T11:58:54.964+11:00Video: Frederick PeakTownsville, located in North Queensland strikes fear into the hearts of hipsters and the trendy southern yuppie, but it holds a special place in my heart as I began my climbing career in Townsville while at University.<br />
<br />
The most well-known crag Mount Stuart occupied most of my time, and though Frederick Peak was visible to the north west of the city, gates and 4WD access kept it out of my cross-hairs. Another 10 years, and these minor inconveniences have been overcome, and a new generation of climbers have been blessed with a greenfields playground for establishing new routes in almost every style.<br />
<br />
It's true, the remote location and slightly tricky access will ensure this crag never be crowded, but for the climbers of the region, Frederick Peak is a <u>major</u> drawcard. Based on number of routes, uniqueness and quality, it's probably Australia's most significant new crag "discovery" in the last 10 years.<br />
<br />
I've been back a couple of times (read about the first <a href="http://www.upskillclimbing.com/2009/08/hyper-bowl-hyperbole.html" target="_blank">here</a>), hosted by the <a href="http://3lostmonkeys.blogspot.com.au/" target="_blank">Three Monkeys</a>, who are a triple-barbed missile of bad heavy-metal music and new routing enthusiasm. On both trips I was able to put up some great routes, and repeat some great routes too.<br />
<br />
On the last trip, we also teamed up with the indomitable Gareth Llewellin who was keen to use his new camera to capture some pics and video. The video he put together was an introduction to the area, and contains a rather lengthy and somewhat embarrassing monologue by me. This was featured in Vertical Life magazine issue 4. Scroll down for the video, and grab issue #4 of Vertical Life while you're at it. Good stuff, and free. How do they do it?<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7g349bz46cyC7vUvjs2Rt6Vjxhe5sgBC7IE0uyFVl-0-q5lv25fhUZrlqVSwGWguU_K1bGCnUMn5jGmvKyagDcROkz192jeSQUlERitMQKtX3rQLPaAGodkOW9AG4_0cw8RaslRcxB90o/s1600/Screen+shot+2013-04-05+at+10.39.58+AM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="183" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7g349bz46cyC7vUvjs2Rt6Vjxhe5sgBC7IE0uyFVl-0-q5lv25fhUZrlqVSwGWguU_K1bGCnUMn5jGmvKyagDcROkz192jeSQUlERitMQKtX3rQLPaAGodkOW9AG4_0cw8RaslRcxB90o/s400/Screen+shot+2013-04-05+at+10.39.58+AM.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.verticallifemag.com.au/wp-content/plugins/download-monitor/download.php?id=22" target="_blank">Download PDF of issue 4</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6TASNQPB5G_RkjMSoefA3VDOJ7yLBYgbw9LFpnatNtlddnbeqBYTxL2CAZ9H05ng69y9n4f0_M_XlD3UNY0hrwJ8FzBhUVSYACvqAMPfuabml4FBMFTc5UsR4Z_tg-xPYpROoVwtF-ZDO/s1600/Screen+shot+2013-04-05+at+10.12.06+AM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6TASNQPB5G_RkjMSoefA3VDOJ7yLBYgbw9LFpnatNtlddnbeqBYTxL2CAZ9H05ng69y9n4f0_M_XlD3UNY0hrwJ8FzBhUVSYACvqAMPfuabml4FBMFTc5UsR4Z_tg-xPYpROoVwtF-ZDO/s400/Screen+shot+2013-04-05+at+10.12.06+AM.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Profiled on the <a href="http://www.verticallifemag.com.au/" target="_blank">Vertical Life</a> site<br />
Me repeating Monty's terrific 'White Gold' extension 27, Frederick Peak (c) Gareth Llewellin</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="242" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/59036638" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="430"></iframe> <br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/59036638">Climbing in Townsville - Winter 2012</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user16295526">Gareth Llewellin</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
<br />
And if that's got you Frederick-frothing, check out the <a href="http://www.qurank.com/guides/Guide_Frederick.pdf" target="_blank">guidebook</a>:<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjiUjuP2Vs0ntUewysQyuQK-K2x5f29sVO7-p2DLhJgvJFEz5oyY_9A-LAgw7eIzb2GA_jyilUpcr-U54pyO9CcCXQjoa5GeYdUxsUi-NAujrX8i7NCXZNt0vfVjBAvliO4mCpo13y031f/s1600/Screen+shot+2013-04-05+at+10.50.12+AM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjiUjuP2Vs0ntUewysQyuQK-K2x5f29sVO7-p2DLhJgvJFEz5oyY_9A-LAgw7eIzb2GA_jyilUpcr-U54pyO9CcCXQjoa5GeYdUxsUi-NAujrX8i7NCXZNt0vfVjBAvliO4mCpo13y031f/s400/Screen+shot+2013-04-05+at+10.50.12+AM.png" width="281" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.qurank.com/guides/Guide_Frederick.pdf" target="_blank">Download PDF</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="blogger-post-footer"><br/><br/>Lee Cujes</div>Lee Cujeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-68013783413402367192013-04-02T23:03:00.000+11:002013-04-02T23:04:19.081+11:00Video: Climb PerpendicularNew video from our Easter roadtrip to Point Perpendicular, Australia's best known sandstone seacliff. Something different in this video was our use of a flying drone to capture a unique perspective on these amazing cliffs. Enjoy. <br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="242" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/63079357" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="430"></iframe> <br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/63079357">Climb Perpendicular</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/upskillclimbing">Upskill Climbing</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><br/><br/>Lee Cujes</div>Lee Cujeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-37311412100203072422012-12-24T17:34:00.000+11:002013-11-22T21:19:54.716+11:00An analysis of climbing on the island of Kalymnos with respect to new routes, the safety of fixed hardware, and route maintenance now and in the future<b>Preface:</b><br />
I love Kalymnos, and I care about the future of climbing on the island. I wrote this paper in 2010 and submitted it for consideration by some of the key climbers and rebolters on Kalymnos, and I was keen for the Municipality to see it also. With <a href="http://climbkalymnos.com/?p=6792" target="_blank">news of the upcoming "bolting festival" in October-November 2013</a>, I now publish the paper as an "open letter" to any and all interested parties.<br />
<h3>
<b>An analysis of climbing on the island of Kalymnos with respect to new routes, the safety of fixed hardware, and route maintenance now and in the future. </b><b><br />
</b></h3>
<b>Lee Cujes, 2 June 2010</b><br />
<b></b><br />
<b><i></i></b><br />
<center>
<b><i>"Since then, approximately 100 routes were maintained every 1-2 years (replacing corroded bolts and lower-offs). This is certainly not as frequent as we would like, and the number of routes being maintained each time is very limited compared to the grand total of routes on Kalymnos"</i></b></center>
<b> <i> </i></b><br />
<b><i>-- Aris Theodoropolous, Guidebook author and Kalymnos route developer</i><br />
<br />
Issue: Route volume and quality<br />
</b><br />
The number of new routes being established per year on Kalymnos is not decreasing. We have ~2300+ routes on Kalymnos already, with more every year. As more of the available rock is developed, we would expect to see (and encourage) fewer routes being established each year. It is important to encourage quality rather than quantity, as poor quality routes decrease the overall quality of Kalymnos climbing. Furthermore, doubling the number of routes on the island will not double the number of climbers, nor will it double revenue for the island. Nor will it even spread the impact of climbing – 90% of climbers into the future will continue to climb at only the major existing sectors, as it is these sectors which offer the highest quality climbing.<br />
<br />
<b>Recommendations:</b><br />
<ol>
<li>Withdraw Municipality funding for new routes [<i>edit: it is my understanding that this has happened some years ago, however corporate sponsorship of foreign route developers continues</i>]. This was useful in the birth phase of Kalymnos climbing as it encouraged rapid development, but we are beyond this phase now. </li>
<li>Channel funds from all existing bolt funds that may exist on the island (<a href="http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=2953" target="_blank">example - Glaros</a>) into rebolting, rather than new routing (ensuring climbers who donate know what they are donating for). As elsewhere in the world, motivated new routers will fund their own routes. We should see the number of new routes decrease to a more sensible level, and the quality of routes maintaining a high standard.</li>
</ol>
<b>Hardware Issue #1: Corrosion of hardware on fixed routes</b><br />
<br />
Bolts are not permanent. Especially on limestone and near the sea, we see significant corrosion within just a couple of years. This is also true in areas where the water transfer through the rock is high (i.e. anywhere with tufas e.g. Grande Grotta, Ghost Kitchen etc.) It is vital that routes are inspected and rebolted as required.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZmhdRFbOez3vQOaQIe6o4kZLaAaEdAZJ_bbrtOgOWiUFGH7J5pNKpS30-vXxpZraYWNSZN7EaFD1Siz1T94bHXhn6CtVQLOezoa_34KRXoT1hDaZphL9T1NxN9M6ODHiq9fukaSA0TKq-/s1600/ghost-kitchen-anchor.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZmhdRFbOez3vQOaQIe6o4kZLaAaEdAZJ_bbrtOgOWiUFGH7J5pNKpS30-vXxpZraYWNSZN7EaFD1Siz1T94bHXhn6CtVQLOezoa_34KRXoT1hDaZphL9T1NxN9M6ODHiq9fukaSA0TKq-/s1600/ghost-kitchen-anchor.png" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
<i>Figure 1: Unsafe, corroded anchor at Ghost Kitchen</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4JuFXzpRG5JcBurP0gP2UzaLhjgozDY5eCnqeFljnyGAIqLEeIzmGxaDkgNK5louk9x2OBFJlT7FrMXh0I4bnakYTi1019UJswTRdDpNrlHSJCQKgIjzT3fUMJsFbUmYZCQ4R0tTejhNE/s1600/vathy-bolt.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4JuFXzpRG5JcBurP0gP2UzaLhjgozDY5eCnqeFljnyGAIqLEeIzmGxaDkgNK5louk9x2OBFJlT7FrMXh0I4bnakYTi1019UJswTRdDpNrlHSJCQKgIjzT3fUMJsFbUmYZCQ4R0tTejhNE/s1600/vathy-bolt.png" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Figure 2: Corrosion can also occur because of two </i><br />
<i>dissimilar metals as shown here on a relatively<br />
new route on the Vathy road sector</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc1i66FM8cH_qx1tb7Xk99XlN7-1wim3LrcxH24DEzFGWS3nrUPvf0iyUx7hgvppU3yUcApCwEssEn8h9O0Y5tLzxCab6hR0LdD5AXvbMYC8wqVUjWIF2NBh00RTrtJoJ07SilFmp4x9DV/s1600/very-dodgy-gk-anchor.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc1i66FM8cH_qx1tb7Xk99XlN7-1wim3LrcxH24DEzFGWS3nrUPvf0iyUx7hgvppU3yUcApCwEssEn8h9O0Y5tLzxCab6hR0LdD5AXvbMYC8wqVUjWIF2NBh00RTrtJoJ07SilFmp4x9DV/s1600/very-dodgy-gk-anchor.png" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Figure 3: Climbers are too afraid to trust this <br />
corroded anchor on Ghost Kitchen. They tie their <br />
own slings and carabiner as backup</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Hardware Issue #2: Wear of hardware on fixed routes</b><br />
<ol>
<li>Anchors in certain areas receive a lot of wear (the rope wears and cuts into the metal) and need to be replaced regularly, in some cases every year. There has recently been some <a href="http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/knowledge/qc-lab-dangers-of-rope-worn-carabiners" target="_blank">analysis from Black Diamond showing how worn carabiners can cut rope</a>.</li>
<li>Bolts that are repeatedly fallen on can loosen in the hole and deform, especially in softer or more 'active' limestone. This can lead to failure of the bolt.</li>
</ol>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKZWnHTAbRd2GhOyCe8yi76CV6YhH9SPBZFqCzSC3WYdKZox7CAJWE6EGWHAHkoikI-tUPo9C_XIl5FvLy9NBDqsCgpAG6rk6VdU-WOzUeF8voKnvfpoFtvPAJfjF_zqiSt5UC6Twyg-OR/s1600/Kalymnos_Worn_Anchor02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKZWnHTAbRd2GhOyCe8yi76CV6YhH9SPBZFqCzSC3WYdKZox7CAJWE6EGWHAHkoikI-tUPo9C_XIl5FvLy9NBDqsCgpAG6rk6VdU-WOzUeF8voKnvfpoFtvPAJfjF_zqiSt5UC6Twyg-OR/s200/Kalymnos_Worn_Anchor02.jpg" width="183" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Figure 4: Dangerously worn lower-off anchor.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<ul></ul>
<b>Hardware Issue #3: Bolt choice</b><br />
<br />
The trubolt is the most typical bolt used on most Kalymnos routes. However, it is not the best choice.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ9TPeSHyFSs5U1oK7lBmjionTat1J6FBkfm4IzroCjxDc6jXycIeO8dlYm76-9tYIWDXK6Yyr3YaGPpVSVPhh_FKuKfkCGGIlTHJV6zn1hWVawmkYEcgQvTxiIJXmH45Rx0Sz6mpaV432/s1600/trubolt.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ9TPeSHyFSs5U1oK7lBmjionTat1J6FBkfm4IzroCjxDc6jXycIeO8dlYm76-9tYIWDXK6Yyr3YaGPpVSVPhh_FKuKfkCGGIlTHJV6zn1hWVawmkYEcgQvTxiIJXmH45Rx0Sz6mpaV432/s1600/trubolt.png" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Figure 4: Trubolt</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<u><i>Pros</i></u><br />
<ol>
<li>Easy and quick to place</li>
<li>Can be used immediately (important for equipping steep routes)</li>
</ol>
<u><i>Cons</i></u><br />
<ol>
<li>Cannot be extracted from the hole to allow for clean replacement. Must be cut off using a cordless grinder and then beaten back into hole and the hole patched with epoxy and camouflaged.</li>
<li>Because the thread sits exposed from the nut, it can foul the carabiner leading to dangerous orientation of the carabiner. There are <a href="http://www.8a.nu/forum/ViewForumThread.aspx?ObjectId=8388&ObjectClass=CLS_UserNewsComment&CountryCode=GLOBAL" target="_blank">cases where this has led to a carabiner snapping</a>.</li>
<li>Sideways forces on the hanger cause the nut to loosen. If the nut loosens completely, the hanger falls off and the climber has no protection. This happened to me recently <u>during a fall</u>. I was very lucky to escape injury. Many routes are missing hangers due to this issue. </li>
</ol>
<br />
<b>Recommendations:</b><br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: right;">
</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhsX5nNqnvd-6q9bbQgauRhalJhPRTKQOIPxUON2CQWxICafnig5pTpiMDCvGAmGgsNfDojI8x3t3kbysS_7MeeLc-tlMp6iz5zZB-bsHLDYvIXHwBBs4XkcAXBfGSB2TcfQOHf_XFPje1/s1600/titanium-glue-in-bolt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhsX5nNqnvd-6q9bbQgauRhalJhPRTKQOIPxUON2CQWxICafnig5pTpiMDCvGAmGgsNfDojI8x3t3kbysS_7MeeLc-tlMp6iz5zZB-bsHLDYvIXHwBBs4XkcAXBfGSB2TcfQOHf_XFPje1/s200/titanium-glue-in-bolt.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Figure 5: Titanium glue-in bolt. <br />
The best long-term solution. </i><br />
<i>To </i><i>purchase these, visit:</i> <br /><a href="http://www.titanclimbing.com/">http://www.titanclimbing.com</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<i>1. Corrosion</i><br />
<i>Option 1 (mandatory):</i> Continual assessment and rebolting with high grade (316) stainless steel as required. "316 L" is the low carbon version of 316 stainless steel and has been found to have even better corrosion resistance. Hardware is available in 316 L.<i> </i><br />
<br />
<i>Option 2 (possible):</i> Thailand climbing areas have moved to titanium glue-in bolts and <a href="https://www.google.com.au/search?q=hilti+re-500&hl=en&safe=off&client=firefox-a&hs=H01&tbo=d&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=IOnXUIKrFs6jiQeb04HYBQ&ved=0CAoQ_AUoAA&biw=1397&bih=775" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Hilti RE-500 epoxy glue</a> for maximum corrosion resistance and longevity. It is suggested Kalymnos also obtain these (more expensive) bolts for use on the most corrosive sectors.<br />
<br />
<i>2. Wear</i><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVrtC3A36p05Wvl6pYoO5CumyFjhjnDbBL7UI6-kysuHlhoFKcGYDpumBqeFjvnPB-CNWFvXBz4EwNDunXHBoRS-5qvWm9uLGxSJtgmU4zQDsMijHoUVxetQJGmR0cmPSSkgAIWiVaeoMD/s1600/anchor-replacement.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVrtC3A36p05Wvl6pYoO5CumyFjhjnDbBL7UI6-kysuHlhoFKcGYDpumBqeFjvnPB-CNWFvXBz4EwNDunXHBoRS-5qvWm9uLGxSJtgmU4zQDsMijHoUVxetQJGmR0cmPSSkgAIWiVaeoMD/s1600/anchor-replacement.png" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><style>
</style> <br />
<div class="MsoCaption">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">Figure </span></i><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;">6:</span></span></i><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"> An anchor is replaced, <br />
leaving bolt remains and <br />
ugly scars on the rock. <br />
This is unnecessary, yet<br />
this kind of damage is <br />
widespread.</span></i></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
There are several options for anchors which are replaceable without having to install a completely new anchor in a new position (this is a horrible worst case scenario, yet is the most common form here currently on Kalymnos). Glue-in threaded rod allows the same bolts to be re-used. Quickclips attached with mallions allow for the wearing component only to be replaced. The more the type of anchor set on the island is standardised, the easier ongoing replacement will become.<br />
<br />
<i>3. Bolt choice</i><br />
For new routes, discontinue using trubolts. Instead, use 12mm x 75mm flush-head dynabolts of the following configuration: <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-xJYxv2XkK7h0_sWGvItXIUlKU7-4AGqdZYLO75KZFH_LBlIHAyQwRMxmdomfsNahv1kEmV2Ja4xjAu-ow-cgivIJu-1RCmGvuiIcj9LKIwy5MF19RcQd0UAllbql_Pd5LNGTcXeg7Jzr/s1600/flushhead-dynabolts.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="154" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-xJYxv2XkK7h0_sWGvItXIUlKU7-4AGqdZYLO75KZFH_LBlIHAyQwRMxmdomfsNahv1kEmV2Ja4xjAu-ow-cgivIJu-1RCmGvuiIcj9LKIwy5MF19RcQd0UAllbql_Pd5LNGTcXeg7Jzr/s320/flushhead-dynabolts.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Figure 7: 12mm Flush-head dynabolt - a better choice than trubolts.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Flush-heads offer all the advantages of the trubolt, and eliminate many of the disadvantages. They are replaceable, they have a low profile and do not snag carabiners as readily, and they do not loosen as easily as trubolts.<br />
<br />
<b>Issue: Maintenance and rebolting</b><br />
<br />
Kalymnos has a reputation as a haven of ‘safe bolting’. This is important to many climbers who come here and is a reputation worth protecting.<br />
<br />
Rebolting <u>is happening</u> on the island, however the following issues have been identified: <br />
<ol>
<li>The poor quality of <u>some</u> of the rebolting work</li>
<li>The fact that trubolts are being replaced with more trubolts, instead of taking the opportunity to upgrade to the best, highest-longevity solution (glue-in ringbolts) </li>
