Ahh, the infamous rest day. Kirsty, May and Kirill had heard about a nice day hike. Just a few hours. Good-o. See ya guys, have a nice walk. Seven hours later, three broken bodies trudge up the stairs of the Upskill apartment with tales of endless scree slopes and spiky bushes. Glad I stayed at home. Must say, I'm not a fan of hiking unless it leads to a supercrag. Here's a couple pics from the adventure...
|Kirill points the way|
|Walking the endless ridgeline|
|Kirill dispatches the namesake of the sector, Bikini 6a (18)|
|The namesake of the sector, El Delfin 7c+ (28). I had a quick flash attempt and fell on the final moves. Darn!|
Kirsty was also psyched for steep tufas so got on for a lash, working out most of the route except the weird and awkward exit moves through a slot. It's weird, you'll have to look at the pic.
|La Gatera 7a (23). Kirill climbing. Photo approved clothing FAIL. |
The route climbs through the slot you can see at the top of the roof.
While all that was happening, Sam and May were sampling the more sane 6a to 6b routes on the other side of the arch.
|May on the strangely graded 6a/b route which traverses the edge of Delfin arch.|
|May cleaned up her earlier proj La Raton 6a+ (19)|
"I've made more progress in the last couple of days than I have in the last couple of years!"
|Kirsty techs out the blank crux section of El Raton 6a+ (19) for the tick. Bueno|
Kirill cleaned up the Unnamed 6b+ (21) which Kirsty also cleanly led. This route has a steepening section using opposing sidepulls, so you need to have good body position to make it work. Foot placement is key. Great to see such success on this. Before leaving the area, Kirill sussed the beta, and then ticked off La Maldicion 6b (20) on Furia Latina. Great morning all round!
After lunch by the water and scene of Kirill's DWS traverse (dissapointingly without splashdown), we shot up to Criminal Tango. This sector hosts the most popular 6b+ (21) in Rodellar and after looking at Roxy la Palmera it's not hard to see why. This is the biggest tufa ride at the grade in Rodellar. Overhanging, huge holds and crazy 3D climbing. The top section has a single, huge tufa which sits about two feet proud of the wall like a giant Amazonian boa-constrictor. The best way to climb this is to throw a leg over and slap your way up it while yelling "YEEHAR!!!"
Kirill was going well on the onsight when he hit the big snake up top. As he edged up the fearsome beast he started shaking. It's runout up there, especially from the last bolt to the anchors. "Watch him May, here we go." I could see the possibility for a huge winger. Kirill was gibbering and you could just tell how pumped he was laying off and trying to get into a position to clip the anchors, about five metres out from the last bolt. Just when I thought he was off for sure, he transferred from the straddle position to the left side of the tufa and jammed his whole body against it for a rest. YES!! Pull rope, clip, collapse. Awesome!
|Kirill firing in the clip on the lower section of Roxy la Palmera 6b+ (21) on his successful onsight.|
|La Raton 6a+ (19)|
|La Raton 6a+ (19)|