tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.comments2023-07-23T10:29:26.718+10:00Upskill ClimbingLee Cujeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.comBlogger179125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-91491736408516088242021-12-05T08:44:34.905+11:002021-12-05T08:44:34.905+11:00We have recently analysed hundreds of climber'...We have recently analysed hundreds of climber's data on thecrag.com and arrived at a "slope" for the climbing grade scale of ~2.2, meaning that each increment in grade takes, on average, 2.2 times as many attempts/sessions, assuming the climbing doesn't get better in the mean time:<br /><br />https://arxiv.org/abs/2111.08140Alexeihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05812130662984932314noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-12100806496191922672020-12-21T21:48:21.039+11:002020-12-21T21:48:21.039+11:00I've never been good at slopers, but these hol...I've never been good at slopers, but these holds are great training.<br /><br />I have realized that muscles are stupid. They adjust to the force, rate of force production, range of motion, and ANGLE that you train them at. So train on slopers where you are made to produce finger flexion force with the fingers opened to whatever the angle of the hold is.<br /><br />So I am persevering with the BM slopers and am seeing results. The BM 6c session has slopers included, and I have been slowly progressing using assistance bands. Dropping the band down by one karabiner every two weeks until I was close enough to doing it unassisted.<br /><br />Yesterday, after a full BM workout, I put the band back up to where I began back in September and stepped into it. I could hang the 35 degree slopers for 15 seconds with reasonable ease. Training works!Animalhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11224753767013946688noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-21012484023108056272019-01-21T21:37:32.080+11:002019-01-21T21:37:32.080+11:00Hello Lee,
I´m giving a talk on corrosion and hyd...Hello Lee,<br /><br />I´m giving a talk on corrosion and hydrogen embrittlement at the beginning of May in Aachen, Germany. Your pictures on this page represent a really nice example of the hidden corrosion, wich is the most dangerous one. May I use some of the pictures in the introduction? I would of course put the link to this page and to the thaitanium projekt below.<br /><br />Thank you in advance!<br />Valentin<br />Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10239804239379532983noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-19326224788327161342016-10-28T11:03:40.083+11:002016-10-28T11:03:40.083+11:00Hi Ringgo. Ramset's best epoxy is 801. It will...Hi Ringgo. Ramset's best epoxy is 801. It will certainly do the job, and I have bolted entire sectors with this glue. It is however very sticky and has the consistency of honey, so you need lots of rags. Hilti RE-500 is better and easier to work with.Lee Cujeshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-69405668818610071782016-10-28T10:41:07.488+11:002016-10-28T10:41:07.488+11:00Hi...what would you recommend for the best epoxy g...Hi...what would you recommend for the best epoxy glue from Ramset?Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10624227004928704658noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-88595752729598596242015-03-04T20:35:14.775+11:002015-03-04T20:35:14.775+11:00Hey Lee
We need new kneepads...
our old ones have...Hey Lee<br /><br />We need new kneepads...<br />our old ones have worn out...<br />please say you still make them...<br />how can I contact you...?Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04281162471534673826noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-90916725651694722172014-07-11T00:38:25.233+10:002014-07-11T00:38:25.233+10:00Now I finally understand why I have so much troubl...Now I finally understand why I have so much trouble with the 45s! I measured the angle on my board. Everything is mounted perpendicular to the wall but somewhere along the line with the wood there is a difference that creates a 2 degree problem. My slopers are 47s! I can hang with one arm on the 35s (37s) but seriously struggle on the 45s. Will definitely try out your sessions to see what progress I can make.<br /><br />My personal best is a 2 second hang on a cool, dry day. Will probably improve in the summer with some humidity!Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-70125051057687628312013-11-29T10:11:34.476+11:002013-11-29T10:11:34.476+11:00Thanks Buachaille. I've been wondering about t...Thanks Buachaille. I've been wondering about those bolts for years. They do seem to last amazingly well for galvanized, but perhaps we've just been lucky to always encounter them in low corrosive environments?Lee Cujeshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-80531608688974707142013-11-29T09:48:15.164+11:002013-11-29T09:48:15.164+11:00The French ring bolts mentioned in the text are ma...The French ring bolts mentioned in the text are manufactured specifically for FFME and distributed to their equippers. <br />I purchased some in Paris 20 years ago and placed them back home in Scotland. They are still in great condition. They are hot dipped galvanised steel surprisingly, not stainless.Buachaillehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10400869918066064772noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-71159346595391696542013-11-29T09:47:40.201+11:002013-11-29T09:47:40.201+11:00The French ring bolts mentioned in the text are ma...The French ring bolts mentioned in the text are manufactured specifically for FFME and distributed to their equippers. <br />I purchased some in Paris 20 years ago and placed them back home in Scotland. They are still in great condition. They are hot dipped galvanised steel surprisingly, not stainless.Buachaillehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10400869918066064772noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-25463049977997720982013-11-28T04:39:55.857+11:002013-11-28T04:39:55.857+11:00Thanks. I use that Fixe setup a lot too, and have ...Thanks. I use that Fixe setup a lot too, and have added it in to my article on lower-off's: http://www.upskillclimbing.com/2013/11/climbing-anchors-ideal-sport-route.htmlLee Cujeshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-47133298237220278712013-11-25T19:40:16.403+11:002013-11-25T19:40:16.403+11:00I miss what in my oppinnion is the best solution (...I miss what in my oppinnion is the best solution (bolted or glued):<br /><br />http://www.techrock.es/index.php?mmod=shoptr&file=details&rID=208<br /><br />http://www.techrock.es/index.php?mmod=shoptr&file=details&rID=214<br /><br />Moderate visual impact, no rope twist, lifespan good (ring spin), single clip safety.