<li>The fact that there is not enough rebolting occurring to keep up with the wear and corrosion on the ever-increasing number of routes on the island. The generally thankless task of rebolting is left to just a few motivated individuals.</li>
</ol>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinX2S0vZ23p7eJbuRPqE2ax24glxqHRgqI9YuLTmm40wIqZUyaZ6iKiej2wyHQV0_riyK7SmB8F47EMGNCnrga1FG_AEWWKNfGYroX2QSZ-nSrTXQvV0atlT9YPxDXB-hz_x4gQQxzU-Rm/s1600/appaling-poets-sector.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinX2S0vZ23p7eJbuRPqE2ax24glxqHRgqI9YuLTmm40wIqZUyaZ6iKiej2wyHQV0_riyK7SmB8F47EMGNCnrga1FG_AEWWKNfGYroX2QSZ-nSrTXQvV0atlT9YPxDXB-hz_x4gQQxzU-Rm/s1600/appaling-poets-sector.png" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Figure 8: Seven holes drilled and not patched. <br />
Poets sector.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuf55oBD23vjcMUwTy84q9LlD_zShM4mDwGcAmCcXP4Ox2dKFESNXhgGBUhGSrMNkz_qINGx33WuZGRUlnTTsUGUsXAR3iKAkDDMf72T-Gu7IDYSnEySR7qCimXcSEB-mADeaS1oUxwC5e/s1600/trubolt-stud.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuf55oBD23vjcMUwTy84q9LlD_zShM4mDwGcAmCcXP4Ox2dKFESNXhgGBUhGSrMNkz_qINGx33WuZGRUlnTTsUGUsXAR3iKAkDDMf72T-Gu7IDYSnEySR7qCimXcSEB-mADeaS1oUxwC5e/s1600/trubolt-stud.png" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Figure 9: Too often this is the case (we see this <br />
at every sector). Because trubolts cannot be <br />
extracted, they are left to rust. This is unsightly <br />
and simply lazy.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Recommendations:</b><i> </i><br />
<br />
<br />
<i>1. Quality: </i><br />
For Kalymnos to retain its reputation and natural beauty, it is inappropriate to allow sub-standard rebolting. Trubolts must be cut, recessed and patched. Old anchors need to be removed in full. Any scars on the rock must be camoflauged. We must strive for all routes to be as perfect as they can be.<br />
<br />
<i>2. Phasing out trubolts: </i><br />
We must rebolt with superior hardware. Therefore we must move to glue-in bolts. These are preferred by all climbers because they are stronger, safer, do not notch climbers’ carabiners, and allow for rope to be directly threaded to allow for retreat from any point on the route if required. They do require more skill to place, but most importantly, they will last much longer in this environment than any form of expansion bolt. In this seaside environment, a minimum specification of 316 or 316 L stainless steel should be mandated, with titanium preferred as the best possible option (see: <a href="http://www.upskillclimbing.com/2011/03/titanium-bolts-answer-for-thailand.html" target="_blank">Thailand titanium rebolting article</a>).<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1-xybS9mIMiqDmlA_wSJeXMo8RJD5WEDSC4DhXSQVe2Sav4HTNP4LQaFKQdn6tksbSCj7yEQ0kdmVdLy2reTPB7Nrmtum5rLm7I0sQ1pQ69oKEduzWad8gAbvyNi6NaErvatPs2Sth1JP/s1600/glue-in-ringbolt.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1-xybS9mIMiqDmlA_wSJeXMo8RJD5WEDSC4DhXSQVe2Sav4HTNP4LQaFKQdn6tksbSCj7yEQ0kdmVdLy2reTPB7Nrmtum5rLm7I0sQ1pQ69oKEduzWad8gAbvyNi6NaErvatPs2Sth1JP/s1600/glue-in-ringbolt.png" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Figure 10: 316 stainless glue-in ringbolt, correctly recessed.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<i>3. Establishment of a centralised hub for bolting/rebolting</i><br />
<ol>
<li>Online and offline method for climbers to report “bad bolts/routes” for inspection.</li>
<li> Online “to-do” list with routes and sectors scheduled for rebolting/maintenance.</li>
<li>Online and offline methods for visiting climbers to donate money to the rebolting initiative. If even a small fraction of the money entering the Kalymnian economy by climbers went towards rebolting, this would ensure the initiative could be appropriately funded. </li>
<li>Online database of rebolted routes to show how the money is being spent, exactly what hardware is used etc. (<a href="http://www.chockstone.org/Rebolting/RoutesQld.asp?Sort=Date" target="_blank">Example of such a database</a>) </li>
</ol>
<ul></ul>
<i>4. Dedicated focus on ongoing maintenance and rebolting</i><br />
One or more rebolting specialists must be engaged by the Municipality (or corporate sponsors) to conduct the required work every year, on an ongoing basis. The Municipality has spent a great deal of money establishing Kalymnos as one of the world’s premier climbing destinations (by investing in new routes), however we must continue to maintain and protect that investment in the long term. This requires an ongoing financial commitment. <br />
<br />
<b>Conclusion</b><br />
<br />
I would like to offer thanks and gratitude to those climbers such as Aris Theodoropolous and Simon Montmory who have contributed serious time and effort to rebolting on Kalymnos. This article is not a criticism, rather a call to action.<br />
<br />
I believe a combination of both local commitment (Municipality), corporate commitment (sponsored initiatives) and commitment from climbers themselves (via donations) will provide the assistance necessary to fund the recommendations in this article.<br />
<br />
As the world's premier sport climbing destination, Kalymnos deserves ongoing care and ongoing investment.<br />
<br />
<b>Other resources:</b><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.safercliffs.org/code/bolt_guide.html" target="_blank">Safer Cliffs bolt guide</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64604" target="_blank">UKC Article - Bad Bolts on Kalymnos - 2011</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=2953" target="_blank">UKC Article - INTERVIEW: Kalymnos Bolt Fund exceeds €10,000 - 2010 </a></li>
<li><a href="http://climbkalymnos.com/?page_id=2#equiping" target="_blank">Climb Kalymnos - New Route Guidelines for Kalymnos</a></li>
<li><a href="http://climbkalymnos.com/?page_id=2#anchor" target="_blank">Climb Kalymnos - Anchor Replacement - facts and figures</a></li>
</ul>
<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer"><br/><br/>Lee Cujes</div>Lee Cujeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-70725291621694276592012-11-25T23:12:00.001+11:002012-11-25T23:13:16.888+11:00Prime EvilIt's been almost a year since I've been to <span style="color: purple;"><b>Mt Coolum</b></span>. But last weekend there were some huge storms predicted and apart from an indoor gym, Coolum is the only possible option. There's been a few routes go up since I've been gone, and one of them is <b>Prime Evil</b> (29/8a/13b). This (like a bunch of other routes) shares the start of my 2008 first ascent <a href="http://www.upskillclimbing.com/2008/07/evil-my-hardest-route-yet.html" target="_blank">Evil Wears No Pants</a> before breaking left and taking in a series of boulder problems and outright rests. Very stop-start, and in true Coolum fashion, pretty weird.<br />
<br />
I put a couple of burns in with Jimmy who had already done the route and was kind enough to swap some beta (he was working my route <a href="http://www.upskillclimbing.com/2010/02/bite-hand-that-feeds.html" target="_blank">Bite The Hand That Feeds</a>). I did some good links, and it is always fun remembering how to climb the tricky, 70 degree overhung start of Evil. Yesterday, I dispatched the route on my second try - fourth all up.<br />
<br />
John O'Brien was there with the camera and captured some of the action, and some of the sitting around...<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDnOKmUhrBplEyxLL_tLCtFfqhmzywJmsC_gfr3UIYwfU0TF7hmTPEAK744zGYBOryKJSe5CzFSwRXuOEFNgmdkASngub1-pvgQPCaGa7gdgnyTj5hu06ZBctrnovP-iVJZa7474NcapAF/s1600/IMG_0013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDnOKmUhrBplEyxLL_tLCtFfqhmzywJmsC_gfr3UIYwfU0TF7hmTPEAK744zGYBOryKJSe5CzFSwRXuOEFNgmdkASngub1-pvgQPCaGa7gdgnyTj5hu06ZBctrnovP-iVJZa7474NcapAF/s400/IMG_0013.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is the handy kneebar you get at the end of the first section of Evil. It's bomber.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDC_vyFV2iwreO9TmRW4O5FJCK-Ud_Jh8EJPsTbu6gs8qLEvSmz9AdJ9zu49184bH_81Ai_A4jHgJ2-lJQ4Jte57pOLkxkIqwIwb0QkzA3UeDeegwQI3SGKmSTzEPaoYaXGo9h19NFdPO2/s1600/IMG_0070.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDC_vyFV2iwreO9TmRW4O5FJCK-Ud_Jh8EJPsTbu6gs8qLEvSmz9AdJ9zu49184bH_81Ai_A4jHgJ2-lJQ4Jte57pOLkxkIqwIwb0QkzA3UeDeegwQI3SGKmSTzEPaoYaXGo9h19NFdPO2/s400/IMG_0070.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Wildcat move. Slippery slide out of kneebar, catch horn, swing gracefully towards Marcoola.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ4KsZH0MhO84tKxJUWTZtqmbLUXQrsHtJG6InLHqfwIW7cRynrzcjLyj9qiUIH-FJKbwbj7-tE24H2Cgv0jeTJ6nPAxW7Mjs2ldmiThO0tk_8Us5xeCjVi6ARDfbndrIZBP-inqH1gDHQ/s1600/IMG_0028.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ4KsZH0MhO84tKxJUWTZtqmbLUXQrsHtJG6InLHqfwIW7cRynrzcjLyj9qiUIH-FJKbwbj7-tE24H2Cgv0jeTJ6nPAxW7Mjs2ldmiThO0tk_8Us5xeCjVi6ARDfbndrIZBP-inqH1gDHQ/s640/IMG_0028.jpg" width="464" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yep, this is a complete sit down on a horn. Throw in a kneebar and toe-hook and all you're lacking is a cool beverage.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlUDEdJ-fbiPyayv0VSe3IStIcu_r4Z6bIYrvDRUJUJ7HKNYyNaLN2aKKWk9hh9oZb19U3om4BBs0DPiXuai3t3FJ5BI7jIw35jKSMqKlocsYN08k56bc-5ZrRpwj9vkSfhppTKmC8yOXc/s1600/IMG_0033.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlUDEdJ-fbiPyayv0VSe3IStIcu_r4Z6bIYrvDRUJUJ7HKNYyNaLN2aKKWk9hh9oZb19U3om4BBs0DPiXuai3t3FJ5BI7jIw35jKSMqKlocsYN08k56bc-5ZrRpwj9vkSfhppTKmC8yOXc/s400/IMG_0033.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I think this is my fave shot. You take a three finger pocket with your right hand and roll around a kneebar to snag a big sloping edge.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMCn3W6iTc9fOgdcbDsL_WrouMyTC7z_QNuHHZe91i-mcRufhsl1eCus_jYrFiwm5Tx0FzjhR4H105wu1PKijpxkds-k5CMrw6Cm9sExiR4Q73O0fCn6KR6mzMjNS58YzgpZJlwuGIvx_M/s1600/IMG_0039.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMCn3W6iTc9fOgdcbDsL_WrouMyTC7z_QNuHHZe91i-mcRufhsl1eCus_jYrFiwm5Tx0FzjhR4H105wu1PKijpxkds-k5CMrw6Cm9sExiR4Q73O0fCn6KR6mzMjNS58YzgpZJlwuGIvx_M/s400/IMG_0039.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You can fall on this move, it's a bit wacky.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguZny3kZJHEDvP5qZnwIhea2deU31siR0bftO5-GSsu-8VpdZ-RldvG-MEAT6OMt45HgqOLPtnJef3tkR_Gk3g0kx2eRUbpkojE53sgBFkmlONA3so-YZiFmS2w8R580lQp0z9irIZtKsc/s1600/IMG_0072.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguZny3kZJHEDvP5qZnwIhea2deU31siR0bftO5-GSsu-8VpdZ-RldvG-MEAT6OMt45HgqOLPtnJef3tkR_Gk3g0kx2eRUbpkojE53sgBFkmlONA3so-YZiFmS2w8R580lQp0z9irIZtKsc/s400/IMG_0072.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My bro, JJ!</td></tr>
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<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer"><br/><br/>Lee Cujes</div>Lee Cujeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-62056387127361930482012-11-03T12:58:00.001+11:002012-11-03T13:04:38.770+11:00Ask The Coach #8: Training Series 3/3: The Seven Deadly Sins<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2UJHSPbTGuLEE3_BqbfRqkA-TWpU4h4HUlTZ29fL5DC1nkE9bLyKYhxQwPWU7XyeMk1PvXDtKz4Ycg2WufRlbtmeBSVmi1S_ongCd1QcawQdvaigC2sCr5AMHAXxMTIFfZYSYWF7a_2xp/s1600/rock-91.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2UJHSPbTGuLEE3_BqbfRqkA-TWpU4h4HUlTZ29fL5DC1nkE9bLyKYhxQwPWU7XyeMk1PvXDtKz4Ycg2WufRlbtmeBSVmi1S_ongCd1QcawQdvaigC2sCr5AMHAXxMTIFfZYSYWF7a_2xp/s200/rock-91.png" width="140" /></a></div>
In ROCK #91, you'll find my final article in my three-part training series entitled <b>The Seven Deadly Sins</b>. Why ROCK decided to label this article on the cover as "Just Climb It - Lee Cujes' seven awesome things" is anyone's guess.<br />
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<b><i>Sidenote:</i></b> With the news that Newsweek magazine will cease print at the end of the year and move to an online-only distribution, I had thoughts about the future of poor old ROCK magazine. As anyone who reads ROCK knows, it was the baby of prolific Australian climber Chris Baxter since he created the magazine in 1978. With Chris' ailing heath, the magazine was acquired by the Prime Creative Media stable in 2009. As well as producing a climbing magazine, this team also produces Global Coffee Review, Italianicious, Trailer Magazine, and many others. Initially, avid climber Ross Taylor was put in charge of producing ROCK, and he put in a valiant effort despite an obvious lack of resources. Eventually, Ross left ROCK and co-founded the excellent online publication <a href="http://www.verticallifemag.com.au/" target="_blank">Vertical Life</a>, and editorial duties of ROCK fell to Prime Creative staffer and non-climber Aaron Flanagan. Once again, I have no doubt that Aaron is doing the best he can with the resources he has available, but I can't help but thinking that with the above-mentioned progression we're seeing the lid of ROCKs coffin being slowly nailed up. Perhaps it's inevitable. As Newsweek's editor said, “It really has not been a question of if, it was a question of when.”<br />
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Without further ado, please enjoy my final training article for ROCK magazine. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Page 1. Click to open image in viewer, then right click on it and select 'View Image'<br />
to more easily read the full-size scanned pic.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Page 2. Click to open image in viewer, then right click on it and select 'View Image'<br />
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<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer"><br/><br/>Lee Cujes</div>Lee Cujeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-72643238313666446512012-11-02T19:30:00.001+11:002012-11-02T19:31:54.779+11:005 months between bourbonsYeah I know. It's been five months since I posted on my blog. I guess it might be how some agoraphobics got started. You're sick in bed for a week and suddenly, very quickly, the idea of going outside is just too scary to consider. So too with the blog posting. I'm not the only one either it seems. I think blogging is on the way out, personally. I posted about that <a href="http://www.upskillclimbing.com/2012/03/quality-is-dead-bloggings-dead-we.html">earlier</a>. Blogging was then, Facebook is now, and something else or a variant will be 'later'.<br />
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BITD, I never had to even try to <i><b>produce</b></i> when it came to climbing. My psyche was overflowing and all spare time -- <i>especially</i> at work ;) was devoted to writing, thinking, planning, discussing all things climbing. The qurank web forum, this Upskill blog, online guides, 8a.nu, theCrag.com, multiple Facebook pages. There was a lot to do! I never really questioned why I was doing all this. Why? Pfft! Why not? It was primarily about engaging with other climbers, and I loved it.<br />
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So what happened? Well, work happened. Proper work. After Sam and I got back from our year trip around the world, I had the opportunity to join a small but rapidly expanding company pretty much at the ground floor. Previous jobs I've had in big firms lauded the specialist. You know, the .NET coding expert. The Project Manager. I never really was a specialist, and so honestly never really believed I had much value in a work environment. Then this job came along with a small firm. And hell, specialisation was <u>not</u> needed - not in a small company. The company needed someone who could just jump in and do everything. And I did. Within a handful of months, I was managing the company.<br />
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Massive hours? Yep. Massive challenge? Heck yes. Massive feeling of accomplishment? Certainly. Why work so hard? Good question. Well, the way I see it, the harder you work, the more you should get paid. So working really hard is a means to an end and that end is increased freedom. The freedom to take long holidays and go climbing. The freedom to do what you want to do because you can afford to. But some things fall by the wayside. Suddenly, the time needed to recreate online completely evaporated. I stopped going to qurank. I disabled the Upskill Climbing Facebook page. Stopped blogging. The only non-work activities were training (just enough to maintain, not improve) and a bit of weekend climbing, and putting up new routes.<br />
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The six weeks I just spent in the Red River Gorge was the first actual holiday since taking on my mad new work role. It was pretty crazy going from 60-80 hour weeks to the backwoods of Kentucky. The weeks in the lead-up to the trip I did minimal training and figured I'd get fit over there. Well, it worked out pretty well. I ended up bagging five 13a/7c+/28s - two of these onsight and the others second go. In the heady world of Ondra's and Ashima's that's nothin'. But for me, that's really good. I've only ever done one 28 onsight previously.<br />
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I also did 17 7b/25s and 7b+/26s and 13 of those were onsights. All in all, 109 pitches of extremely enjoyable climbing - nearly all onsighting. I did almost no projecting. Got on some great harder routes like Kaleidoscope (13c/8a+/30) and Golden Boy (13b/8a/29) but only gave a few tries before moving on. That's always been the case for me in a new area. It's hard to limit yourself to one route when there are so many classics nearby begging to be climbed.<br />
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What's the point of this story? I like stories.<br />
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I guess the point of the story is to say sorry, yeah, haven't been blogging. But I'm still hammering away. I'm putting my collared shirt on and walking back into work, ready to kill it there, but also aiming high with my own climbing - nothing's changed there. It's a balancing act, and I'm still learning. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-1uyOtMKO4iFIpQvNNhqGqFMFmhMXv3U-rhecTL9oDGt05QjKduVAdWhStI3tVQ7o6xiS4dME4AxwoR23hOEc-S74dmhFwGiMXVoubYp_4cRs2m3xb0HSK7Wfoh5yaL9IFPrHg2qYvvWY/s1600/IMG_7912.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-1uyOtMKO4iFIpQvNNhqGqFMFmhMXv3U-rhecTL9oDGt05QjKduVAdWhStI3tVQ7o6xiS4dME4AxwoR23hOEc-S74dmhFwGiMXVoubYp_4cRs2m3xb0HSK7Wfoh5yaL9IFPrHg2qYvvWY/s640/IMG_7912.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the onsights that got away - Zen and the Art of Masturbation 5.12d/7c/27, The Gallery, Red River Gorge, KY, USA.</td></tr>
