Fiesta De Los Biceps

I've been thinking about and wanting to do this route for about 10 years! It must rank as one of the world's most famous multipitches. Located in Mallos de Riglos in Spain, Fiesta De Los Biceps 7a (23) is breathtaking.

It's primarily known for its super overhanging climbing featuring some of the biggest holds on any climb, anywhere.

And yesterday with our two other friends Alex and Magali, Sam and I completed this ~300m high route. I was not dissapointed. Wow wow wow!

I onsighted all the pitches, which was really nice to do, but it was a truly amazing effort for Sam. Sam ordinarily climbs around the 6b (20) level, with a harder pitch now and then. She often prefers the lower angle, more technical climbing rather that steep, thuggy routes. So if we take our climbing levels into account, for Sam to get up a route like this is probably the equivalent of me trying to climb a multipitch of 7c+, 8a, 8b+, 8a+, 8a+, 8a+, 8a, 7c+. I would be annihilated.  Of course, following me up the route was an 'any means necessary' affair. Grab the quickdraws, rest, do whatever you can do to keep moving quickly. Speed climbing tactics. Sam rates it as "the hardest thing I've physically done in my life". I'm super proud :)

I'll let the pictures do the talking...

Los Fiesta Del Biceps topo
It's about 5 degrees when we arrive, the wind is howling, and Sam is looking dubious!
The route climbs the tower in the sun on the far right.
It looks quite tropical here. I assure you it's not.
I am wearing every piece of clothing I had. My feet are frozen blocks of flesh.
The first belay (left) is not inspiring on this megaclassic. I presume most people skip it.
Assorted other bits of historical interest (right). Thankfully, the gear got better higher up.
Sam follows the highly traversing second pitch.
The village of Riglos from high on the wall

Sam and I at one of the belays. © Alexandre Lemieux
Me on the crux 7a pitch. Quite technical and delicate. Easy to fall off.
© Alexandre Lemieux
Me on the crux 7a pitch. © Alexandre Lemieux
Me on the crux 7a pitch. © Alexandre Lemieux
Still smiling!

Our friends Alex and Magali finish off the crux pitch
Sam follows
Lee and Magali share a belay.
Spot the line of climbing!
Sam seconds one of the very overhung pitches while the German team climbs below.
Looking across to another team on a different route on the wall.
A sense of scale. A German party of three in the background.

Sam tries to dislodge a giant cobble!
Photo of the day! Alex cuts loose on the final overhanging pitch. AWESOME!
© Magali Lequient
Success! Sam, Magali and Alex celebrate a successful climb. To the bar!
Sunset on the towering walls of Riglos

3 comments:

Bruce said...

Awesome stuff guys! Amazing effort Sam! Must go there one day!

Lee Cujes said...

Thanks Bruce, it was soooooo good! :)

Patrick Simon said...

Hell Yeah! Friggin nice place to climb guys. Thanks for the break from work. The best part is that you did the crux pitch - with back pack!