<br /><br />bolted one can be replaced, but both can last for very long timesantllors.comhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/18031039894995896780noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-37647363740506781562013-11-25T09:19:54.621+11:002013-11-25T09:19:54.621+11:00Great work! Been talking about this a lot lately. ...Great work! Been talking about this a lot lately. Some great infoAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12602614791439082298noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-487823984491009112013-11-07T20:26:37.207+11:002013-11-07T20:26:37.207+11:00Hey Mike! It was hard! And good! Reminded me of th...Hey Mike! It was hard! And good! Reminded me of the sloping edges on Spurt Wall in the Grampians.Lee Cujeshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-53410073885994777962013-11-07T08:05:39.195+11:002013-11-07T08:05:39.195+11:00Glad you did Fuck the Law, I bolted it and woke th...Glad you did Fuck the Law, I bolted it and woke the next morning sick and couldn't any of the top half, belayed nathan on something and fell asleep for 2 hours, then did it. All I could do for the rest of the trip was sleep/belaymikl lawhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04021990508834261342noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-35036732909982535012013-10-28T06:00:29.129+11:002013-10-28T06:00:29.129+11:00Thanks for the comments!Thanks for the comments!Lee Cujeshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02299605594628708238noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-11817264738317693082013-09-07T23:42:34.927+10:002013-09-07T23:42:34.927+10:00Hi Lee,
in your hangboard log, what do the +/- fi...Hi Lee,<br /><br />in your hangboard log, what do the +/- figures mean after each set?<br /><br />I've just discovered your blog in my quest to push into the 7s, loving all your advice!<br /><br />Cheers,<br /><br />TomAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13043954092275734221noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-85058519806090576962013-09-07T23:41:24.604+10:002013-09-07T23:41:24.604+10:00This comment has been removed by the author.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13043954092275734221noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-7789261029970389352013-05-08T02:15:07.678+10:002013-05-08T02:15:07.678+10:00Check out this heated chalk bag that solves this v...Check out this heated chalk bag that solves this very problem of having poor circulation to your hands, or on those cold or shaded days. The chalk bag has an integrated heating circuit that you can turn on and off when ever you want!... http://www.varmclimbing.comIsaac Paulsenhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07450815754865273594noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-10820736609343524532013-04-17T20:23:28.216+10:002013-04-17T20:23:28.216+10:00Beerwah: The Taipan of the North. The Zion of the ...Beerwah: The Taipan of the North. The Zion of the South. The Grater of the them all!Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02281904593291568965noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-48623912533852441992013-04-13T19:10:57.013+10:002013-04-13T19:10:57.013+10:00Nice video!! Congrats!! I like your blog... =)
ww...Nice video!! Congrats!! I like your blog... =)<br /><br />www.climbforever.comAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14143831203833178069noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-53655748117211665262013-04-05T23:22:05.994+11:002013-04-05T23:22:05.994+11:00I'm surprised that everyone seems to say that ...I'm surprised that everyone seems to say that a 4WD is necessary to get up to Fred's. The hike up from where you can drive any old car to is just about an hour, and the last part from the 4WD parking is the hardest part of the walk anyway. Even though a 4WD is preferable, a day trip is definitely possible without one.Knut Bjoernebyehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10573247395367406242noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-65817165663461252802013-01-09T16:49:30.832+11:002013-01-09T16:49:30.832+11:00Re The 12mm Dyna bolts - make sure people know tha...Re The 12mm Dyna bolts - make sure people know that the sleeve (12mm) needs to fit into the bolt hanger hole and thus you need 12mm hangers not 10mm - something I have seen before.cragrathttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10205507011269225951noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-24437580467033542612013-01-04T09:06:07.635+11:002013-01-04T09:06:07.635+11:00That's well said Lee. The investment should no...That's well said Lee. The investment should now be going into maintenance.Davehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03845159572649723790noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9064672588559529982.post-13262486102032673022012-11-20T05:28:20.903+11:002012-11-20T05:28:20.903+11:00About time! I have to live through your climbing b...About time! I have to live through your climbing blog these days. Get out there and do more : )Unknownhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07324074781979285839noreply@blogger.com