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<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer"><br/><br/>Lee Cujes</div>Lee Cujeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-24366383590331336212012-05-26T17:43:00.000+10:002012-05-26T17:48:27.032+10:00My interview in KORFES (Greek climbing mag)Thanks to Aris Theodoropolous who did an interview with me for KORFES magazine. Here it is. The translation follows...<br />
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<h3>
<b>How did you start climbing?</b></h3>
I started climbing in 1994. I was 17, went to a climbing gym a few times and was hooked, and immediately started venturing outdoors. This was before climbing info was available on the internet. We had to work out everything ourselves, which meant rope was purchased from the hardware store, the same 8mm nylon rope you use on your trailer. We made harnesses out of the same rope using a soldering iron. The exceedingly painful G-string configuration we came up with led to some seriously bruised kidneys. We used D-shackles to belay. It's amazing none of us got badly injured.<br />
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<h3>
Which climbers have made a lasting impression on you and why?</h3>
The people who have made the biggest impression on me are the local climbing warriors who took me under their wing and acted as mentors, pushing me to improve. I'm indebted to Duncan Steel in particular who recently climbed his first 8c at the age of 50. Inspirational.<br />
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<h3>
The best thing about your climbing life?</h3>
Adventure and travel. Exploring cliffs I haven't been to before, establishing new routes, training and helping other climbers.<br />
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<h3>
A memorable story from your climbing life?</h3>
It was New Year’s Eve 2005 and we were chilling out at the Freedom Bar on Tonsai with a very extended dinner. I managed to talk my girlfriend Sam into doing the multipitch classic Humanality with me first thing in the morning. The alarm went off before 6am and I dragged Sam and the gear down to the beach. The party was still going at the Freedom Bar, with music blaring and people dancing around in various stages of drug-addled intoxication. We were the first ones on the route (the first party of 2006), and climbed as quick as we could to put some distance between us and the German party who’d just arrived behind us. The third pitch is amazing, stemming out from a smooth wall to a huge stalactite behind you. As Sam met me at the final semi-hanging belay she was absolutely spent, which of course was part of my plan, and I asked her to marry me. She was obviously too tired to think clearly and said yes. <br />
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<h3>
Other interests (besides climbing)?</h3>
Traveling, fishing.<br />
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<h3>
What’s next – short and long term?</h3>
More of the same. Life is good.<br />
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<h3>
When did you first visit Kalymnos?</h3>
2007 during our honeymoon.<br />
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<h3>
What did you think during that first visit? </h3>
We loved it. We were there in November and it was quite cold and many places were shut, but it still left a lasting impression.<br />
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<h3>
How many times have you visited Kalymnos since?</h3>
Three more times. Nearly six months of time spent on the island so far.<br />
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<h3>
What –if anything—differentiates Kalymnos from other climbing destinations?</h3>
The sheer quantity of routes within easy walking distance, and the quality of the guidebook. <br />
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<h3>
As a climbing destination, where does Kalymnos get it right? </h3>
The support of climbing from locals, and from local businesses is great to see. The fact that the bolting of routes follows a set of guidelines to ensure consistency and quality is a smart move for a 'holiday cliff'.<br />
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<h3>
And where does it go wrong? Any suggestions for improvement? </h3>
I feel more support (and money) needs to be thrown behind people doing rebolting and maintenance, and the scale of this program expanded. When routes are rebolted, they should be equipped with glue-in bolts rather than expansion bolts. This will increase the lifespan of the fixtures, and eliminate problems of nuts loosening and hangers falling off.<br />
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<h3>
Most recently you stayed in Kalymnos for almost two months. What were the highlights of that trip?</h3>
The highlights were getting to introduce the island to another group of friends who hadn't experienced Kalymnos before. From a climbing viewpoint, I really enjoyed doing Sardonique at Odyssey and Punto Caramelo in the Grande Grotta, as well as discovering the delights of the Secret Garden.<br />
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<h3>
Tell us about your climbing camps on Kalymnos. What made you choose it as the venue?</h3>
Climbing, food, accommodation, seaside setting, easy access -- it's the whole package that sets it apart. There are areas in the world which perhaps have higher quality easy and mid-grade routes, but nowhere else can tick all the boxes like Kalymnos.<br />
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<h3>
As a coach, how do you help students become better climbers over the course of a climbing camp?</h3>
<a href="http://climbkalymnos.com/wp-content/uploads/Lee_KingCobra1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="257" src="http://climbkalymnos.com/wp-content/uploads/Lee_KingCobra1.jpg" width="320" /></a>We do pre-work with our students to determine where their weaknesses lie before the camp, and help them with their goal-setting. Each day during the camp we all participate in a discussion module covering one key aspect of climbing performance, which helps provide a focus to the day's climbing. We constantly shoot video and conduct a video analysis session with each climber to help identify weak areas and analyse ways to improve. But mostly, it is the positive and supportive vibe of the team which sees each climber try a little harder and achieve more than they thought possible. <br />
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<h3>
Most memorable routes you have climbed on Kalymnos (regardless of grade)?</h3>
• Axium 6c+, Ghost Kitchen<br />
• Biloute 7a, Olympic Wall<br />
• Aegialis 7c, Grande Grotta<br />
• Zawi Nul Syndicate 7c/+, Grande Grotta<br />
• Fun De Chichunne 8a, Grande Grotta<br />
• Lucifer's Hammer 6c, Spartan Wall<br />
• Phineas 5c, Symplegades<br />
• Chameleon 8a, Spartacus<br />
• And now for something completely different 5c, Arginonda<br />
• Kerveros 7a, Spartacus<br />
<br />
<h3>
Some climbers may be worried about visiting Kalymnos due to the ongoing economic crisis in Greece. How did you experience Kalymnos this year? Was your stay in any way affected by the crisis compared to previous visits? What would you advise a first-time visitor to Kalymnos?</h3>
We weren't affected at all. There was some strike action during our stay but we luckily avoided it. A first time visitor should take a 70m rope and more quickdraws than they think they will need. Try every restaurant, and drink lots of frappes!<br />
<br />
<h3>
When will we see you in Kalymnos again? </h3>
We never know for sure if we'll go again. And yet we always seem to find ourselves back in Masouri. It's beginning to feel like a second home. Who wants to help me get a Greek working visa? :)<br />
<br />
Aris also has the <a href="http://climbkalymnos.com/?p=5980" target="_blank">interview online on his excellent ClimbKalymnos site</a>.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><br/><br/>Lee Cujes</div>Lee Cujeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-75920477157210840152012-05-08T22:46:00.000+10:002012-05-08T22:46:36.299+10:00Interview in Vertical Life<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmueaygyECIgL88exK67rjJAuAwObEIdJ7xjIGaMbYUzBnGi5KyjoIXI78PRwNcgvuEzVVjNQaESU73AcwaU50ITsZGlrQBrz_kcWhXG4Gt5jpiGGXmHfau6xcCNIL-7E5N3EGsuaTBrw-/s1600/vl1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmueaygyECIgL88exK67rjJAuAwObEIdJ7xjIGaMbYUzBnGi5KyjoIXI78PRwNcgvuEzVVjNQaESU73AcwaU50ITsZGlrQBrz_kcWhXG4Gt5jpiGGXmHfau6xcCNIL-7E5N3EGsuaTBrw-/s200/vl1.jpg" width="168" /></a></div>
<br />
New online climbing mag <a href="http://www.verticallifemag.com.au/" target="_blank">Vertical Life</a> has done <a href="http://www.verticallifemag.com.au/an-interview-with-lee-cujes/" target="_blank">an interview with me</a>, basically checking in on my ascents of <b>The Don</b> 33 and <b>Vicious Wishes </b>32.<br />
<br />
The <a href="http://www.verticallifemag.com.au/an-interview-with-lee-cujes/" target="_blank">interview</a> is up on their site, and you can download issue #1 for free there also.<br />
<br />
Big ups to Simon Madden and Ross Taylor for forging ahead, sticking their necks out and essentially (virtually) self publishing something that is artistic and meaningful. It's completely congruent with the tagline of this website (look up top - my own personal mission).<br />
<br />
I look forward to issue #2.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><br/><br/>Lee Cujes</div>Lee Cujeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-74764569305450825092012-05-08T11:43:00.000+10:002012-11-02T19:31:30.608+11:00FA - SemtexSo I had wedding duties this weekend. New shoes, pimped up suit, the whole bit. But I did manage to sneak away for a few hours. There was a project I equipped earlier in the year at Ninderry but struggled with it due to some slick holds on the crux which summer did not agree with. I was hoping cooler conditions might be the trick.<br />
<br />
Unfortunately when we arrived it was a waterfall up top and the final six metres was soaked. We didn't have a backup plan, so forged on regardless, and with the assistance of lots of chalk and rags, we got it dry enough to climb. Most of the crux holds were dry, but the easier top section remained very wet. Spicy!<br />
<br />
Luckily as the day ticked away the route got slightly more dry, and eventually a breeze kicked in and we got a tiny window of perfect conditions. I pounced and managed to get it done. Psyched! Another one in the bag.<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<b>Semtex 15m 29</b><br />
Really cool low dyno (unless you're Long-arms Schimke), then a baffling upper crux which I solved with some knee-trickery. Hard to grade as the sequence is short, but hard/bizarre.</blockquote>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRzX2LlasEETw1f69juPAkP-_LGj9kzcu48HHNw83SJ04xv1TMhnT9yDbksV34jNp8thbz4dguoIXBec_N_Dk5Fjer6_pUWBaHY1K5oL6Gzc4gxYxthHvkVGZNaoc5ZBiJeZCiSOszw3bW/s1600/IMG_6671.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRzX2LlasEETw1f69juPAkP-_LGj9kzcu48HHNw83SJ04xv1TMhnT9yDbksV34jNp8thbz4dguoIXBec_N_Dk5Fjer6_pUWBaHY1K5oL6Gzc4gxYxthHvkVGZNaoc5ZBiJeZCiSOszw3bW/s640/IMG_6671.jpg" width="427" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Slipping off the still-spoogy crux hold.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx4RWOJGDXb7C2_vM9ZB77XDKlsAcIqVAiIahIMrSKIHW-af0JJwt4XH-5sPiErUqTO_PcKlPi6Au3DqfM0uf5PRj9fiDz0i6BXILP2K242fZBYuoDXjsqJEf6HvHwmKTVtw2W_irAQJLk/s1600/IMG_6677.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx4RWOJGDXb7C2_vM9ZB77XDKlsAcIqVAiIahIMrSKIHW-af0JJwt4XH-5sPiErUqTO_PcKlPi6Au3DqfM0uf5PRj9fiDz0i6BXILP2K242fZBYuoDXjsqJEf6HvHwmKTVtw2W_irAQJLk/s640/IMG_6677.jpg" width="427" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I actually did hold it this time. Between the knee and a slight pinch, it's just enough to stay on.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNTK8dTPfUCBuvf3nOfne3lkxvfp9EFs_q-I5kO-THFIyq0oDxaQ6y9jnfv_NnJu7vgSbcknillCYoIM_8ynR3fhvGLxCoMcBU76YZV9-GAl1qFGjQx9ySYXMFPiZVM2IRg8T43BFKehRi/s1600/IMG_6656.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNTK8dTPfUCBuvf3nOfne3lkxvfp9EFs_q-I5kO-THFIyq0oDxaQ6y9jnfv_NnJu7vgSbcknillCYoIM_8ynR3fhvGLxCoMcBU76YZV9-GAl1qFGjQx9ySYXMFPiZVM2IRg8T43BFKehRi/s400/IMG_6656.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">When you do it well it looks like this.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZtGKnjhaLBeSQpFs_4Zmx4ThmeNVTLp0m6EFmXPqmsOOV5L7HhSzutPeWfD8iOK4xx1nip59coLWH5mHb3elNQ7IiuUh247folGVinlPfVunFp2MCEX8JfzBAWPoUFWZny7oFtuDzuz-E/s1600/IMG_6667.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZtGKnjhaLBeSQpFs_4Zmx4ThmeNVTLp0m6EFmXPqmsOOV5L7HhSzutPeWfD8iOK4xx1nip59coLWH5mHb3elNQ7IiuUh247folGVinlPfVunFp2MCEX8JfzBAWPoUFWZny7oFtuDzuz-E/s400/IMG_6667.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The top section. Hopefully a formality from here, but maybe not if it's dripping with water.</td></tr>
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<div class="blogger-post-footer"><br/><br/>Lee Cujes</div>Lee Cujeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-38285885845965589462012-04-16T17:59:00.000+10:002012-04-16T18:01:02.249+10:00Ask The Coach #7: Training Series 2/3: Training finger strength<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn6moktAD2uOPuKlmsIkjTIWt2a8ydhCP4ol_-0MHCgtIgo1izQE6oAgNG-wOiBuhyphenhyphenAnO6NauMr77D8ErrOI82lUlskt3z293G6yHJ9ee1oRhm_3B-lhBAwEi34Rzmp6WlRN_g7BEK66NC/s1600/rock-90-cover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn6moktAD2uOPuKlmsIkjTIWt2a8ydhCP4ol_-0MHCgtIgo1izQE6oAgNG-wOiBuhyphenhyphenAnO6NauMr77D8ErrOI82lUlskt3z293G6yHJ9ee1oRhm_3B-lhBAwEi34Rzmp6WlRN_g7BEK66NC/s200/rock-90-cover.jpg" width="141" /></a></div>Autumn's issue of ROCK magazine is out and in it I get stuck into telling you how to go about training finger strength. Ideally suited to those who have perhaps tried before and given it up.<br />
<br />
This is the second of a three-part training series and the content is something I'm proud of considering it's an area I have struggled with, and then really put in a singleminded, determined push to develop for the past six months. And it <a href="http://www.upskillclimbing.com/2012/04/is-don-is-good.html" target="_blank">paid off</a>. I've got miles to go, too.<br />
<br />
So. Stronger fingers. Here's how.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjdnzmGNSYrUkhwYkhf3YBWjirM3HauABen9u5VDKWuHJTZOVNkWx2jNLqAruzZbMfmdtkhapy5SYDva3mYT8QLbR986rbh_CqfPuRNDLWgqBAKO2DIkGnTK4xTZlNmWJpjHP-vt5lZf1V/s1600/rock-90a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjdnzmGNSYrUkhwYkhf3YBWjirM3HauABen9u5VDKWuHJTZOVNkWx2jNLqAruzZbMfmdtkhapy5SYDva3mYT8QLbR986rbh_CqfPuRNDLWgqBAKO2DIkGnTK4xTZlNmWJpjHP-vt5lZf1V/s640/rock-90a.jpg" width="464" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Page 1. Click to open image in viewer, then right click on it and select 'View Image'<br />
to more easily read the full-size scanned pic.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd-mO4BvigDJZooqPJNq-lIixj5KcMs6i8DNzyf92h5AvIPOi09zfltY-cMCcFtiv6Laqckpmypx_eKj38FV7GuI51UofeUC0MdQaCXBMG2BFTInKFksSsYFbagQYmCdk72srC5uB0X9N3/s1600/rock-90b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd-mO4BvigDJZooqPJNq-lIixj5KcMs6i8DNzyf92h5AvIPOi09zfltY-cMCcFtiv6Laqckpmypx_eKj38FV7GuI51UofeUC0MdQaCXBMG2BFTInKFksSsYFbagQYmCdk72srC5uB0X9N3/s640/rock-90b.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Page 2. Click to open image in viewer, then right click on it and select 'View Image'<br />
to more easily read the full-size scanned pic.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The third and final installment of this training series will be coming up in July.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><br/><br/>Lee Cujes</div>Lee Cujeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-20088107294921414062012-04-13T16:28:00.000+10:002012-04-24T11:01:43.707+10:00Is Don. Is Good.<div class="MsoNormal">10 months ago on the 9<sup>th</sup> of June 2011 my friend Duncan Steel did the first ascent of a route called <b>The Don</b>. It is a route first bolted by Australian climbing legend Kim Carrigan, but it remained untried for several years until Duncan took it on. In 2005 I had a quick play on the route and couldn’t even hang the holds. Six years later I hung on a rope and filmed the first ascent, and it was the culmination of five years of seasonal effort, and hundreds of attempts over that time. I was holding the rope and yelling encouragement for the majority of those attempts. Bearing witness to someone achieving a goal they have worked so hard towards is something I will never forget, and my happiness was off the charts that day. It was not even a question as to whether I would also try to do the route, it was just a question of when.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">In the years while Duncan was focussed on <b>The Don</b>, I spent my time climbing all the existing, established hard routes at the cliff (27s to 30s) and then going on to put up my own. Routes like <b>Ahead Of The Curve</b> 28, <b>Gay Pride</b> 29, <b>Angry Dragon</b> 29, <b>Below The Belt</b> 31, <b>Schadenfreude</b> 31 and <b>The Singularity</b> 32 all took time and energy. Some a few weekends, some months upon months: true siege tactics. All of these routes have now seen repeats from the likes of Duncan, Adam Palmer, Matt Clifford and Tom O’Halloran, and I get a definite thrill seeing others repeat my routes.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibvbQgopMsKP9KpdlU9VEBHFIYjBCzSj2xXx1mku6BEbg2npje2drUx4XSjdZScTdDvF5YFFP-3sNtkbrN4cChuZ89BPXe7eYFWAZZgiT9CQ5fHyoK9VKXtJB99XSwWjCTObCnN9kw/s1600/shaden.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibvbQgopMsKP9KpdlU9VEBHFIYjBCzSj2xXx1mku6BEbg2npje2drUx4XSjdZScTdDvF5YFFP-3sNtkbrN4cChuZ89BPXe7eYFWAZZgiT9CQ5fHyoK9VKXtJB99XSwWjCTObCnN9kw/s400/shaden.jpg" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me trying what would become Schadenfreude, circa 2007</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal">I had spent the majority of the 2011 season working on a link-up project of mine called <b>Vicious Wishes</b>. The weekend before Duncan sent <b>The Don</b>, I reached a highpoint on my project. Feeling the best I ever have, I was setting up for the final move when a loop of rope leading to the belayer got tangled around a tree root on the ground. I fell. Waking up the next day I found I could not bend my pinky finger. Capsulitis was diagnosed. This led to a few weeks off, then two months of not being able to crimp. The project was out of the question. After over 70 attempts invested, I was gutted. I couldn’t really train, and to keep my sanity I climbed only at crags like Coolum where 99% of the holds are open grips.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">It wasn’t all doom and gloom though. From September to November, we were in Kalymnos where along with running two <a href="http://www.upskillclimbing.com/p/upskill-climbing-camps.html" target="_blank">Upskill Climbing camps</a>, I did a whole stack of climbing including doing the mighty <b>Punto Caramelo</b> 8a+/30 second shot. Climbing on <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">mostly</i> big and open-grip holds, my finger gradually improved and by the time I returned home, I found I could train on my wall again. Happy days.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I climbed with some great climbers in Kalymnos; guys who were really crushing on 8b+/32s and 8c/33s. Watching them and chatting about their training, I’d come to the realisation in Kalymnos that finger strength was a key weakness that I had never specifically addressed. I’d always managed to siege my way up things by getting more route-fit, and getting more efficient. <b>Vicious Wishes</b> showed the flaw in my design. You can do everything right but if you can’t dominate small holds, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">sometimes,</i> you just won’t do the route (before it injures you).<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I knew <b>The Don</b> was on the cards for 2012, and I knew every nuance of the route and what it would demand. So as soon as I returned home in November I began to focus completely on fingers to the exclusion of all else. My fitness dwindled away, while my fingers got stronger and stronger. I would go out and climb routes and find I would climb through cruxes on onsights, missing vital holds and still managing to hold on to micro-holds and make it through, often to then get ballistically pumped on easier ground. The training was really changing me. After six weeks of this training I went on a one-week trip to the Blue Mountains where I climbed lots, onsighted up to 27 and did <b>Fresh Goats Milk</b> 28 and <b>Mr Magoo</b> 27 second shot, on my last day, exhausted.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I did three more weeks of finger strength before switching to recruitment training where I achieved my <a href="http://www.upskillclimbing.com/2012/01/mere-mortals-guide-to-beasting.html" target="_blank">first clean chin-ups on the Beastmaker 45° slopers</a>, ticked off all my hardest boulder problems on my wall, and then started setting increasingly absurdly difficult problems which I projected and eventually climbed. I was, by far, climbing the strongest I ever have.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">These months of preparation brought me to the end of February, and my first day back at the cliff for 2012 with Duncan. When he asked me what I wanted to get on that day and I said “The Don!” without any hesitation, I think he was quietly pleased.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiohWU2fjUKmaBIaO5UjIdmS8G7GZ0nlyok49U6idDQI1-f1YD3JbCpu-_KLYswtQ5Fxojn0kaLeAT_KYMZJJHTmeb52wULIwOfo8YpSuR4cm3_EBu64lOwe9cwWvY7ME_WcGD5b8wEBpZd/s1600/walk-in.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiohWU2fjUKmaBIaO5UjIdmS8G7GZ0nlyok49U6idDQI1-f1YD3JbCpu-_KLYswtQ5Fxojn0kaLeAT_KYMZJJHTmeb52wULIwOfo8YpSuR4cm3_EBu64lOwe9cwWvY7ME_WcGD5b8wEBpZd/s400/walk-in.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cowboy country.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal">The meat of the route is a constant 30° overhang which requires an unusual slow-burning, precise power. You can’t thrash. Everything must be perfect. The holds are small - sometimes extremely small - and often at maximum extension, which means body tension is critical. Duncan and I are the same height and have the same reach so we could share beta. There were only two moves I figured out which were different, and made the route more solid – for me.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">On the first day, I had done all the moves. I went home and built a simulator of the route and trained on it as much as I dared. On the third day, I climbed it in overlapping halves. On the fifth and sixth days, I fell on the deadpoint to the hold that marks the end of the ‘meat’. Yesterday, April 12 2012 was a Thursday, but the forecast was for unusually cold, dry and windy conditions. An excuse for a day off work if I’ve ever heard one. I climbed a couple of warm-ups, then did a session on my DIY hangboard before donning my down jacket for the first time of the year. Before I started to cool down too much, I decided to have my first burn on the route. As it was the first burn, there was no pressure. I chalked up, and pulled on to the wall for the 18<sup>th</sup> time. As I climbed the opening moves, everything felt right. I continued to execute every move without error and I found myself sticking the final deadpoint. It felt very much like a dream, and not at all like the send. With numb fingers, I carefully climbed the easy but long runout to the anchors. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgixQ02aM4TD2ITI-aN60Icb0hm75iJJ12dtvwuLq-mTj9unF6gwEsBbD_h-x2GS5yUDLW54nlquXJanE7zLsB-xTrGt5SSJq-qd5jsgVODjChyphenhyphenaRIO6F-2Vav1L7RAp0IF6G3CZms76o2o/s1600/instagram.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgixQ02aM4TD2ITI-aN60Icb0hm75iJJ12dtvwuLq-mTj9unF6gwEsBbD_h-x2GS5yUDLW54nlquXJanE7zLsB-xTrGt5SSJq-qd5jsgVODjChyphenhyphenaRIO6F-2Vav1L7RAp0IF6G3CZms76o2o/s400/instagram.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cool positions on The Don.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal">People get caught up with the grade of routes. I have a love/hate relationship with grades. That said, I am finding myself less and less concerned as time goes by. I’m much more interested in quality of the route, and the effort that goes into it. I truly do believe that the only person qualified to give an opinion of a route’s grade is someone who a) has climbed the route and b) has climbed several benchmark routes in the grades above and below. And even then it’s really only a suggestion as we all have very different body types.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">So <b>there’s no way I am qualified to comment on the grade of this route</b>. I’ve never climbed a 33 before, and I’ve only ever done one confirmed 32. There are other guys and girls with the resume required to make an informed suggestion. We have climbers who have climbed 33 in just a few shots, and on the world scene, grade 34 is being onsighted with increasing regularity. What I <u>can</u> say is that <b>The Don</b> is by far the hardest route I have climbed which wasn’t a first ascent. It’s something I’ve been wanting to climb for years, and the actual movement and style of climbing on the route did not disappoint. It’s a true classic. I would put money on the fact it’ll see its third ascent before this season is out.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_v1WVhOFmjVA6NmHyE76LDUgyf8TjuSyI_QdUyTtKK-FBC2d6CnZP6dBxmMia3Xj-l6nN1uKYs1ggltd5-6EUtiNRUifkJ1T6UcsN4_10sN2qpJuv4CBA0kvgLcC_lZ11xUApYOOKEqg_/s1600/the-don-post-send.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_v1WVhOFmjVA6NmHyE76LDUgyf8TjuSyI_QdUyTtKK-FBC2d6CnZP6dBxmMia3Xj-l6nN1uKYs1ggltd5-6EUtiNRUifkJ1T6UcsN4_10sN2qpJuv4CBA0kvgLcC_lZ11xUApYOOKEqg_/s400/the-don-post-send.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Touchdown immediately after the send. Duncan (L) and me.</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><br/><br/>Lee Cujes</div>Lee Cujeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-3761137296887025912012-03-13T22:07:00.000+11:002012-03-13T22:07:31.505+11:00Quality is dead. Blogging's dead. We demand instant gratification.It's 999km from my house in Queensland to Blackheath in the Blue Mountains and the sport climbing epicentre of Australia. But sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. And we needed a fix. By we, I mean <a href="http://jjobrienclimbing.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">JJ O'Brien</a> and I. So there we were, Friday night flight, hire car, drive up into the mist and an early morning coffee and rendezvous in the Sublime Point carpark. Blue sky. A good start.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipo5P3F_uBLg08vFPa7roOEIU63Amu1aZYFCZAARSf555dBQrSI00alE1sagdH60g9OAuLVhFNP0hGQ-goAv_Ma9YAsx1MSLaIj2890l4wdB89lNqTDUYSV7Sf_IIDv7moODn-0b8Q/s1600/day1-71.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipo5P3F_uBLg08vFPa7roOEIU63Amu1aZYFCZAARSf555dBQrSI00alE1sagdH60g9OAuLVhFNP0hGQ-goAv_Ma9YAsx1MSLaIj2890l4wdB89lNqTDUYSV7Sf_IIDv7moODn-0b8Q/s400/day1-71.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.upskillclimbinggear.com/categories/Clothing/" target="_blank">b+n</a> hoody</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>INSTANT GRATIFICATION</b></span><br />
<br /><rant><br />
<br />Trip reports are so 2004. And even good photography. Good photography is like, 2009 or something. Now it's all about Twitter and Instagram. Quality has been replaced by '<b style="color: red;">timeliness</b>' as the number one consideration. Grainy, grungy photos taken on iPhones are now what it's all about because they're uploaded as the action happens. Of course you can see where this is going: digital SLRs with 3G capability to enable instant uploads of high quality pics and video. We've already got live feeds of comps. Extend this idea further and you arrive at a Truman Show-esque reality of real time cameras strapped to our favourite climbing stars 24-7. Farfetched? I reckon we'll have it sooner than you think.<br />
<br />
<i>"Dude, did you see Sharma mow the lawn today? Fully sick brah!"</i><br />
<br />
It's with this in mind that I neglect to put down much in the way of words and instead share some images from our wild, windy weekend. It's unlikely anyone really reads blogs anymore anyway. Facebook is killing the idea of the blog, and why? <b style="color: red;">Timeliness</b>, once again. Facebook is to blogs what Instagram is to quality photography. Instant gratification.<br />
<br />
The demand for quality will return. But the demand for timeliness will remain. HD, real-time streaming of Chris Sharma's backyard gardening and mowing exploits. This, I tell you, is the future.<br />
<br />
</rant><br /><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">GIMME THOSE PICS YOU F@#KER!</span></b><br />
<br />
<b>SATURDAY</b><br />
<br />
We rounded the corner of Sublime Point and were greeted with a wall that dead-set gave me flashbacks to Windjammer Wall at Point Perpendicular. Bentravarto Wall. Super place to start.<br /><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj84P80Wha_aXaWB94zCBe_7TVbbM4CMiC4ZUsHsSDc0tKXOYJOxn-ynWFmo5-CCRUhHvdDKmWxYsLWYEEBT1hv2b9zYxbudjkOaPe3B2pSY-vOdPDUWj_-49v35D54gqVauj2vZJnX/s1600/day1-9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj84P80Wha_aXaWB94zCBe_7TVbbM4CMiC4ZUsHsSDc0tKXOYJOxn-ynWFmo5-CCRUhHvdDKmWxYsLWYEEBT1hv2b9zYxbudjkOaPe3B2pSY-vOdPDUWj_-49v35D54gqVauj2vZJnX/s320/day1-9.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="hasCaption">First route of the day. Getting stuck in on the amazing Bentravarto Wall at Sublime Point. <br />This was the first pitch of Marxism 23/7a.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzWbeX016TL68ayiG6XFVPmRNoeFNUDoMxMI3Dv2mh2fmMqscRirwsvMlKf1DSd502tzKC2O1Hw-C2mtPcHygrnDcRtYyMlSe7Z9cj8swyRWgEVLkxFC5o4_HFHcULmvL8JPEpXk1B/s1600/day1-10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzWbeX016TL68ayiG6XFVPmRNoeFNUDoMxMI3Dv2mh2fmMqscRirwsvMlKf1DSd502tzKC2O1Hw-C2mtPcHygrnDcRtYyMlSe7Z9cj8swyRWgEVLkxFC5o4_HFHcULmvL8JPEpXk1B/s640/day1-10.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marxism 23, Bentravarto Wall, Sublime Point.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3_-WEYyuFpHIZ1t8Ias-8wy4wZd2u-UCJgC8IIT7I0g3eRVcSrRpqHqHJgJY7ciihxtVEDSbaeouCZVy0cGM9BdjT1XgchufZT7hf0Lp4IHDuccIxor3Fxc88YFxqUw9UUerJTBru/s1600/day1-60.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3_-WEYyuFpHIZ1t8Ias-8wy4wZd2u-UCJgC8IIT7I0g3eRVcSrRpqHqHJgJY7ciihxtVEDSbaeouCZVy0cGM9BdjT1XgchufZT7hf0Lp4IHDuccIxor3Fxc88YFxqUw9UUerJTBru/s400/day1-60.jpg" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="hasCaption">Neil Monteith on one of the routes in the
Binary Cave, an area he's been instrumental in developing over the rainy
summer months.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEqryjsGZyupJjzdHZssQjLWo4AHSra_0dSpjGd_eonaqzb15j7RAwgy4M-2ryNflC8QUhiKJGbDPZe25N6j7t9Ajg0-NTy_hMse7HDLpNAocEoHbtlIU_kPGOEiDEp2X59WT-B3Ph/s1600/day1-80.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEqryjsGZyupJjzdHZssQjLWo4AHSra_0dSpjGd_eonaqzb15j7RAwgy4M-2ryNflC8QUhiKJGbDPZe25N6j7t9Ajg0-NTy_hMse7HDLpNAocEoHbtlIU_kPGOEiDEp2X59WT-B3Ph/s320/day1-80.jpg" width="212" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZn7ecD5i-i9tDvAHOSOMRAmAqt9z2pwZmoZxBssFe10XQIkwwWyLUuYA_07eanQbFHHow6EsiogXA8QQNtEynvoe5ogyU8KMRk9G_q53oRIaAK7Y68p8dzXUckFkkO6K1uXQ-dmBH/s1600/day1-97.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZn7ecD5i-i9tDvAHOSOMRAmAqt9z2pwZmoZxBssFe10XQIkwwWyLUuYA_07eanQbFHHow6EsiogXA8QQNtEynvoe5ogyU8KMRk9G_q53oRIaAK7Y68p8dzXUckFkkO6K1uXQ-dmBH/s400/day1-97.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="hasCaption">To access Subliminal and its 65m crux
pitch, you do a free-hanging 70m abseil to the lip of a giant roof,
which is still situated 150m off the deck. You then attempt to not crap
yourself.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrcLMO7OZPYm5xNuJIE1NuLuj1dYmLJxSoXW33Ejg6ijqs2pHa-CI39sjDU7C_PPpc56Csrxl3HjKofB5_fVaUeqBAQjowJX1RdTLpYmbEf-f52qOSobHAeW_zOCJsMP_9heKynS8r/s1600/day1-98.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrcLMO7OZPYm5xNuJIE1NuLuj1dYmLJxSoXW33Ejg6ijqs2pHa-CI39sjDU7C_PPpc56Csrxl3HjKofB5_fVaUeqBAQjowJX1RdTLpYmbEf-f52qOSobHAeW_zOCJsMP_9heKynS8r/s400/day1-98.jpg" width="297" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="hasCaption">Extreme bushwalking? <br />This is the rather out
there traverse pitch (20) to get you to the base of the GIANT grade 22
arete (more like 23 or 24) which is 65m tall and requires 25 quickdraws.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
At the conclusion of Saturday, we'd amassed quite the collection of ticks (the good kind) including pitches of 20, 22, 23, 25, 22, 24, 25, 25, 20 and the epic 22(3?4?). Arms sore.<br />
<br />
We'd also filled out our bingo cards with sightings of a veritable who's who of Australian climbers including Mark Baker (in the Bakery to boot!), Neil Monteith, Mikl Law, John Smoothy, Giles Bradbury, Macca Macpherson and Zac Vertrees. I guess it's understandable given the Bluies is a rather small area with not many crags (-- ?!).<br />
<br />
<b>SUNDAY</b><br /><br />We had designs of Pierces Pass multipitching but after getting cold and topping out Subliminal in the dark, we opted for single pitching instead. Australia's first son of kneebar, Jase Piper and the Blue Mountains quiet achiever Nige Campbell would be at Bell Supercrag. Keen for a clean sweep of climbing celeb bingo, we headed out.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilXiZXyqftYwh-nFPRuj50s4SCUe7n6_qAapzZ3ysuMDW5C7gaBInC13WFm4YBvKGW5N7N3XzbHLjSBD5DqkFg29vI_B8HnLJgvHfowWQ_GMz4E026Ne8AjVdgMOWcLrMMZpQjWNZj/s1600/day2-40.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilXiZXyqftYwh-nFPRuj50s4SCUe7n6_qAapzZ3ysuMDW5C7gaBInC13WFm4YBvKGW5N7N3XzbHLjSBD5DqkFg29vI_B8HnLJgvHfowWQ_GMz4E026Ne8AjVdgMOWcLrMMZpQjWNZj/s640/day2-40.jpg" width="457" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="hasCaption">Day 2 dawns at Bell Supercrag. <br />A classic of the cliff, this magnificent 25/7b. We don't know the name, but it's shit hot.<br />You know if JJ can get a knee in he's going to be smiling.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi46GjU1gZFVkS7VcjjUNNMR8Ok6cdgjEGYLXHb-8CaVXbSy_Vhu196jSe5yiB0zdI87erXWuvV7eIlywnkM4hu-tMuzPk3SZRFExGa4PKC5LgE_mk_mFIrnc9THSSKHwRHGMHQDvL2/s1600/day2-98a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi46GjU1gZFVkS7VcjjUNNMR8Ok6cdgjEGYLXHb-8CaVXbSy_Vhu196jSe5yiB0zdI87erXWuvV7eIlywnkM4hu-tMuzPk3SZRFExGa4PKC5LgE_mk_mFIrnc9THSSKHwRHGMHQDvL2/s400/day2-98a.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No, it's not Fabio. It's machine Jase Piper breaking in his <a href="http://www.upskillclimbinggear.com/categories/Kneebar-Pads/" target="_blank">Upskill kneebar pads</a> on Reality Dysfunction 27/7c.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbG9CPt93zzzKD4v6eiYsn5xqrX_QuY8P7rZcTxHMzwawH7ymdwNxZI2gXCAzBDfA02oDs4xKjV7-agVbQHyE1LGZcPCFJSrA2TMH8eey5JzCMk_By-yh2IMTeWW1yeBXwaIEQeioa/s1600/day2-98b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbG9CPt93zzzKD4v6eiYsn5xqrX_QuY8P7rZcTxHMzwawH7ymdwNxZI2gXCAzBDfA02oDs4xKjV7-agVbQHyE1LGZcPCFJSrA2TMH8eey5JzCMk_By-yh2IMTeWW1yeBXwaIEQeioa/s400/day2-98b.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Go Jase, go! <br />What scenery!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYyzFRdiWi2lBOOUaf-s_D8-TRh0dgkFlfsa81bQyC1Af9-I8u9H5gvhSgRxS2-O7D9GoESLPmEFAOvnzuYrwXby6S-4QhEFLcyOiUVCMqugJQgwfBGj_zi8_yiabwZ5IUbYl6zJdA/s1600/day2-49.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYyzFRdiWi2lBOOUaf-s_D8-TRh0dgkFlfsa81bQyC1Af9-I8u9H5gvhSgRxS2-O7D9GoESLPmEFAOvnzuYrwXby6S-4QhEFLcyOiUVCMqugJQgwfBGj_zi8_yiabwZ5IUbYl6zJdA/s640/day2-49.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My desired pitch for the day was this 29/8a. I dislike referring to routes by their grades but<br />in this case we still don't know what it's called. Managed to claw up it second shot which was a surprise. This was the actual send.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSXLCko6vykOIaAsEeffRm14WXISnMJg1Sn6F6y1ryCixhfNoz57-T5XAdN1mH0qiLdGoBCBc7TckPKI1D0kpk2BBJCoT6i1zxesOeZsbRgI2vnE8lbT7LUyn185pKBHkIkY57Tzw-/s1600/day2-50.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSXLCko6vykOIaAsEeffRm14WXISnMJg1Sn6F6y1ryCixhfNoz57-T5XAdN1mH0qiLdGoBCBc7TckPKI1D0kpk2BBJCoT6i1zxesOeZsbRgI2vnE8lbT7LUyn185pKBHkIkY57Tzw-/s640/day2-50.jpg" width="478" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me contributing to the clouds on the 29.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We managed a few easier routes in the remainder of the afternoon but by this stage my entire body was in a weird state of collapse. We walked out, had a Thai dinner, and got on a plane.<br />
<br />
That's it. Instant gratification.<br />
<br />
Go on, back to Facebook. These photos are <a href="http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150582557817484.375738.120884622483&type=1" target="_blank">already there</a>.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><br/><br/>Lee Cujes</div>Lee Cujeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-52323531146589108262012-03-01T22:12:00.001+11:002013-11-22T21:13:25.939+11:00Thailand Thaitanium Project - 2012 Rebolting Report by Josh LyonsThis article is a follow-up report to the big and popular article from March 2011 called <a href="http://www.upskillclimbing.com/2011/03/titanium-bolts-answer-for-thailand.html">Titanium bolts: The answer for Thailand climbing?</a> That article described the actions of the Thaitanium Project, a small crew of volunteers who are working their arses off rebolting the cliffs of Railay/Tonsai with titanium bolts, because this is one of the rare places in the world which causes stress corrosion cracking in stainless steel, leading to bolt failure.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_44SfiWpNnRVu6h8bnqGEd5DVTrUBctFWGmbMci6Q7CFp1h3IorDZKTJdfvqLQutZ6GQ0InFIq635yRdum-MFECz1hIVZpa5d5dH1KGsVvDS0lUls4CsQ8QglOocROmiBJ5shjikz/s1600/josh1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_44SfiWpNnRVu6h8bnqGEd5DVTrUBctFWGmbMci6Q7CFp1h3IorDZKTJdfvqLQutZ6GQ0InFIq635yRdum-MFECz1hIVZpa5d5dH1KGsVvDS0lUls4CsQ8QglOocROmiBJ5shjikz/s320/josh1.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Josh at Eagle Wall.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I got in touch with Josh Lyons in Tonsai, the man with the whip behind the Thaitanium Project to see how the 2012 rebolting push was progressing...<br />
<br />
<b>Lee:</b> "Hey Josh. I see you're back in Thailand once again for the <a href="http://thaitaniumproject.com/" target="_blank">Thaitanium Project</a> rebolting initiative. How many years have you guys been going back with the main focus of rebolting?"<br />
<br />
<b>Josh:</b> "This is the second official year of the Thaitanium Project. Although they have been re-bolting with Titanium bolts for over 10 years now, we just never gave it a name. Back then I guess we still thought of Titanium bolts as just another experiment. After about five years in the rock the bolts still look like the day we put them in and that gave us a lot more confidence to continue to put in Titanium. It wasn't until the bolt price went through the roof that we started the project."<br />
<br />
<b>Lee:</b> "My <a href="http://www.upskillclimbing.com/2011/03/titanium-bolts-answer-for-thailand.html">article</a> from 2011 explained why we need titanium bolts in southern Thailand. Have you been told any scary stories from the past season?"<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6cCciZ8gIYSiPD7oxPHCsqyekESKyXd1FPyIUmMoswFutZxNQlNytUyw3y5m0bUzqdpmoUoQD12CdntQ7jH-OTZttZyOua3fDTMsOcdEf87nrh2DioR7nkwGIDi4xMcNLGCswuPr0/s1600/thai-bad-bolts-6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6cCciZ8gIYSiPD7oxPHCsqyekESKyXd1FPyIUmMoswFutZxNQlNytUyw3y5m0bUzqdpmoUoQD12CdntQ7jH-OTZttZyOua3fDTMsOcdEf87nrh2DioR7nkwGIDi4xMcNLGCswuPr0/s200/thai-bad-bolts-6.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stress corrosion cracking on a Fixe ringbolt.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Josh:</b> "Unfortunately yes! We had a team of climbers on the big multipitch climbs on the <b><span style="color: purple;">Sleeping Indian Wall</span></b> and broke bolts at a couple of the anchors. So back in the day, one of the methods of re-bolting with Titanium [bolts] when they were not readily available was to sometimes only put Titanium bolts at the crux of the pitch and one at the anchor. Of course with the idea that they would be re-bolted in the future. Unfortunately we have not gotten to them as of yet but they are high on the list for next year."<br />
<br />
<b>Lee:</b> "So last year you guys had a focus of rebolting the entire sector of <b><span style="color: purple;">The Keep</span></b> and you achieved that, and more. What is the goal for this year, and how is progress?"<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD2Tnpb7X8iotg8HUrcpQezlIMKWH08SG3zPP_zVHhoXlcAH9RSbm9pK1hdjQyxmM0or19CkEfwDyRIpTEIl_pxI5fCT-LzsuFPqG_OrDAWMpLynXgunmiM1XoBYo3I_ZMWAaLBgSC/s1600/abomination.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD2Tnpb7X8iotg8HUrcpQezlIMKWH08SG3zPP_zVHhoXlcAH9RSbm9pK1hdjQyxmM0or19CkEfwDyRIpTEIl_pxI5fCT-LzsuFPqG_OrDAWMpLynXgunmiM1XoBYo3I_ZMWAaLBgSC/s320/abomination.jpg" width="228" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Several generations of hardware on <i>Greed</i> 8c. <br />
Newly placed Ti bolt on right. All other bolts<br />
were later removed.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Josh:</b> "Right, the idea last year was to experiment with doing both a kind of piecemeal method of only doing a few popular climbs at a bunch of areas and also the siege tactic of picking a crag and re-bolting the whole damn thing. <b><span style="color: purple;">The Keep</span></b> was a huge success and it seems like folks really like the idea of having the whole area re-bolted so they don't have to think about anything but sending their project. As it turns out the siege method also makes the re-bolting logistically much easier. So this year we wanted to do the siege method on another crag which ended up being <b><span style="color: purple;">Eagle Wall</span></b>. Luckily this year we raised enough money to buy another hammer drill. This meant that we could be re-bolting at two different locations at the same time. So along with the <b><span style="background-color: white; color: purple;">Eagle Wall</span></b> we were able to do some piecemeal re-bolting and re-bolted <i>Equatorial</i> on <b><span style="color: purple;">Thaiwand Wall</span></b>, a few routes on the <b><span style="color: purple;">Tyrolean Wall</span></b> and <i>Greed</i>, which I believe is the hardest route in Thailand. <b style="color: red;">All in all we placed around 300 bolts again this year.</b>"<br />
<br />
<b>Lee: "</b>You're great at getting other random climbers involved in the initiative, and it's often under your guidance that people get their first taste of bolting. Passing on those skills must be satisfying? Have you got a good crew this year? What nationalities are represented?"<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrS7ggBEJI0V6IzPv-J2TxuKWNiQ2qLpx3rRZjoazaHiplMO4Td5yya9qLZnIZBSy9CZLKYQQ_oWO-I0TNhm9dIrHHK-gmkM1wZTAOEj17thmzO8QQHIrkmBtWLTdO_lU4qHgklROP/s1600/josh3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrS7ggBEJI0V6IzPv-J2TxuKWNiQ2qLpx3rRZjoazaHiplMO4Td5yya9qLZnIZBSy9CZLKYQQ_oWO-I0TNhm9dIrHHK-gmkM1wZTAOEj17thmzO8QQHIrkmBtWLTdO_lU4qHgklROP/s400/josh3.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Will rebolt for beer.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Josh: </b>"I do try to get volunteers but it is really nice to keep the crew small. Most of the folks that want to volunteer are people that have bolting experience or are in the rope access world. The people that approach me that want to get their first taste of bolting need to go through a few days of belaying and groundwork before they get to touch anything like the drill. For the most part once they see the process we go through day to day they start to realize or they remember themselves that it's kinda hard and they are on a holiday and call it good after about a half day. If they stick around for a while and get to actually do something like gluing or drilling they quickly realize that people are going to fall on these bolts and that they can't fuck this up. So the process itself weeds out the riff-raff and I am left with a good crew of folks that not only understand the importance of re-bolting this place but also the importance of doing it right.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipUt8XkHG4p19wQZQfkSSvzuRgx5mbVAvzNgWdLGkGiNiJWqzB5YB_8_eK_KGADUeeDjIS-gELSOZF5ehGtHaiI8e_Enrm7pCg2M4AcAa1qQyS2Z2iYKCNCIljYcDLly6Oe-77qLMo/s1600/josh2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="135" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipUt8XkHG4p19wQZQfkSSvzuRgx5mbVAvzNgWdLGkGiNiJWqzB5YB_8_eK_KGADUeeDjIS-gELSOZF5ehGtHaiI8e_Enrm7pCg2M4AcAa1qQyS2Z2iYKCNCIljYcDLly6Oe-77qLMo/s200/josh2.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grinder time.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This year we were very lucky in that we had a lot of rope access folks. I can't say enough about how important it was to have these guys on the grinders. Nobody has ever done anything like this before so we have to figure a lot of this out as we go. Cutting the old bolts out is hands down the most dangerous part of the re-bolting process and to have guys that are used to having a two rope system and figuring it out on the fly was priceless!<br />
<br />
This year again we had a very multicultural team with folks from Australia, Wales, Sicily, Sweden, England, Russia, Canada, Germany, Taiwan, Switzerland, USA, Cyprus, Norway and France."<br />
<br />
<b>Lee:</b> "So how can you afford to do this? How much do the bolts cost, and where is the money coming from?"<br />
<br />
<b>Josh:</b> "Well that is a good question. We can afford to do this because we have caring and generous folks out there that want to see Tonsai survive. We raised almost $2,000 last year from the DVD's, T-shirt sales and through donations. We also have teamed up with the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA) <a href="http://www.safeclimbing.com/">www.safeclimbing.com</a> who has very generously apportioned enough money to buy at least 200 of the bolts we get a year. This has freed up some money to purchase things like a new drill and a couple of angle grinders."<br />
<br />
<b>Lee:</b> "How can people donate to the cause?"<br />
<br />
<b>Josh:</b> "Folks who would like to donate to the cause can go to <a href="http://www.thaitaniumproject.com/">www.thaitaniumproject.com</a> and using Paypal, they can donate directly to the project. This spring I will be working to get the film available for download off the same site. So stay tuned!"<br />
Thanks Josh!<br />
<br />
I think I speak for nearly all climbers when I say a big thank you to Josh and all the other climbers who have donated their time to help the cause. Rebolting is tiring, largely thankless work and these guys and gals are not being paid to do it. They could be mooching around and having a proper holiday. So give them some props and <a href="http://thaitaniumproject.com/" target="_blank">donate</a>!<br />
<br />
<b>BUY TITANIUM BOLTS:</b><br />
<br />
2013 update: If this article has you curious and you want to buy some of these amazing titanium bolts for your own routes and rebolting efforts, the guy to speak with is Martin Roberts who has now been producing and supplying the Thaitanium Project for the last few years. He now has a website where you can purchase his titanium bolts: <a href="http://www.titanclimbing.com/">http://www.titanclimbing.com/</a>.<br />
<br />
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<write an="" out-tro=""><br />
</write><div class="blogger-post-footer"><br/><br/>Lee Cujes</div>Lee Cujeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-36949578697521643752012-02-14T15:01:00.000+11:002012-02-14T15:01:50.258+11:00Ask The Coach #6: Training Series 1/3: Beating the pump!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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In this quarter's issue of <a href="http://www.rock.com.au/" target="_blank">ROCK Magazine</a>, I begin the first of a three-part training series on the main building blocks you need to address as part of a yearly training plan.<br />
<br />
In this case, because it's the first one we're starting with the building blocks and that is ARC (Aerobic Restoration and Capillarity) training and PE (Power Endurance) training.<br />
<br />
If you want to beat the pump, this is required reading.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrzKdcL8NwSOMDxMvC3zZAnJjYvySJsmlaKJvI6pEaNoagqTexcmKyhtJkUGbiqUYhVvSAJpoKcEM-vvfLjMEEbKspUAXl9rnsz8-dFesT4hyphenhyphenVQQYuOZzOJD3SlevLrAgm9pTFEyNm/s1600/ask-the-coach-issue-89.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrzKdcL8NwSOMDxMvC3zZAnJjYvySJsmlaKJvI6pEaNoagqTexcmKyhtJkUGbiqUYhVvSAJpoKcEM-vvfLjMEEbKspUAXl9rnsz8-dFesT4hyphenhyphenVQQYuOZzOJD3SlevLrAgm9pTFEyNm/s640/ask-the-coach-issue-89.jpg" width="448" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Click to view bigger.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Stay tuned for parts two and three!<div class="blogger-post-footer"><br/><br/>Lee Cujes</div>Lee Cujeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-35449801865570281042012-01-29T23:45:00.000+11:002012-01-29T23:45:57.417+11:00Mere Mortal's Guide to Beasting the Beastmaker 45° SlopersThe Beastmaker 2000 is a wooden hangboard produced by a couple of lads in the UK and is now available worldwide. It's good. I've posted about it <a href="http://www.upskillclimbing.com/2009/05/beastmaker-doth-come.html">before</a>. My board was in the first shipment to hit Australia back in 2009.<br />
<br />
Anyway let's get down to business. You're reading this because you are a mere mortal like me and the Beastmaker slopers feel impossible to hang.<br />
<br />
Beastmaker 2000 has three sloper angles: 20<span class="st">°, </span>35<span class="st">° and </span>45<span class="st">°.</span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixIrDNwUEyDlKYwmqFZBC9F-EFQLgPpWejwsG83WF3HTxm2Cf536gTDJPjNY7mwQasjw1qod5hGTRIvo0SbeXoC9PRd62dAaubuz6-6imNJYzEjrZ1kpvNpZx_3MvR56Y69ElkVcHh/s1600/Beastmaker-annotated.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixIrDNwUEyDlKYwmqFZBC9F-EFQLgPpWejwsG83WF3HTxm2Cf536gTDJPjNY7mwQasjw1qod5hGTRIvo0SbeXoC9PRd62dAaubuz6-6imNJYzEjrZ1kpvNpZx_3MvR56Y69ElkVcHh/s400/Beastmaker-annotated.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beastmaker 2000 grip layout</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span class="st"> I naturally favour an open-hand grip and avoid crimps (opposite of most people) so when I got my board I could immediately do a couple of chinups on the </span>35<span class="st">° slopers. Some people I coach who are good climbers struggle to even hang these. Don't worry if this is you.</span><br />
<br />
<span class="st">In your quest for the </span>45<span class="st">° chinup, you'll need to get comfortable on the </span>35<span class="st">°'s.<b> </b></span><br />
<br />
<span class="st"><b>Before doing anything</b></span><br />
<ul>
<li><span class="st">Warm up thoroughly. If I go to my board now and try to hit the slopers I will immediately fall off. They'll feel impossible. It is vital to warm up these grips. Do some bouldering. Use easier grips like the </span>20<span class="st">° sloper</span><span class="st">. Spend 20 minutes or so building up the squeeze you're going to need.<br /></span></li>
</ul>
<b><br />Cheating</b><br />
<ul>
<li>Nestling your fingers into the ridges, using your thumb, or any other kind of malarky to provide assistance is only cheating yourself. I also find that it doesn't help with progression on the slopers. Follow my guide below instead.<br /><br /></li>
</ul>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1EYU0stLjrKNIQtrPodJDjYI2V2XEMQsMF0jeX_nNDtogwSqe3gZLOlBtUd8iamkFCRl4hyphenhyphen_2dWHgy3JaS1TqmPgYeUxaSeDjd1Bdf7ufRjr5r79OVhReshELftgRu3HX5vYDnje7/s1600/beast45s.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1EYU0stLjrKNIQtrPodJDjYI2V2XEMQsMF0jeX_nNDtogwSqe3gZLOlBtUd8iamkFCRl4hyphenhyphen_2dWHgy3JaS1TqmPgYeUxaSeDjd1Bdf7ufRjr5r79OVhReshELftgRu3HX5vYDnje7/s400/beast45s.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grip on the 45<span class="st">°s</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><span class="st">A word on grip</span></b><br />
<ul>
<li><span class="st">I always thought maximising the amount of skin on the wood was the key to success. However, as soon as I begun work on the 45</span><span class="st">°s, I realised that the best grip was two pads only as shown above.</span></li>
</ul>
<br />
<b>Stage 1</b><br />
<ul>
<li>5 chinups on the 20<span class="st">° sloper. Should be easy for most climbers.</span></li>
</ul>
<br />
<b><span class="st">Stage 2 - Beasting the 35</span><span class="st">°'s</span></b><span class="st"> </span><br />
<ul>
<li><span class="st">Deadhang the </span>35<span class="st">° slopers. If you're struggling, put one hand on the 20</span><span class="st">°</span><span class="st"> and the other on the 35</span><span class="st">°</span><span class="st">. Hang this for as long as you can, then switch. You'll notice a tendency to barndoor as you do this because the grip on the 20</span><span class="st">°</span><span class="st"> is much stronger than the grip on the 35</span><span class="st">°</span><span class="st">. Control this!</span></li>
<li><span class="st">Once deadhangs are no problem, start chinups. You will find it is hardest to control the down part of the motion. Make sure you have a mat under your board as you could fall hard on your tailbone.</span></li>
<li><span class="st">Work up to about 5 very controlled chinups (in a row). Once you're at this point you're ready for Stage 3.</span></li>
</ul>
<br />
<b><span class="st">Stage 3 - The Dreaded 45</span><span class="st">°s!</span></b><br />
<ul>
<li><span class="st">You're </span><span class="st">not going to be able to deadhang the 45</span><span class="st">°s straight away. So we are going to share grips. One hand on a 35</span><span class="st">°, the other on the 45</span><span class="st">°. Deadhang, and twirl off gracefully (you'll see what I mean). Now swap. You're building up the squeeze power on the 45</span><span class="st">°s.</span></li>
<li><span class="st">Mixed-grip chinups. </span><span class="st">One hand on a 35</span><span class="st">°, the other on the 45</span><span class="st">°. Chinup (and down) cleanly. Swap.</span></li>
<li><span class="st">Multiple mixed-grip chinups. </span><span class="st">One hand on a 35</span><span class="st">°, the other on the 45</span><span class="st">°. Chinup (and down) cleanly TWICE. You're now on the cusp, hang in there. Once you can do THREE of these it's time. Get the video camera.</span></li>
<li><span class="st">Chinup the 45</span><span class="st">°s. You'll most likely slip off on the way back down. Keep at it and nail your first clean 45</span><span class="st">° chinup! <span style="color: red;">FEEL THE POWER!</span> Now update your Facebook status.</span><span class="st"> </span><b><span class="st"> </span></b></li>
</ul>
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<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/35829837?portrait=0" width="450" height="253" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe>
<br><br>
<b>How often? How long?</b><br />
<ul>
<li>Let motivation be your guide. One or two sessions a week, with your other climbing and training should do it. From the point when I could do a handful of clean chinups on the 35<span class="st">°s, I was 10 sessions away from my first 45</span><span class="st">° chinup (doing 1-2 sessions a week). I was doing a fairly standard hangboard session (crimps, pockets etc.) with slopers thrown in at the end. Your mileage may vary. </span>Let me know if this works for you. </li>
</ul>
<br />
<b><span class="st">Board/skin prep</span></b><br />
<ul>
<li><span class="st">Get a big soft brush for brushing slopers between each attempt. Like a dustbin brush. Really helps.</span></li>
<li><span class="st">Chalk up, wipe off any excess, then breathe hot warm air onto your fingers.</span></li>
</ul>
<br />
<b>Humidity</b><br />
<ul>
<li>In a stark opposite to regular rock climbing, humidity makes a HUGE difference - it's good! If it is cold and dry you are going to struggle your arse off. I did my first 45 chinup in pouring rain, 100% humidity and high temperature. I was training regularly and keeping notes, and this humidity manifested in ridiculous personal bests on the board. </li>
</ul>
<br />
<b>Different boards</b><br />
<ul>
<li>I am assured that well-loved boards (UK Climbing Works) are waaaay easier to use the slopers on. Oils exuding from people's skin seep into the wood and affect friction. By all accounts, The Works' board is sticky.</li>
<li>As you can imagine, 1<span class="st">° makes a big freakin difference. If you or someone else has installed the board on a surface that isn't exactly plumb, you're going to be in trouble, either in a good or bad way. Use an angle-finder to measure your slopers and ensure they're spot on.</span></li>
</ul>
<br />
If you have any other great sloper tips or frictional insights, please share in the comments.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><br/><br/>Lee Cujes</div>Lee Cujeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-40253092084138347852012-01-15T15:05:00.000+11:002012-01-15T15:05:54.864+11:00Blue Mountains PictorialAfter Christmas we packed the car and headed south on a 12 hour journey to one of Australia's finest and best known sport climbing locations, the Blue Mountains.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh09hpnmaAVKX8Kok_e6edquZe3kdYd0q0kMwal3w9KW5_6KRRBfgHKYGSA-Cgms1sckOI4o94R5Ee-GeHNQFjSMaBQG2n-MJxqR3aToQE4OKfLQEDSO5EWdnZLinw21s7lfH_TdPW2/s1600/2010blue_mountains_guide_large__74311_zoom.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh09hpnmaAVKX8Kok_e6edquZe3kdYd0q0kMwal3w9KW5_6KRRBfgHKYGSA-Cgms1sckOI4o94R5Ee-GeHNQFjSMaBQG2n-MJxqR3aToQE4OKfLQEDSO5EWdnZLinw21s7lfH_TdPW2/s200/2010blue_mountains_guide_large__74311_zoom.jpg" width="142" /></a></div>
The Blueies/Blueys/"The Mountains" are a really extensive area an hour or so west of Sydney and are home to well over 2,700 routes on gritty, sometimes chossy sandstone. You can check out the guidebook <a href="http://onsight.com.au/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=70&products_id=259" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
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Some of my fondest memories climbing come from the joys of the humble road trip with friends. I really do think I get just the same amount of excitement from going to a great area somewhere else in Australia as I do from going to a great area overseas. It's the opportunity to go to new cliffs and get on routes I wasn't able to get on the last time I was there.<br />
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I had a great week, and we really packed it in, taking only one rest day. In six days I'd managed four 25s, one 26, three 27s (one onsight) and one 28. I also put in some good work on routes I'd like to try again next time.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cops were on in full force on our New Years' drive down.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wrong turn on the way to the Freezer. Not good!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI5q2OSmzWgTO78_6Skp0eDSZKj7A5Fh8FLLMBbJ7iELWvXwjeYuxkd5JWGca5H6WtB-KKHf7JO6_Y_QLWMFdujFs_2ahdvzmtOe1WGSWujBgcbM_Hhk1KCMZjWN76bAiIr4X4u25F/s1600/IMG_1472.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI5q2OSmzWgTO78_6Skp0eDSZKj7A5Fh8FLLMBbJ7iELWvXwjeYuxkd5JWGca5H6WtB-KKHf7JO6_Y_QLWMFdujFs_2ahdvzmtOe1WGSWujBgcbM_Hhk1KCMZjWN76bAiIr4X4u25F/s400/IMG_1472.jpg" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Small epics are good for the soul.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgObmHnUNj_GSrO6_F1Zaes5QIeFelCJCr_Bu0ywhNa4ePC_SpAZKoxXYIuE3Nnuyepvf3ksMckduaHJX6UT7ki2_wGLdVzO4jFPHCEj32QN-vm-mNlMSItKXBC_nnXYPfPOS480RKj/s1600/IMG_6098.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgObmHnUNj_GSrO6_F1Zaes5QIeFelCJCr_Bu0ywhNa4ePC_SpAZKoxXYIuE3Nnuyepvf3ksMckduaHJX6UT7ki2_wGLdVzO4jFPHCEj32QN-vm-mNlMSItKXBC_nnXYPfPOS480RKj/s400/IMG_6098.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Duncan Steel on Ha Ha Wall 25/7b, The Freezer.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir0MmG_yNWuiHp2DKL5iufelC5imPbbcFz7wapydBL-R2V27p4hXZ3BymKZb-22yw56qwIoRKZ44P61Vvugjqh6H1F8xfnxbv6M6VHMGY5WlSiTpMu7SyzpvxvOq-vfN0KtxD4Zigo/s1600/IMG_6106.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir0MmG_yNWuiHp2DKL5iufelC5imPbbcFz7wapydBL-R2V27p4hXZ3BymKZb-22yw56qwIoRKZ44P61Vvugjqh6H1F8xfnxbv6M6VHMGY5WlSiTpMu7SyzpvxvOq-vfN0KtxD4Zigo/s640/IMG_6106.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Log Of Death. This thing which sits above a 40m drop has scared climbers for well over a decade.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhElEqGDUk1jFxjB1ZJCLc2wcXuvnSPMMswIyBIIjAyD7jp3sBEqRlr2-jFbXmrZdXwO4ZIuh9HBajyuCE0JQ-Nmqm6fZlQTsEGDVtDIGUN7I5y25ES3-Vv7X5mN_Sp1uNSbLP3r7xB/s1600/IMG_6120-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhElEqGDUk1jFxjB1ZJCLc2wcXuvnSPMMswIyBIIjAyD7jp3sBEqRlr2-jFbXmrZdXwO4ZIuh9HBajyuCE0JQ-Nmqm6fZlQTsEGDVtDIGUN7I5y25ES3-Vv7X5mN_Sp1uNSbLP3r7xB/s400/IMG_6120-2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">If you squint you can see me. Up high on Dicky Ticker 26/7b+, Freezer.<br />Cool wall - quite chossy!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjStKacoD2jwz1hbRZgqnYbt20rNIadzJe2lfrtF3m3affjXgmxGyK6F19-JYC2bpnwalEDt-mqS-SIQ-gHD0a29kpGlQNdZA0qGmWbN7ePtzW6E4oHumNxgW57Gx5iN2QibSIm5EId/s1600/IMG_6136.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjStKacoD2jwz1hbRZgqnYbt20rNIadzJe2lfrtF3m3affjXgmxGyK6F19-JYC2bpnwalEDt-mqS-SIQ-gHD0a29kpGlQNdZA0qGmWbN7ePtzW6E4oHumNxgW57Gx5iN2QibSIm5EId/s400/IMG_6136.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Summer flowers.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmh70SSLiFqAVrNM_0uZpOlGpNIE1SQchiruyqFgQb4V65U5UPBaVnXY7ExPkpxa4tT-1XtZEqoAKOZRt9Xq6Tr3qhAJR256d7Ypt8I_JgfJizosLpGcOcAiZ5t5wy0tnPIfOL-FMT/s1600/IMG_6140.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmh70SSLiFqAVrNM_0uZpOlGpNIE1SQchiruyqFgQb4V65U5UPBaVnXY7ExPkpxa4tT-1XtZEqoAKOZRt9Xq6Tr3qhAJR256d7Ypt8I_JgfJizosLpGcOcAiZ5t5wy0tnPIfOL-FMT/s400/IMG_6140.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the office.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhttscwY8Htut1o9kcufEeE2orAqx58UMY8oKyNx-T4dYJXvK44JP7r2oefJh_Sq2JWEMXEwpeJ4VtOUpfEFD0PL75UBLv_xPqDXdwjYMPGakO9_dLqYysTiu8U9MCRWQBmMb03iqSH/s1600/IMG_6165.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhttscwY8Htut1o9kcufEeE2orAqx58UMY8oKyNx-T4dYJXvK44JP7r2oefJh_Sq2JWEMXEwpeJ4VtOUpfEFD0PL75UBLv_xPqDXdwjYMPGakO9_dLqYysTiu8U9MCRWQBmMb03iqSH/s640/IMG_6165.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sam taking down the Ancient Mariner 19/6a+, Boronia Point.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsO-cjCvPeipvCBz1c4YoHNzbNA9oY4iVjXugvA4MWMJly12bq1iC8tvfdtEq-pGfGeXA2FzJdYfOzS_iTpoQCpkxIMHwDwfG77IG2uHJKo58ElmIU5LprGgoDjchT2iT0XVWWvO9q/s1600/IMG_6183.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsO-cjCvPeipvCBz1c4YoHNzbNA9oY4iVjXugvA4MWMJly12bq1iC8tvfdtEq-pGfGeXA2FzJdYfOzS_iTpoQCpkxIMHwDwfG77IG2uHJKo58ElmIU5LprGgoDjchT2iT0XVWWvO9q/s400/IMG_6183.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was a route I'd always wanted to try.<br />Don't Believe The Hype 29/8a, Boronia Point.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaJdMBAZA8s-qBnPc5n7ckGqn0Gy52RZIu5QV_79cD8B7W6kI03AzyH7XY4v21_96P1xwnGOvKAz1ygDYLwNp7fAww-pZCRX3IDT6-9NYD0Wc8LsupCf499QUclslf3TYA2xQr0ogX/s1600/IMG_6195.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaJdMBAZA8s-qBnPc5n7ckGqn0Gy52RZIu5QV_79cD8B7W6kI03AzyH7XY4v21_96P1xwnGOvKAz1ygDYLwNp7fAww-pZCRX3IDT6-9NYD0Wc8LsupCf499QUclslf3TYA2xQr0ogX/s400/IMG_6195.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Don't Believe The Hype 29/8a.<br />There's a million link-ups and variations on this well-loved piece of wall.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_3ijGdH_O8GNsYWqx6-Da3eTbbcI_AIq6XRrsuTy43NanGOZHsFjm5U5C3q9kxA9LKgUmwg7sDKs0J-C0iyD4ABSlzoJGoXZiu_Z-hP9YcKVKEXZyoYbu-leXZpdeRXdYwqq7I9KH/s1600/IMG_6200.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_3ijGdH_O8GNsYWqx6-Da3eTbbcI_AIq6XRrsuTy43NanGOZHsFjm5U5C3q9kxA9LKgUmwg7sDKs0J-C0iyD4ABSlzoJGoXZiu_Z-hP9YcKVKEXZyoYbu-leXZpdeRXdYwqq7I9KH/s400/IMG_6200.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lovely walk-in to a cliff near Bell.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXMPGbmTZHTEcDaMfNOwmQlv02z6ZxSsZnxPyAXUrRfo0KI-dqWOlqjrfJzJOH6P-0q-ESDV5lnP9KWHcwzKrvQ4x1Dtod4UPY20iCmN-XNwlbx27fL7kYfi6CGzgasJL_u5yIrzfM/s1600/IMG_6216.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXMPGbmTZHTEcDaMfNOwmQlv02z6ZxSsZnxPyAXUrRfo0KI-dqWOlqjrfJzJOH6P-0q-ESDV5lnP9KWHcwzKrvQ4x1Dtod4UPY20iCmN-XNwlbx27fL7kYfi6CGzgasJL_u5yIrzfM/s400/IMG_6216.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Where's the clip?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf8d96eWcRbPEi9n8NfYNtGZMuwrKWhfkHBpn6RAhrqnawmsAp3WIrHn2mK8Ey-zacuiaoyBmCBISIUIHhiDM28LU63t_FToJShuF4E-HutV-ZSSvoJ7UVBmTc6MpgjzoxT1_A2sD7/s1600/IMG_6227.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf8d96eWcRbPEi9n8NfYNtGZMuwrKWhfkHBpn6RAhrqnawmsAp3WIrHn2mK8Ey-zacuiaoyBmCBISIUIHhiDM28LU63t_FToJShuF4E-HutV-ZSSvoJ7UVBmTc6MpgjzoxT1_A2sD7/s640/IMG_6227.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sam on this cool 22/6c at Bell</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDKMoCrzkFf4JIiK_oquMNxQANruJK6zwbhleBDYgDeWq0DYMeRGsthbWKxpLm4PmKg8MxZEiWpZUf59PAmypZnsC4pmX9-5QypimYMLRaV8HeNJl6QGGlmZg8H5jE0eG47-v4pFmC/s1600/IMG_6242.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDKMoCrzkFf4JIiK_oquMNxQANruJK6zwbhleBDYgDeWq0DYMeRGsthbWKxpLm4PmKg8MxZEiWpZUf59PAmypZnsC4pmX9-5QypimYMLRaV8HeNJl6QGGlmZg8H5jE0eG47-v4pFmC/s640/IMG_6242.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sam at Bell</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgSGBJsC-QAXr6FyRfPNLFVoOHMQ7piQ-bT92vG_gkivJxOS9IYZvj1VhnZbeS20I7AblaAWSO5CjlCJfWkNetBGgKaHx9qCQ3tyD4h-zJMdFZfw_JwGfDfMM8BPMDdYIKHGiRngJ2/s1600/20120105-1723161.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgSGBJsC-QAXr6FyRfPNLFVoOHMQ7piQ-bT92vG_gkivJxOS9IYZvj1VhnZbeS20I7AblaAWSO5CjlCJfWkNetBGgKaHx9qCQ3tyD4h-zJMdFZfw_JwGfDfMM8BPMDdYIKHGiRngJ2/s400/20120105-1723161.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This action sequence of Erik somehow ended up on '<a href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/I-love-climbing/141230676349" target="_blank">I Love Climbing</a>' which meant it went onto 157,000+ people's Facebook. That's funny :)</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj551F7cgolTbaadTkOEKahJe_c4FRilGrXsQrx1bZ72Pw_tHotTkBSCD_lgsGZ4wR6_DyacGKZf34sNIuC2UJLQPwXxHSFPUpNq2DUvkXvaiTIFqi6Wk5MO_XWphjSlgF0Znv4Z8DA/s1600/IMG_6279.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj551F7cgolTbaadTkOEKahJe_c4FRilGrXsQrx1bZ72Pw_tHotTkBSCD_lgsGZ4wR6_DyacGKZf34sNIuC2UJLQPwXxHSFPUpNq2DUvkXvaiTIFqi6Wk5MO_XWphjSlgF0Znv4Z8DA/s640/IMG_6279.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What's going on here?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe8hPFH2yfDY19urfSV5RVWDUuV0PYLPzRI9t5DGHhdBdLDL7Lm0bhuQ1YKHVHHE_UY6VddMBQtgoMNioKLLkI4X0yDaoq3fIdbT5hAC9LA-94xNIgz0rjIXY0aDpTBemHZXKN4x35/s400/20120105-172316.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Duncan tries a MEGA SOUR candy :)<br />Check them out at the Leura Lolly Shop.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg1rhHQK_tnFjMCi6H47q6IqhNjOy1bgutx78snrdulBJzVZ-Ems3jp2iDTEhhEXndDfIj6lIliQ_1vKord2j5atXNOaoPc2PZlED8Qn4coIaxvRrxO5FoWpB8pSquEuqHO3icOyYl/s1600/IMG_6285.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg1rhHQK_tnFjMCi6H47q6IqhNjOy1bgutx78snrdulBJzVZ-Ems3jp2iDTEhhEXndDfIj6lIliQ_1vKord2j5atXNOaoPc2PZlED8Qn4coIaxvRrxO5FoWpB8pSquEuqHO3icOyYl/s400/IMG_6285.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbMkcns8Su3Uh865FfuK3PICQx0wmKlE7an6bHP1JIVgoLQpGX2EQbYpS9TieTIDfsEGWx5XJV1yADhh6cVIrDJj8w4TuWgLmP2esZ45dAGjiasM72olQZCmrsHb-reZPtuKmgjvSu/s1600/IMG_6286.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbMkcns8Su3Uh865FfuK3PICQx0wmKlE7an6bHP1JIVgoLQpGX2EQbYpS9TieTIDfsEGWx5XJV1yADhh6cVIrDJj8w4TuWgLmP2esZ45dAGjiasM72olQZCmrsHb-reZPtuKmgjvSu/s400/IMG_6286.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJexDBpWiLdbH7-CFJC00c0bWTkobb8H5aokZ2G_J5i8_QruCdHHhHggmqiG3R9AmwYUTkQgPu_tERJ0yZoYTxKO9oqlBSCF0OayQHQSJr3u-FX4l5JPumdWhu7rpgnljRnpSFjJJn/s1600/IMG_6306.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJexDBpWiLdbH7-CFJC00c0bWTkobb8H5aokZ2G_J5i8_QruCdHHhHggmqiG3R9AmwYUTkQgPu_tERJ0yZoYTxKO9oqlBSCF0OayQHQSJr3u-FX4l5JPumdWhu7rpgnljRnpSFjJJn/s400/IMG_6306.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I went back to try 'Don't Believe...' again but didn't quite have the freshness to get it in the bag. One to go back for!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_VVW8kRg585P-xJgDQoepHc7ymiUtgVRcsVGLIwFQQ4kKiNDwIu8aSPyhVGPNKU-qU7ptRUHPL92NKJXpD22NLKzWL0nw0I46LW0MxkZO-3k6aHx83AjycNzHmM8OOSkCS9dpjQZ2/s1600/IMG_6320.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_VVW8kRg585P-xJgDQoepHc7ymiUtgVRcsVGLIwFQQ4kKiNDwIu8aSPyhVGPNKU-qU7ptRUHPL92NKJXpD22NLKzWL0nw0I46LW0MxkZO-3k6aHx83AjycNzHmM8OOSkCS9dpjQZ2/s400/IMG_6320.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sam launching out the start flakes of Cowboy Clip 21/6b+, Boronia Point.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSSrzXt2d0KEUBnpeCdRJycJslJprH8_42uV_bnt3kUfAqZ62gfcO6gdoDi0JNAW-4S5jbdXnl1V5HJhEAYBzJyzDty9Wk3aZTc9dLT57JX7d3IwgSt6ai3r-DLVSGSSbTBIftMMaH/s1600/IMG_6371.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSSrzXt2d0KEUBnpeCdRJycJslJprH8_42uV_bnt3kUfAqZ62gfcO6gdoDi0JNAW-4S5jbdXnl1V5HJhEAYBzJyzDty9Wk3aZTc9dLT57JX7d3IwgSt6ai3r-DLVSGSSbTBIftMMaH/s640/IMG_6371.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My final day of climbing was at the hard-man&woman's cliff of Diamond Falls.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCZUIJgKVsUdc3e7WC00UY1TUgItasVc7xYLUnBFFF_ZrnV9ig76sinaaGaPmXgjeMbLHVHVIxiJQYTx6EUPZ5EQ44frluRFfECtSxSiE-k1IGgrS4pRV_z_f8mhIhU29zaMMUkk0s/s1600/IMG_6413.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCZUIJgKVsUdc3e7WC00UY1TUgItasVc7xYLUnBFFF_ZrnV9ig76sinaaGaPmXgjeMbLHVHVIxiJQYTx6EUPZ5EQ44frluRFfECtSxSiE-k1IGgrS4pRV_z_f8mhIhU29zaMMUkk0s/s640/IMG_6413.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Amanda Cossey showed me how it's done on Fresh Goat's Milk 28/7c+, a popular variation on Hairline 2000 </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTmfHnvZLNFaS797pW2HYgB1wX8VWNtltFGvwyA-0b10I06kX7h9B842NAM1y74Wu8YqfhJ1UfSBb7KTfAoBIYBROwBMgwPbU4CkVoHLlEYeVlMlmcBkGkZhFGQ8AE4eQDJTTP1XPy/s1600/IMG_6380.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTmfHnvZLNFaS797pW2HYgB1wX8VWNtltFGvwyA-0b10I06kX7h9B842NAM1y74Wu8YqfhJ1UfSBb7KTfAoBIYBROwBMgwPbU4CkVoHLlEYeVlMlmcBkGkZhFGQ8AE4eQDJTTP1XPy/s640/IMG_6380.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taking the whip!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzhe8PTIv41qntOwEgR2gsm3oAYs_chPYH1jUQkn7PFHTbtYsSVSoUaqUaZ0dfJKJXC2FIHqM4sjIMlccVE-oOREu2gQW8-BdKhvScacFCJpvNiQRc6qE43N0CD-jPXrdGRQzivxdR/s1600/IMG_6425-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzhe8PTIv41qntOwEgR2gsm3oAYs_chPYH1jUQkn7PFHTbtYsSVSoUaqUaZ0dfJKJXC2FIHqM4sjIMlccVE-oOREu2gQW8-BdKhvScacFCJpvNiQRc6qE43N0CD-jPXrdGRQzivxdR/s400/IMG_6425-2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jake Bresnehan on Dogbite 31/8b</td></tr>
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Roadtrips are great for recharging the psyche! Okay, time to start training again!<div class="blogger-post-footer"><br/><br/>Lee Cujes</div>Lee Cujeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-39970726196634719102011-12-18T18:21:00.000+11:002011-12-18T18:21:50.680+11:00Adam Ondra's training regimeHere's a collection of training tidbits from the world's best climber.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv8BEyeR2M3D1dP2xhMPgc_cI9G5uFd1sKBfnppNWk6mO1ItF_usXUOQWUJHsp4TtKrKuTSkv5Ax326TPYCKFBUcrcYKCIXxAUP2zxRMRzs5llr0kiPdwQxRgA28Qry50wuDAjS6yC/s1600/ondra.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="154" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv8BEyeR2M3D1dP2xhMPgc_cI9G5uFd1sKBfnppNWk6mO1ItF_usXUOQWUJHsp4TtKrKuTSkv5Ax326TPYCKFBUcrcYKCIXxAUP2zxRMRzs5llr0kiPdwQxRgA28Qry50wuDAjS6yC/s200/ondra.jpg" width="200" /></a><b>Adam Ondra's training regime
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<i>"I train more or less just by climbing. How simple! I train on couple of small bouldering walls, where I train endurance and bouldering power as well. I rarely climb indoor with rope because there are not good walls enough in the city. The way I train depends on what I am training for. If I am preparing for bouldering, I do just lot of hard boulders. If I train endurance I do laps. I figure out usually 20 move lap and try to climb 3 times. 60 moves are usually more than enough. </i><span style="font-size: x-small;">[<a href="http://www.upskillclimbing.com/2008/07/using-circuits-to-train-power-endurance.html" target="_blank">See Upskill article on circuits</a>]</span><i> Good trick how to become stronger is to use ONLY micro footholds for your feet. You work on your power and precise footwork at the same time. I do not train more than 3 days in a row."
</i><br />
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<b>Getting good fast<br /></b><br />
<i>"I would not say I have become better fast. I have been getting stronger more or less the same level a year since I was 8. In my early steps in climbing I climbed just onsights and sometimes 10 routes a day."
</i><br />
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<b>What do you do?<br /></b><br />
<i>"Rock – sport climbing 85%, bouldering 15%.<br /><br />Plastic – most of the time I train on bouldering walls, but on these bouldering walls I train endurance as well </i>[see above]<i>. I only climb indoor routes around twice a month. In winter, I climb on plastic five days a week, for two to three hours a day. During all other seasons, I usually climb on the rock, even after school and only on plastic for two weeks before the competitions."
</i><br />
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<b>Training partners?
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqNViI7vC0m3TPcSsLLXc4sBCzfX7PLx9DL16R8DPn2hfUlDHheLJkRLnC2M_SCitztNwDzCilcl_whateXlk6YDbY8d8joiEivqP5uGYKuog5UYXZpPUD1JPtXAZx0pbIA3J5O4Bq/s1600/adam-ondra-sister.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="132" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqNViI7vC0m3TPcSsLLXc4sBCzfX7PLx9DL16R8DPn2hfUlDHheLJkRLnC2M_SCitztNwDzCilcl_whateXlk6YDbY8d8joiEivqP5uGYKuog5UYXZpPUD1JPtXAZx0pbIA3J5O4Bq/s200/adam-ondra-sister.jpg" width="200" /></a><i>"More than half of the time I train alone. If I don't train alone, I love to climb with my sister, when we're bouldering it works quite well, we only have to figure out two different variations on the problems. I also train with Martin Stranik or I sometimes go to train with Tomas Mrazek, who has a really good bouldering wall in his house."
</i><br />
<b><br />No hangboarding, no campus-boarding?
<br /></b><br />
<i>"Yeah, I train just in winter on small bouldering walls. The only exception when I go climbing indoor is time before European Youth Series and Youth World Championship."
</i><br />
<b><br />Fitting climbing in with school
<br /></b><br />
<i>"My training has been just climbing two hours on the wall, so still a lot of time remains for me to study something if it is essential. In fact we go climbing abroad more or less just at weekends, so I do not miss school too much. Not enormously more than my classmates. Only on the rare occasions that we go climbing for longer trips. There are usually a few hectic school days after my arrival home from such a trip, but on the other hand - what one would not do for 14 days of climbing..."
</i><br />
<b><br />Diet and nutrition
<br /></b><br />
<i>"I care about what I eat and try eat in some healthy way and to get enough proteins and vitamins, try to think what would be good dinner for fast recovery and so on, but I do not restrict myself in amount of food. When I am hungry, I eat. I have advantage that I can really a lot and I do not put on weight.
</i><br />
<i><br />My favourite meal is pasta with various sauces before a climbing day and fish with basmati rice or couscous before a rest day."
</i><br />
<b><br />What does Adam recommend for other people's training?
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigaYSZIppo_mJaRFLpwpcwSz3MGJelc1XLBeVhu0q4tc8DOGtlwVqwq2_UJdSQibBGeDLRaca7P0L5JfW2LYzJpp79bAOlIMzrqFEeVkYFRFo5_nP9ySCcxw_2pM_wrqkxJ6sRKNud/s1600/ondra2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="128" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigaYSZIppo_mJaRFLpwpcwSz3MGJelc1XLBeVhu0q4tc8DOGtlwVqwq2_UJdSQibBGeDLRaca7P0L5JfW2LYzJpp79bAOlIMzrqFEeVkYFRFo5_nP9ySCcxw_2pM_wrqkxJ6sRKNud/s200/ondra2.jpg" width="200" /></a><i>"If they start climbing, to climb many easy routes on the rocks onsight to get good technique. It is hard to get technique when you can do 10 one-arm pull-ups. Better to train power later. For [an already] exceptional climber, it is hard to advise. It depends on what you want train. But for sure it is important to have some base."
</i><br />
<b><br />Adam Ondra on injuries
<br /></b><br />
<i>"I have a curved spine (like all climbers), but as well mine is also curved to one side. Because of it I am training mostly on an exercise ball, specifically some exercises in order to train the muscles around my backbone. Anyway, I have been lucky with some other injuries. Once I fell quite badly under the second bolt, head-first, but fortunately the only result was a lump."
</i>
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<b>Secrets of success
<br /></b><br />
<i>"Hard to say, success depends on many factors, I think. Firstly, I have big talent for climbing and had the best conditions possible to work on my talent, thanks to my parents. I had possibility to climb outdoors all the time and to improve my technique and efficiency in climbing. Secondly, I became soon totally obsessed by climbing. If you train and climb by your heart and passion, everything goes way easier. What more? I do not know, maybe the way of my climbing (fast, efficient and, if everything is OK, precise)."</i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAqeZFCXn1pn8yAOA7k5W10C_uWARsu1cYH73sAdlDY60P75nsUgA3mOfdmnBzrAniKNGshNlCTpHCjLtL9oTGx6yWf3xXYiOOCRzHtHCXf6eeDb3n_8kevDcLTxn9V-fjGtVkjpIh/s1600/ondra3.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAqeZFCXn1pn8yAOA7k5W10C_uWARsu1cYH73sAdlDY60P75nsUgA3mOfdmnBzrAniKNGshNlCTpHCjLtL9oTGx6yWf3xXYiOOCRzHtHCXf6eeDb3n_8kevDcLTxn9V-fjGtVkjpIh/s1600/ondra3.jpeg" /></a></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><br/><br/>Lee Cujes</div>Lee Cujeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-42801792520297626442011-12-08T20:45:00.000+11:002011-12-08T20:45:25.011+11:00Climbkalymnos interviews Lee Cujes<a href="http://climbkalymnos.com/">Climbkalymnos.com</a>, the premier site of all things Kalymnos just published an interview with me.<br />
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I talk about some random stuff, as well as the camps we ran in Kalymnos this year and why I reckon the place is so good. <br />
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Click <a href="http://climbkalymnos.com/?p=5980" target="_blank">this link</a> to check it out.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5aR4YN10EujfUPs-t3FIRkO9EC_KM_QpPwa3oPpcPFGteo8odQGVPfJ3rb6nsoDT9fs1ndF8kwscbXR1ncOo5LHvFEEvKZfYPb3_ATfWWSEGyvoF3x8KBJ8-aTk8uSDdvuBKv_y2V/s1600/lee-cujes-interview.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5aR4YN10EujfUPs-t3FIRkO9EC_KM_QpPwa3oPpcPFGteo8odQGVPfJ3rb6nsoDT9fs1ndF8kwscbXR1ncOo5LHvFEEvKZfYPb3_ATfWWSEGyvoF3x8KBJ8-aTk8uSDdvuBKv_y2V/s400/lee-cujes-interview.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer"><br/><br/>Lee Cujes</div>Lee Cujeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-54704167213969263602011-11-18T18:29:00.000+11:002011-11-18T18:29:30.269+11:00Ask The Coach #5: Mental Training<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJSIzTUP01ZF_c6UV9QhKpBuP-xtHrBYC69SG_wnR-VDptvz-lWUfrNpl7M_wtaa7g5RvyZ4ZJq_HW2fM9JFIjEp9Nhw9KaaWMKEC_8bkJCgjAx4lsWw6JgZngeZeE_3vvF1UCVFgI/s1600/Rock-88-cover-med.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJSIzTUP01ZF_c6UV9QhKpBuP-xtHrBYC69SG_wnR-VDptvz-lWUfrNpl7M_wtaa7g5RvyZ4ZJq_HW2fM9JFIjEp9Nhw9KaaWMKEC_8bkJCgjAx4lsWw6JgZngeZeE_3vvF1UCVFgI/s200/Rock-88-cover-med.jpg" width="125" /></a></div>
So while I was in Kalymnos running our climbing camps I had ample opportunity to do weakness assessments on a stack of climbers (self included). I kept seeing the same weaknesses popping up again and again, and most of them had nothing to do with our physical selves.<br />
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I always say it. Climbing = 80% mental.<br />
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So, I thought it was high time to address some mental training. It's an area I'm very interested in, and I reckon all climbers can make good gains simply by paying attention to what's going on upstairs.<br />
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Oh yeah, go <a href="http://adventuregroup.myshopify.com/products/rock-subscription" target="_blank">subscribe to ROCK</a>. It's $31.95 per year.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhis2BBL-fZX6arm-LCO1ISwrTMwloLn0BVipWyUI5kGXUpGtfEkPGCLg2RNOPAAd0pwzO3AslkJKhVAxjPLDoVa_EYppkN3uIfkSRfLc93KzhypVZEGpvJZS2tPAFEA-Doignx07yX/s1600/rock-mag-ask-coach-cujes-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhis2BBL-fZX6arm-LCO1ISwrTMwloLn0BVipWyUI5kGXUpGtfEkPGCLg2RNOPAAd0pwzO3AslkJKhVAxjPLDoVa_EYppkN3uIfkSRfLc93KzhypVZEGpvJZS2tPAFEA-Doignx07yX/s640/rock-mag-ask-coach-cujes-5.jpg" width="442" /></a></div>
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<br /></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><br/><br/>Lee Cujes</div>Lee Cujeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-33259962654040618212011-11-18T10:49:00.000+11:002011-11-18T10:49:19.149+11:00Kalymnos 2 Week Photo Essay<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Just arrived home in Oz so we're going for a full <a href="http://www.joekindkid.com/" target="_blank">Joe Kinder</a>/<a href="http://www.coletteloc.com/" target="_blank">Coletteloc</a> style photo dump from the last two weeks in Kalymnos. Some of these don't even fit on this blog template. You know what? I don't care, it's art.<br />
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Enjoy the eye candy.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv6V1VGTUkyRah_2zduDpGFmB34M90YOMYQPMdkwDl8VX6XORhyphenhyphenBwWKzkaRCHgPV-erP9nY6qdEoFLCnUBmwxV1ZonhyKG4hSh6LZzKwy8xMInX2-fDrNSShe_Sf8oibWPYsBHb0CM/s1600/kaly-5168.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6gZBILkokP7VQlVzf3xRGxFFYUh77y1V-8JDjOwbgzdv1vr3mACkaNLAQxlJp-P0mpw2wW-IQorgUG7hkvctRc92W-5x8FZY_AsnYYg-11ip2B2qluq4zhguLrjj7GRsU4mgTrbvO/s1600/kaly-5182.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6gZBILkokP7VQlVzf3xRGxFFYUh77y1V-8JDjOwbgzdv1vr3mACkaNLAQxlJp-P0mpw2wW-IQorgUG7hkvctRc92W-5x8FZY_AsnYYg-11ip2B2qluq4zhguLrjj7GRsU4mgTrbvO/s400/kaly-5182.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lee, Hogo Fogo 7c flash</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kre, Island In The Sun 7a+</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIgzaSaEE1ixOlOsPI9t9RGUNzscWNufOPUxQgmky9srwGhIIxzStcBvZZmh5mBiqaC_u4hoGBDfgSsHfte8N9FuazkqT7fJrSgulNfOQPE6tEz9bX1SbbZ8P29FZvrlt9PJ8Pi2c6/s1600/kaly-5150.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIgzaSaEE1ixOlOsPI9t9RGUNzscWNufOPUxQgmky9srwGhIIxzStcBvZZmh5mBiqaC_u4hoGBDfgSsHfte8N9FuazkqT7fJrSgulNfOQPE6tEz9bX1SbbZ8P29FZvrlt9PJ8Pi2c6/s640/kaly-5150.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kre, Biloute 7a</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjftBZy-PMAY1_woCnGC7a6LD64UMd0-lvWXfYnTwFTXfugDLEJ1-NWy9t0ABvK6-eevmet_L-G-Q5LvWB2eTy0DG7L-Xd0JtKU6Of6dEm29tA6E6lLFf4v9rEYoTscBCi_5_qwDvtP/s1600/kaly-5211.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjftBZy-PMAY1_woCnGC7a6LD64UMd0-lvWXfYnTwFTXfugDLEJ1-NWy9t0ABvK6-eevmet_L-G-Q5LvWB2eTy0DG7L-Xd0JtKU6Of6dEm29tA6E6lLFf4v9rEYoTscBCi_5_qwDvtP/s640/kaly-5211.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Have you been to Olympic Wall? It's awesome, especially when it's cold.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Danny, King Cobra 7c+.<br />It's not every day I can say I put the gear up for Hayden Kennedy.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEPIjLWEPd2O896qWidL20Qlhyphenhyphenu-fG6ayNVCUoia6kyleUcjtMNzax_kcNksT14ps0DHFogRZszLnfNUcNRbyr1hQu8ol-hiF9m1_ue2gXMTx9uESWJLeRUoKCIs-UFrYRpS67XgFe/s1600/kaly-5261.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEPIjLWEPd2O896qWidL20Qlhyphenhyphenu-fG6ayNVCUoia6kyleUcjtMNzax_kcNksT14ps0DHFogRZszLnfNUcNRbyr1hQu8ol-hiF9m1_ue2gXMTx9uESWJLeRUoKCIs-UFrYRpS67XgFe/s200/kaly-5261.jpg" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dovi</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7byfmx9iya0yt7ygn8ohTx1wAdJHJc4q0MncvWtJsxvk6FROYT9Wfspjsdswn6RTL8g9_6wBgzP-m9QGUdbp3bp8jvEJ7KBaRfJRnoqf6UOIszea7tlP0dNkf-hw3e84sVTaQp8HM/s1600/kaly-5467.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7byfmx9iya0yt7ygn8ohTx1wAdJHJc4q0MncvWtJsxvk6FROYT9Wfspjsdswn6RTL8g9_6wBgzP-m9QGUdbp3bp8jvEJ7KBaRfJRnoqf6UOIszea7tlP0dNkf-hw3e84sVTaQp8HM/s200/kaly-5467.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fred</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv7UVsbLrUaxRzxJwfvqOSUwDo-eQdfKExIAA55QBiIz62pZVT3m_nYOI9xXfY2Aur5VGWdEoBdDt53o9p1rgvd-g1zaE-NOQQEYhlCenVi890Kt5ZTKXcMeAHOZsrrORChpF_y1E9/s1600/kaly-5537.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv7UVsbLrUaxRzxJwfvqOSUwDo-eQdfKExIAA55QBiIz62pZVT3m_nYOI9xXfY2Aur5VGWdEoBdDt53o9p1rgvd-g1zaE-NOQQEYhlCenVi890Kt5ZTKXcMeAHOZsrrORChpF_y1E9/s200/kaly-5537.jpg" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kaly medal</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv6V1VGTUkyRah_2zduDpGFmB34M90YOMYQPMdkwDl8VX6XORhyphenhyphenBwWKzkaRCHgPV-erP9nY6qdEoFLCnUBmwxV1ZonhyKG4hSh6LZzKwy8xMInX2-fDrNSShe_Sf8oibWPYsBHb0CM/s1600/kaly-5168.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="132" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv6V1VGTUkyRah_2zduDpGFmB34M90YOMYQPMdkwDl8VX6XORhyphenhyphenBwWKzkaRCHgPV-erP9nY6qdEoFLCnUBmwxV1ZonhyKG4hSh6LZzKwy8xMInX2-fDrNSShe_Sf8oibWPYsBHb0CM/s200/kaly-5168.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jorg</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzrHOF-aWCylz4kmdDgGY-50_9xRcri_IAmDKijt1QJfB79nVjtubC3aF67lLYzoUYLkLzRdKnp-0t7yTIhxKjyRNzeZuMH9hp-uxUJ103hUguIqt1zcpsWuvg6kEnj_48wa3LU8sV/s1600/kaly-5279.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzrHOF-aWCylz4kmdDgGY-50_9xRcri_IAmDKijt1QJfB79nVjtubC3aF67lLYzoUYLkLzRdKnp-0t7yTIhxKjyRNzeZuMH9hp-uxUJ103hUguIqt1zcpsWuvg6kEnj_48wa3LU8sV/s1600/kaly-5279.jpg" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh59Pvl9ahpeBlooJEcvk_3pCLTmwnVufCRDqiFu0ofUg4UvY-_eT_906O2H86unHkUpIjPzvNohRjHiz3pIs0A8tFX_ANBKJXLoRDQO9Cvm2ZshoY8QCd8hTCN3JdFtrsMuYLm257I/s1600/kaly-5331.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh59Pvl9ahpeBlooJEcvk_3pCLTmwnVufCRDqiFu0ofUg4UvY-_eT_906O2H86unHkUpIjPzvNohRjHiz3pIs0A8tFX_ANBKJXLoRDQO9Cvm2ZshoY8QCd8hTCN3JdFtrsMuYLm257I/s200/kaly-5331.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Coaches! Lee and Robbie.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEIAd_x2xWXmosXJI2Xk2xbhx2YJ5X9tTwc7-EzEHr1P34r9fUcx73FkSPFIvpBJAT6dFDXL0YiL7rY24pj6tQgc3eXj9w3NY0rLsHuk76jvI-Ln3vXHiMPUQtY4TiV26v-cW7umun/s1600/kaly-5313.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEIAd_x2xWXmosXJI2Xk2xbhx2YJ5X9tTwc7-EzEHr1P34r9fUcx73FkSPFIvpBJAT6dFDXL0YiL7rY24pj6tQgc3eXj9w3NY0rLsHuk76jvI-Ln3vXHiMPUQtY4TiV26v-cW7umun/s200/kaly-5313.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sam</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8oPJW1eIi40qdzMrdxoFxPm6Q1pVmtn_IA1rI9tW6OF6mRxKvgtXCGy_V2kdIkcBS6DTeggKL_OTS7Q3x-wUsgep-a82WEvk3s-s2mqghNBz4tZEtahdFjE97N-JY8g3PoTD_jO3n/s1600/kaly-5430.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8oPJW1eIi40qdzMrdxoFxPm6Q1pVmtn_IA1rI9tW6OF6mRxKvgtXCGy_V2kdIkcBS6DTeggKL_OTS7Q3x-wUsgep-a82WEvk3s-s2mqghNBz4tZEtahdFjE97N-JY8g3PoTD_jO3n/s640/kaly-5430.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sam, Ciao Vecio 6c</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8xbCwmZ7NQ6z_Tn0V_D-zVZU-oWhXyA8Cfa-bMVbAAOhjSH57nNta61gOe8tVT2bZwSFokP5TK1LweF2OQs8PTxr4A3ee67_dmOV6NGgdogNQHAhDzZOcSVFNXBxoNB-4KxRdzAqj/s1600/kaly-5402.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8xbCwmZ7NQ6z_Tn0V_D-zVZU-oWhXyA8Cfa-bMVbAAOhjSH57nNta61gOe8tVT2bZwSFokP5TK1LweF2OQs8PTxr4A3ee67_dmOV6NGgdogNQHAhDzZOcSVFNXBxoNB-4KxRdzAqj/s400/kaly-5402.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga2z0CCLTbtXNh89Di98GPFWuuBc3q3WvGhhv2A4zf2cfGvq4aQzlf6AvMqB0Do0n1WdkDoo26pAt2JZ3nrHdtHKHY00JSqsYwMT7ZiLYbj4UKwhn3eQyeOHxvSpF6Dqns5tGSfi1Q/s1600/kaly-5342.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga2z0CCLTbtXNh89Di98GPFWuuBc3q3WvGhhv2A4zf2cfGvq4aQzlf6AvMqB0Do0n1WdkDoo26pAt2JZ3nrHdtHKHY00JSqsYwMT7ZiLYbj4UKwhn3eQyeOHxvSpF6Dqns5tGSfi1Q/s200/kaly-5342.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEcR54Axnz4cUkd7dwwq4EtULaGbXOxxXV9kQcTQLxxQUwsn5lHamGuUSw-nPOfinuNaKYlxX4j6PTXG-Ib1JdkSsG2nee9s0BHOJpblgljd7K59lkXz8t86wjwN87rqr3XSU_h0_r/s1600/kaly-5334.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEcR54Axnz4cUkd7dwwq4EtULaGbXOxxXV9kQcTQLxxQUwsn5lHamGuUSw-nPOfinuNaKYlxX4j6PTXG-Ib1JdkSsG2nee9s0BHOJpblgljd7K59lkXz8t86wjwN87rqr3XSU_h0_r/s200/kaly-5334.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcY0TEOTajD3y39PUXby4Xc8iPF0x6ElJiER8kzY-YnTWzObtlKCcrRA-OSpawilJfU7Z4fso_y-tgZIdOCdxn9z8sMzdZPVuqWdh1_BKHJ1DSHaTaJfTFfzzG4EKcHv72toMgDpkw/s1600/kaly-5451.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcY0TEOTajD3y39PUXby4Xc8iPF0x6ElJiER8kzY-YnTWzObtlKCcrRA-OSpawilJfU7Z4fso_y-tgZIdOCdxn9z8sMzdZPVuqWdh1_BKHJ1DSHaTaJfTFfzzG4EKcHv72toMgDpkw/s640/kaly-5451.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kre, Fouska 7a</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIs4vAhz9GO2WLqKmhmVYYNXMts1dM76wIOrLOobw9VutXFnxdXHZhyS4jNstMqji0Jm8cfwjyXrlIABDlr8rvJaBYL7AUjzFMEeeIySTlf618CWPfm7LOW5gMs4qEwGanZwVYZJDH/s1600/kaly-5457.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIs4vAhz9GO2WLqKmhmVYYNXMts1dM76wIOrLOobw9VutXFnxdXHZhyS4jNstMqji0Jm8cfwjyXrlIABDlr8rvJaBYL7AUjzFMEeeIySTlf618CWPfm7LOW5gMs4qEwGanZwVYZJDH/s400/kaly-5457.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaiLAmyUnJO2gFZk6NcJzGedN09N72uHUPolLOgKUACkBB1fPKlucROEDFfPimG6DXVugA6THh-gE_30ASncfcFXT18VoSnCZ4kMTjwrz_sEDCrT7xpdK9jdYuUI0Re2dVa5b8a0N9/s1600/kaly-5533.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaiLAmyUnJO2gFZk6NcJzGedN09N72uHUPolLOgKUACkBB1fPKlucROEDFfPimG6DXVugA6THh-gE_30ASncfcFXT18VoSnCZ4kMTjwrz_sEDCrT7xpdK9jdYuUI0Re2dVa5b8a0N9/s400/kaly-5533.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4J8iKEFWxqid-SNaHjypHjvZ8OOjApQKEDnLmRjLt9af5pnLiKHcGkQKKuD1Oi0vtjSpzlT4qz6_3Z5LpwdcZ40Ovxcv7BXDArA2EjrGJ90XxfJIOvUEHsP4hCkr4OKeDHWUbjkx7/s1600/kaly-4997.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4J8iKEFWxqid-SNaHjypHjvZ8OOjApQKEDnLmRjLt9af5pnLiKHcGkQKKuD1Oi0vtjSpzlT4qz6_3Z5LpwdcZ40Ovxcv7BXDArA2EjrGJ90XxfJIOvUEHsP4hCkr4OKeDHWUbjkx7/s640/kaly-4997.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The fingers of Robbie Phillips, hand model. .</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho8XvM0OmbK0dwpIZTz3u5POvwg0_rJ5Ub8x6B8oXVRjTKVUtRWfZpCijjLEeDgLNkuPW07ZskcxE9BTlKiCROtyfF3gLexdJqCzT4JjZ8l-z4Rs70Zx_8yWLFeJGcFBOQIVXLoYTk/s1600/kaly-5557.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho8XvM0OmbK0dwpIZTz3u5POvwg0_rJ5Ub8x6B8oXVRjTKVUtRWfZpCijjLEeDgLNkuPW07ZskcxE9BTlKiCROtyfF3gLexdJqCzT4JjZ8l-z4Rs70Zx_8yWLFeJGcFBOQIVXLoYTk/s400/kaly-5557.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My biggest effort send of the trip, Sardonique 8a.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid6c6VYBpojZ13Qohs87BmOcarsp4AFNi8PiifU_2cAqIDu62PbyCOyPISd2mAumatD1iq14raLFFfZMeooNVGakA4wL9DjZEOpu-GKdKwt4J_LWC5X0oGrNVbZQpo_8llv809_DSM/s1600/kaly-5641.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid6c6VYBpojZ13Qohs87BmOcarsp4AFNi8PiifU_2cAqIDu62PbyCOyPISd2mAumatD1iq14raLFFfZMeooNVGakA4wL9DjZEOpu-GKdKwt4J_LWC5X0oGrNVbZQpo_8llv809_DSM/s400/kaly-5641.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sam, Pterodactyl 6b+</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhebBH4DRp5DzmqhEccpKgCIcFe206ctKpASI7_eFO8Kz3L-3INbwGGLb_uDYAgRq1nWEDIvgpmkCUHNhZPv3PWxMMabRvXcIS86q9E3lBaVdrISajdsd81Ap8AQI6vkqHKrmsdf1y1/s1600/kaly-5659.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhebBH4DRp5DzmqhEccpKgCIcFe206ctKpASI7_eFO8Kz3L-3INbwGGLb_uDYAgRq1nWEDIvgpmkCUHNhZPv3PWxMMabRvXcIS86q9E3lBaVdrISajdsd81Ap8AQI6vkqHKrmsdf1y1/s640/kaly-5659.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sam WHIPS!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVPiAgz_U_HmW5cZfSR7nq8tISHGoRIaH_hHM_UkPuvbWL94A5YXshBE01umfrHHquo7AgIn8NTDVF2kUczXTdjyABQAnbZhGPu6ZdXyTm1hCjoGUC70sTtqnr9aSLWhEEwKop-eUh/s1600/kaly-5621.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVPiAgz_U_HmW5cZfSR7nq8tISHGoRIaH_hHM_UkPuvbWL94A5YXshBE01umfrHHquo7AgIn8NTDVF2kUczXTdjyABQAnbZhGPu6ZdXyTm1hCjoGUC70sTtqnr9aSLWhEEwKop-eUh/s400/kaly-5621.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Danny, Houftasaurus 7b</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEMq7lRBOUQzFdt5H73k1GlXncVzn0lYf4kjSV5oxmmA9_aJPXERfdoQiUH5A0lnZMcrSKUp1FvuZHAnp5AG3XZpRz5r0Tu5sTIz2aa3h1RlldC5VgWJcvEGaEdlDXqZpiM8456_Ev/s1600/kaly-5564.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEMq7lRBOUQzFdt5H73k1GlXncVzn0lYf4kjSV5oxmmA9_aJPXERfdoQiUH5A0lnZMcrSKUp1FvuZHAnp5AG3XZpRz5r0Tu5sTIz2aa3h1RlldC5VgWJcvEGaEdlDXqZpiM8456_Ev/s400/kaly-5564.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me. Time for tape.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw2f74z2I8ACp8Cx43hq0uYOe_3sWdlC-Sp-uHbtEMiRNYdLzbchYlU5xyLgSgFQ4C7nZWUyDvDVgLTPQDrwVjPWgm0k0BlqYBZ26ZBB6XgN8kepPmPhf2N6REfV6Qtep_hf-4jXdi/s1600/kaly-5661.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw2f74z2I8ACp8Cx43hq0uYOe_3sWdlC-Sp-uHbtEMiRNYdLzbchYlU5xyLgSgFQ4C7nZWUyDvDVgLTPQDrwVjPWgm0k0BlqYBZ26ZBB6XgN8kepPmPhf2N6REfV6Qtep_hf-4jXdi/s400/kaly-5661.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fred, Fossil Wall 6c</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg31pzmvYR3otCt-qlS72sgkDJlPK1-RUWtoMYhHknhjQxSeuy8fEeLcwdFVnZERNxwc6bYjoizKQ3k3AbdXO-Crz3tOJqEEDHNiWMm6JGQ0P0iFHR7hvFEAPyCXRVlN3oyv1G3HwLR/s1600/kaly-5676.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg31pzmvYR3otCt-qlS72sgkDJlPK1-RUWtoMYhHknhjQxSeuy8fEeLcwdFVnZERNxwc6bYjoizKQ3k3AbdXO-Crz3tOJqEEDHNiWMm6JGQ0P0iFHR7hvFEAPyCXRVlN3oyv1G3HwLR/s400/kaly-5676.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3xiGXUFW6LoR6F3jbwKSokVwjxsCQnEJCQEtpfkIlVTacw84fbeoUgmwAnXK3ssYtSZutTqiwvmPYAyda4kYwE27KbWqBC9qZ2Y2fiUt5QivGk6cJ3IMZEk29wtwIZvjDo-TqDvFC/s1600/kaly-5694.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3xiGXUFW6LoR6F3jbwKSokVwjxsCQnEJCQEtpfkIlVTacw84fbeoUgmwAnXK3ssYtSZutTqiwvmPYAyda4kYwE27KbWqBC9qZ2Y2fiUt5QivGk6cJ3IMZEk29wtwIZvjDo-TqDvFC/s1600/kaly-5694.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Advanced rigging? WTF? .</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnRRhY7zL36dqQDFtK4zlLnmvV1YPniZcHI68pdo_t1G01Q3LfmktDgopJUyHV4awQZEDRcJ3BlYg2oFdE0H_3XMo2A_TEQgKrITQQUpp9lzj_LppbG6xfN5z-C4fRG2-KqnHqqL87/s1600/kaly-5885.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnRRhY7zL36dqQDFtK4zlLnmvV1YPniZcHI68pdo_t1G01Q3LfmktDgopJUyHV4awQZEDRcJ3BlYg2oFdE0H_3XMo2A_TEQgKrITQQUpp9lzj_LppbG6xfN5z-C4fRG2-KqnHqqL87/s400/kaly-5885.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My hardest send on rainy last day - Punto Caramelo 8a+. Click this to enjoy it more.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpbWgXu8cDIao2hJplHw-0tmzsRNM5PKpWuc86TYZ0REDlCIeUb7Qa6tkpiIADFyvlzaW_1LXpFN_5NYE4Ua-0pkRNPVBtNvgnAwLvsL7mD2KAqTvdzi2sXK0PPYinpfTB8lM8pZVg/s1600/kaly-224246.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpbWgXu8cDIao2hJplHw-0tmzsRNM5PKpWuc86TYZ0REDlCIeUb7Qa6tkpiIADFyvlzaW_1LXpFN_5NYE4Ua-0pkRNPVBtNvgnAwLvsL7mD2KAqTvdzi2sXK0PPYinpfTB8lM8pZVg/s1600/kaly-224246.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Danny celebrates</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV8x7F_B_9AUO3Hy94mTY9vvtz50bIWvpg-chp-Orj2wCqDcooEr0a7_ZUTEmQqWCQ2bqf0SWf5UEylredVy-2jf4LI0HASf59uEbs9gqI6C4ZI5sQ68ntjeW4UI11fv8VMNk8Max1/s1600/matt1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV8x7F_B_9AUO3Hy94mTY9vvtz50bIWvpg-chp-Orj2wCqDcooEr0a7_ZUTEmQqWCQ2bqf0SWf5UEylredVy-2jf4LI0HASf59uEbs9gqI6C4ZI5sQ68ntjeW4UI11fv8VMNk8Max1/s400/matt1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Matt Nance, Rendez With Platon 8a+/b</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lee, St Saavas 7b+ onsight</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRyOdYEmi_ibkdGGae4l3do3FUzikLORUkBTZuXDHNZdb9JIvDY_Nzp7ZHN_6yWoO006UIO-1frBzYcGfCbr7kARqQywlQp3nL8e_HGhRCr_k15K-s7n6rBOwoYTMyb94F3ZU3T3dY/s400/lee-sam-danny.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Team Oz: Lee, Sam, Danny</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX1bmUQxzeqCx9qxmLTQY493kATyczQaDsuTEeTczGfooeneOwIeJyzovVksGvTRqBbW-d9X08NV6iJkHBd2BktgeCLI4RHg_ARsp7minSUNJQxvbEVKqW-BC-GBdbYkd6MjAMVEBD/s1600/kaly-5688.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX1bmUQxzeqCx9qxmLTQY493kATyczQaDsuTEeTczGfooeneOwIeJyzovVksGvTRqBbW-d9X08NV6iJkHBd2BktgeCLI4RHg_ARsp7minSUNJQxvbEVKqW-BC-GBdbYkd6MjAMVEBD/s400/kaly-5688.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thanks Kaly.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Gotta love the big trips away. Kaly 2011 was one to remember. These trips fuel my psyche for training hard at home, devising interesting local projects to keep motivation high, and working hard for $$$ to fund the next adventure.<br />
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Bring on the next one.</div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><br/><br/>Lee Cujes</div>Lee Cujeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-61935969108452794882011-11-02T18:59:00.000+11:002011-11-02T18:59:28.898+11:00Video: Upskill Kaly 2.0<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
This video is a memoir of our final Kalymnos climbing camp of 2011. Enjoy!
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="242" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/31449931?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="430"></iframe>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggR2KNedP4IxTwOAlxU09DWWK_EJRRMc-i7tcQEeMDGXPpkz7Ld8GCcj5eBAdyv41xDEglx5yGhSTuknGOtr25w9UrLoi3IfOxsCBJvDc_YggK945ZbiZvhXpcX_kyMgFCc882m2_6/s1600/upskill-chop.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggR2KNedP4IxTwOAlxU09DWWK_EJRRMc-i7tcQEeMDGXPpkz7Ld8GCcj5eBAdyv41xDEglx5yGhSTuknGOtr25w9UrLoi3IfOxsCBJvDc_YggK945ZbiZvhXpcX_kyMgFCc882m2_6/s200/upskill-chop.png" width="100" /></a></td></tr>
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</div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><br/><br/>Lee Cujes</div>Lee Cujeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.com0